bgambino Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 98 outback wagon auto. Bought to flip Have done a fair amount on it When I got it I noticed a definite delayed "reverse" engagement I did a drain and refill and used the trans-x thinking it might help it did not...even after 800 miles did another drain and fill as the fluid was not very clean looking and hoped it would help Been using it as my daily driver for 2 months to make sure all is okay with everything else before i sell it Last week at work i go out at noon and no reverse...sort of made a small sound like it was going into reverse but nothing when pressing on gas...maybe just a slight sound drove around town...got back and reverse was working Did another drain and refill (each time is about a gallon) And the same since...cold start and no reverse...warms up and is back Yesterday and today tho...even after warm...no reverse interestingly tho...just now when i got home...i backed in from the road (down the driveway---downhill)...had it in reverse and coasting...give it a little gas and seems to work---definitely pushed the car faster But when almost stoped on flat ground...nothing (more of a load) So perhaps it is slipping... Is there ANY fix for this rather than some kind of rebuild? Maybe an "easy" fix for the tranny shop? probably not,,,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Could be a shift solenoid at the least. I'd just drop in a used trans. Plenty to go 'round out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Could be a shift solenoid at the least. I'd just drop in a used trans. Plenty to go 'round out there. oh...it is fine in all forward gears...shifts totally normal I am afraid of getting a used one with its own problem...or with t bind I dont think i am going to get any miracle answers...but hopeful Whats involved in getting the tranny out? procedure? I will be working on my back with ramps,,,ughhhh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Ramps should work fine. You want at least about 18" of clearance under the car to get the trans out. Removal is pretty straightforward. You'll have to remove the exhaust system, unhook the shift cable and electrical connections on the trans. Remove the driveshaft, unbolt the mount, unbolt the bell housing and torque converter then you can lower it out with a jack. Make a plate out of 2x4"s or a sheet of plywood cut to fit about the size of the trans pan, and place that between the pan and the head of the jack to avoid damaging the pan. A transmission jack adapter helps immensely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted March 20, 2011 Author Share Posted March 20, 2011 Ramps should work fine. You want at least about 18" of clearance under the car to get the trans out. Removal is pretty straightforward. You'll have to remove the exhaust system, unhook the shift cable and electrical connections on the trans. Remove the driveshaft, unbolt the mount, unbolt the bell housing and torque converter then you can lower it out with a jack. Make a plate out of 2x4"s or a sheet of plywood cut to fit about the size of the trans pan, and place that between the pan and the head of the jack to avoid damaging the pan. A transmission jack adapter helps immensely. what about the axle shafts??? How to get them pulled out for clearance? do you take the shift lever off from inside the car? and also some linkages below oh crap...i hate the idea of this So there is some kind of tranny adapter i can buy for my floor jack? rather than buying a transmission jack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logic23 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 These trannys rarely fail so odds are that you l get a good one. Changing the tail cone if it has torquebind is pretty easy. To remove tranny is not that hard....unbolt and take it out the bottom. Ive also taken them out attached to the engine. I put several straps around both engine and tail of trans then using an engine hoist take them both out. The axles are held in with roll pins...knock them out and push axles off the stubs. getting the shifter cable off the selector can be tricky if its rusty. does your trans have the spin on filter? some 98's have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 These trannys rarely fail so odds are that you l get a good one. Changing the tail cone if it has torquebind is pretty easy.To remove tranny is not that hard....unbolt and take it out the bottom. Ive also taken them out attached to the engine. I put several straps around both engine and tail of trans then using an engine hoist take them both out. The axles are held in with roll pins...knock them out and push axles off the stubs. getting the shifter cable off the selector can be tricky if its rusty. does your trans have the spin on filter? some 98's have them. no spin on filter I AM concerned about holding the tranny as it comes out i just have a floor jack...??? ALSO----i thought the axle shafts could not be slid off that easy...is ther enough play that they will actually slide enough to come off the splined shaft on the tranny?....i was afraid something at the wheel end needed to be disassembled con someone confirm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 The shafts will come loose from the axle stubs when you knock the roll pins out, then you can slide them off as you lower the trans out of the car. I thought harbor freight had the jack adapters but I don't see one on their website. Northern tool has one though. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332755_200332755 Fits into your standard 1" jack plate hole. It makes the jack a bit "tall", but it helps a ton with lowering and raising the trans into position without dropping it. Throw the chain over the top of the trans and tighten it down. You want the car to be ~24" or better off the ground to use one of those. The shift cable just has some little clip deal that holds it to the lever on the trans, no work to be done inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 1st of all, I AM NOT an expert,:-\ I did my first auto tranny swap in my driveway on an SVX. 4 jackstands, searsjack no adapter,a sissor type jack for the rear of the tranny, basic hand tools, those racheting tydowns, some bungee cords, assorted lengths of 2x4s, some plywood cause the driveway is gravel. Be sure to drain both tranny and FRONT diff, as I forgot and turned tranny on its side spilling that nasty stuff into the gravel:eek: getting to smell it for the rest of the job. All info in previous post are correct, patience and being careful are your friends, this is not an easy job but its not to bad either, cheers:)......G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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