Boost

[AWD TURBO!]

i was running 15 psi & wrx top mount in my turbo 88 gl10 it went 9 months the ring glands gave up from pre det & cheep gas i also have a pile of bad turbos

 

i'm now playing with a modded hi comp ea82t @ 12 psi low with 380cc injectors td04..... its been going for over a year now and i like what it has to give me

[TheSubaruJunkie]

I ran 11psi in my RX (has the same MPFI EA82T your XT has) and this is what happend:

 

 

 

 

This is with an intercooler installed, and a Bypass Valve installed running 11psi.

 

I rebuilt that engine using the block from a Non-Turbo SPFI EA82 which increases the compression ratio. I then left the turbo at stock 7psi and kept my same Intercooler & Bypass Valve.

 

The rebuilt engine with SPFI block and 7psi was much quicker than the stock EA82T block and 11psi. Your ECU wont let you go much higher than 11psi without cutting the fuel, so if you are looking for 20+ PSI you are working with the wrong engine.

 

With that being said, listen to Gen Disorder, he may sound like he's harping on you but he sounds like this to everybody... even his friends. We know what we're talking about when we say "dont waste your time or money, you'll regret it later"

 

Have fun with your XT.

-Brian

[WJM]

I reliably put down 165hp/225tq (25% loss that would be about 205hp/280tq at the crank) to all 4 wheels for a long time and that engine started out with 166k miles on it and finally died when some idiot ran it out of coolant. I put about 40k miles on it. JWX put who knows how many miles on it. Then I got it back again and put some more miles on it. Then JWX gave it away to an idiot.

It saw track days (road course), 100's of autox runs, lots of illegal street racing and many more highway pulls that resulted in the speedo needle being well past the last indicated speed, all within my time. I dont know what all JWX and idiot did with it, but it lasted fine until the idiot ran it out of coolant.

[WJM]

PS: If you want an engine to hate, try the EJ25D, not the EJ22.

 

Shows what you know.

 

Once the updated 11044AA610 gasket is installed, it is just as reliable as any other EJ engine out there.

 

Mine has 319,427 miles on it with out fail. ALL original internals, but with the new gasket put on at 200,2xx miles.

 

I thought the EJ25D had a similar head gasket problem as the EA82T.

 

Not related one bit.

 

The EJ25D had several inferior gaskets for it until subaru pulled out all the stops and used a real deal multi layer metal gasket same as found on the newer EJ20# turbo engines and EJ257/EJ255.

 

The EA82 does not have a headgasket problem. Follow the FSM and it will last as designed under its intended operating conditions, just like any other engine.

[GeneralDisorder]

Of course you should know what you're doing if you attempt mods. I've been chewed out a few times here for stating that to those that don't have the knowledge necessary. Most seem like kids that want to make a broken down old car go fast without much work. Ain't gonna happen.

 

That's pretty much the key. And "much work" is a long, drawn-out process of learning. What I'm mostly saying is that you SHOULD NOT learn on the EA82T. It is not forgiving.

 

Yes - people like presslab and a few others can get decent power from the EA82T. I could do it if I wanted to - I just don't have the inclination when I have EJ22T's around that make as much or more power in stock form and will happly boost to 20+ psi with almost no modifications - and will do it reliably. For me to build a reliable 250 HP EA82T would take thousands of $$$ and time that I don't have. For what? I can get that easily from an EJ with less work and a lot less money.

 

Read some stuff, try some stuff, blow some stuff up. Sounds like fun!

 

Yep - that's how all of us started. Lots and lots, and LOTS of reading.

 

Minimum requirements for "safe" (which is relative to if the bottom end will take it and that's no gaurantee as you see) boost IMO:

 

1. Complete replacement of all cooling system components. And not just the radiator and heater core hoses. Water pump bypass hose, coolant lines for the turbo, manifold coolant hoses, radiator, etc.

 

2. New head gaskets, rebuilt heads, and resurfaced block. If you are going over 15 psi - o-ring the block and have ARP make you a set of studs (not cheap ).

 

3. New/reman injectors.

 

4. Intercooler with recirc valve.

 

5. Oil cooler.

 

6. Wideband O2 sensor.

 

7. Exhaust gas temp probes with digital readouts and alarms. Under each head.

 

8. Digital coolant temp gauge.

 

After all that you can *start* to play with it..... no gaurantee's on a used bottom end with over 200k on it though. Probably still end in disaster.

