bgambino Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 So I bought this 98 OB wagon 2.5 automatic Now...when it starts,,,you would always here that sound...like when you just changed the oil and the pressure needed to build up? Not sure if it is the main bearings or what...but its due to the lack of built up oil pressure But this car did it always ...unless it was still warm In fact, on its maiden run,,,i noticed that at idle in drive, the oil light would flicker...i said oh crap! I bought it for a song so i expected anything I changed the oil to 20/50 and no light well...a few weeks later, theres a heavy oil leak from behind the t belt cover ends up one of the cam seals pushed out some and was leaking so i do a complete t belt/pulleys/wp/seals...and here's the thing I pulled the oil pump off to replace o-ring and make sure screws are tight behind the oil pump Well...a few were a bit loose and one was backed out several turns so i blue loctite them all in I never understood what this plate was all about and the screws...still dont,,and dont really care But guess what? The oil pressure when the car was off must have been drainning out becasue of this,,,because now...absolutely no knocking sound at cold start up!!! I'd ask if this is the reason but it has to be...I did nothing else Needless to say I was quite relieved...and i learned something new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Thanks for your informative post. Fixing those seals And the pump seal you gained an engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yep, seen that quite a few times, unfortunately usually with the opposite results. Good save! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 That is interesting. Especially since my 2001 Forester with 106k is suddenly using a quart of oil every 2 months....and my timing belt is due to be changed now anyway. I will definitely be checking out that oil pump and the plate and bolts while I am in there! Thanks for the post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 is this an issue on the MY98+ cars? when I did my oil seal I never bothered to pull the pump and I never had any issues with it with the 36K I put on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 If you search here, or ask here about "resealing" a 2.5 folks will tell you to pull the oil pump and chack those screws. Most of us find one or two loose. Most Loctite them - I just usually tighten them. BTW this also leads to the discussion usually of whether to install the crank seal into the oil pump then put it over the crank. Or to install the oil pump on the crank then install the crank seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 20-w50 is also not the best choice, most of your wear is on startup, and trying to pump that super thick oil is just making it worse, If you've fixed your leaks go back to 10-w30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 1324, this is an issue on all EJ's really, since they all have the same oil pump setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted March 18, 2011 Author Share Posted March 18, 2011 BTW this also leads to the discussion usually of whether to install the crank seal into the oil pump then put it over the crank. Or to install the oil pump on the crank then install the crank seal. Once I thought...gee...this would be so much easier to put the crank seal into the oil pump while i had it on the bench...so i did Come to find out...for some reason I had a heck of a time getting it back in place correctly...the circular spring (not sure what it is called) inside the seal kept coming out when i would try to put the pump over the crank shaft....you wouldnt think it should...but it did I dont do it that way any longer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 A neat video for how an eccentric gear oil pump works. http://www.motoetc.com/home/2010/03/eccentric-oil-pump/ To expand on that. This design needs to e closed in tightly on both sides in order for the pressure to build properly. The backing plate on the pump is what creates the "enclosure". So if it gets loose the oil will "bleed out" through the gap between the rotors and the backing plate. I will definitely be checking out that oil pump and the plate and bolts while I am in there! Thanks for the post! The "plate" is on the inside, and will not cause oil to leak externally. Oil being pushed out from behind the plate goes back into the crankcase. is this an issue on the MY98+ cars? when I did my oil seal I never bothered to pull the pump and I never had any issues with it with the 36K I put on the car.This is a potential issue on every EJ series engine. The screws on my pump were tight. But the expansion rates of the two different metals (aluminum and steel) that the pump is composed of, mixed with engine vibration, can cause the screws to loosen and back out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Ok, good to know that isn't the source of my oil loss. Thx for the clarification. Good post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 thats a nice site I've always wondered how the oil was pumped.. but I have a question.. if the oil all drains back to the pan how can the motor crank so slow with thick oil? Does the oil move that quick up the pickup tube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Typically it doesn't drain back. The pump will in a sense hydro-lock with the engine off, and only a small amount if any will flow back into the pan. This assumes the Anti drain back valve in the filter is working correctly. But these are a very efficient design and do move quite a bit of volume. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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