 

As you can see the entry cost (I just listed several thousand $$ in case you don't know what that stuff costs) is prohibitive. And the returns on investment are not there.

 

GD

Edited March 17, 2011 by GeneralDisorder

[ernst82]

Well its better to learn and blow the engine on my xt then my wrx lol. Thanks for the all the info guys. But dont worry I leaving my boost at the stock level. But like I did say I am going to put better proformance dual fan and a bigger radiator if I can find one.

[Ricearu]

I thought the EJ25D had a similar head gasket problem as the EA82T.

 

just buy a used (low mile ish) ej25d do the gaskets, with subaru MLM gaskets, and buy a conversion and stuff that into the car. its 165hp and really perky engine. I love the one in my forester, just has piston slap till it warms up. Last week I made a run to home depot, then to work, 140miles with a 16ft car hauler and it didn't complain.

 

[Twitch de la Brat]

Shows what you know.

 

Once the updated 11044AA610 gasket is installed, it is just as reliable as any other EJ engine out there.

 

Mine has 319,427 miles on it with out fail. ALL original internals, but with the new gasket put on at 200,2xx miles.

 

Lol.

I just meant the number of people who don't know what they're doing and blow up/destroy

their engine, therefore leading to a high number of people who dislike the engine.

I know of very few people that have destroyed an EJ22, in comparison to the number that have cooked/killed an EJ25D.

 

A similar situation to what the EA82T faces, just not as drastic of cost or changes to make it reliable.

 

Twitch

[ernst82]

There is a soldier here on fort lewis who just destoryed his 2011 sti engine by being stuiped last week. He just got bought it, not paid off....

[brumby420]

There is a soldier here on fort lewis who just destoryed his 2011 sti engine by being stuiped last week. He just got bought it, not paid off....

 

unfortunetly ill bet the warranty didnt cover that. no coverage for stupid LOL

[WJM]

Lol.

I just meant the number of people who don't know what they're doing and blow up/destroy

their engine, therefore leading to a high number of people who dislike the engine.

I know of very few people that have destroyed an EJ22, in comparison to the number that have cooked/killed an EJ25D.

 

A similar situation to what the EA82T faces, just not as drastic of cost or changes to make it reliable.

 

Twitch

 

in that case, I'd have to agree.

[rumblee]

unfortunately, the aftermarket performance industry has made uneducated (in the automotive realm) consumers believe they can throw a huge exhaust a fmic, loud bov and crank the boost to achieve great numbers. Reality is usually a far cry from what marketing conveys. The truth is, making power comes down to cylinder pressure. Some engines can handle more than others. When you add more air (upping boost pressure) you've got to have the fuel there or the engine will go lean and detonate. Nothing will kill a forced induction engine faster than detonation. This engine doesn't have a great head design so it is more prone to detonation. It doesn't have a great cooling system. Not being able to keep the block and heads cool leads to detonation... Take the time to learn how a forced induction engine (maybe start with the fundamentals of the internal combustion engine if you haven't yet) works. It's great to know how all the parts work together and what can be modified to create different results. Once you understand what goes where and does what it makes it much easier to understand what should be and can be modified to make a car perform more how you want it to.

[WJM]

unfortunately, the aftermarket performance industry has made uneducated (in the automotive realm) consumers believe they can throw a huge exhaust a fmic, loud bov and crank the boost to achieve great numbers. Reality is usually a far cry from what marketing conveys. The truth is, making power comes down to cylinder pressure. Some engines can handle more than others. When you add more air (upping boost pressure) you've got to have the fuel there or the engine will go lean and detonate. Nothing will kill a forced induction engine faster than detonation. This engine doesn't have a great head design so it is more prone to detonation. It doesn't have a great cooling system. Not being able to keep the block and heads cool leads to detonation... Take the time to learn how a forced induction engine (maybe start with the fundamentals of the internal combustion engine if you haven't yet) works. It's great to know how all the parts work together and what can be modified to create different results. Once you understand what goes where and does what it makes it much easier to understand what should be and can be modified to make a car perform more how you want it to.

 

Finally, some sense.