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fuseible link box


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I don't see the reason why to do this? The Fuseable links are just pieces of wire which complete the circuit, swapping it to a fuse box is not gonna change anything as the Fuses are still completing the circuit in the same way. You could replace the links with 12ga. wire and spade connectors and it will still work just fine.

 

-Tom

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I don't see the reason why to do this? The Fuseable links are just pieces of wire which complete the circuit, swapping it to a fuse box is not gonna change anything as the Fuses are still completing the circuit in the same way. You could replace the links with 12ga. wire and spade connectors and it will still work just fine.

 

-Tom

 

Warning! Fusible links are not just ordinary pieces of wire. They are designed to carry a certain amount of current to protect the wiring they are spec'ed for. Using an ordinary wire in place of them is asking for big trouble if a short occurs.

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Warning! Fusible links are not just ordinary pieces of wire. They are designed to carry a certain amount of current to protect the wiring they are spec'ed for. Using an ordinary wire in place of them is asking for big trouble if a short occurs.

 

I learned something new today, I thought they were basic wires with a coating on them.

 

Thanks for pointing that out!

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I just replaced mine with a stereo type fuse.

4 10 gauge spade connectors (female ends) and a matching or comparable stereo fuse.

0608091112.jpg

 

Like that.

 

I cut a hole in the top of the fuse box cover just big enough for the wires to

pop through and and bent the fuse over the side to keep it out of the way.

No problems so far.

 

Twitch

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I don't see the reason why to do this? The Fuseable links are just pieces of wire which complete the circuit, swapping it to a fuse box is not gonna change anything as the Fuses are still completing the circuit in the same way. You could replace the links with 12ga. wire and spade connectors and it will still work just fine.

 

-Tom

 

Couple reasons, getting replacement fusible links can be hard or expensive. Getting replacement blade fuses is easy and cheap. If your upgrading your alternator, you need to get rid of the black fusible link any way, and put in an appropriate fuse for what the alternator is putting out. One of the big reasons to get rid of fusible links, is voltage drop. Fusible links are horriblely inefficient conductors and after yanking them out and replacing them with blade fuses, you can sometimes get a volt or two more at the fuse box and other constant-hot circuits. That translates to better running electronics, brighter lights, faster blower fan etc.

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Couple reasons, getting replacement fusible links can be hard or expensive.

 

Yup. The parts stores don't carry them and the black link at the dealer here in Vancouver was 6.50 plus tax. Not to mention they don't stock them so if you need one it would have to be ordered.

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Thats why I make it a point when at a wrecking yard to look in every black box for links. I probably have more than any dealer :rolleyes:

The black ones are harder to find tho, it seems like they only came in GL10's or turbo models.

Heres the specs from the FSM.

 

fusiblelinks-1.jpg

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Which fusible links would be replaced with what size of fuse? I think the green one is specified at 20A in my Chilton's manual, but the rest of them are not.

 

I just go off the wire size in the circuit, because thats what the fusible links protect, the wire itself, not the load(lights, fan etc.). I do this by looking at what size is leaving the fusible link and then use a table like this:

 

10ga. - 30amps

12ga. - 20amps

14ga. - 15amps

16ga. - 7.5amps

 

I based this off of a table like this one: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

So if you have a 14ga wire, just use a 15amp fuse and you should be OK.

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Thats why I make it a point when at a wrecking yard to look in every black box for links. I probably have more than any dealer :rolleyes:

The black ones are harder to find tho, it seems like they only came in GL10's or turbo models.

Heres the specs from the FSM.

 

fusiblelinks-1.jpg

 

me too, heh, happy hunting.

 

RV

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I just go off the wire size in the circuit, because thats what the fusible links protect, the wire itself, not the load(lights, fan etc.). I do this by looking at what size is leaving the fusible link and then use a table like this:

 

10ga. - 30amps

12ga. - 20amps

14ga. - 15amps

16ga. - 7.5amps

 

I based this off of a table like this one: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

So if you have a 14ga wire, just use a 15amp fuse and you should be OK.

I guess I really don't understand how you got this part:

 

10ga. - 30amps

12ga. - 20amps

14ga. - 15amps

16ga. - 7.5amps

 

I came up with different wire gauges according to the cross sectional area of the wires based on the link you gave me and the picture posed in this thread. I also don't see how you found the amperage rating for each gauge. Sorry for doing this to you, I just want to understand what I'm doing before I do it. Could you help me out?

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Those fuse sizes are based on the electrical code. It doesn't really apply to cars. Using those fuses will be safe, but may not work, as often conductors on cars are "overloaded" by the standards of the CEC/NEC.

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Bussman makes 40A, 50A, and 60A Fusible links that fit directly into the Loyale fusible link box without any modification. The 40A is green and is a direct replacement for the green fusible link. The 50A is red and directly replaced the red fusible link. The 60A is yellow and may be considered a little light for the black fusible link, but I've been running a 60A yellow Bussman link for a year now without any problems. I keep a spare of each in the glove box but have not needed them so far.

 

The part numbers are BP/FLF-40-RP (-50-RP & -60-RP). I bought them off the rack at AutoZone for about 3.50 each.

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Bussman makes 40A, 50A, and 60A Fusible links that fit directly into the Loyale fusible link box without any modification. The 40A is green and is a direct replacement for the green fusible link. The 50A is red and directly replaced the red fusible link. The 60A is yellow and may be considered a little light for the black fusible link, but I've been running a 60A yellow Bussman link for a year now without any problems. I keep a spare of each in the glove box but have not needed them so far.

 

The part numbers are BP/FLF-40-RP (-50-RP & -60-RP). I bought them off the rack at AutoZone for about 3.50 each.

 

They may fit, I just don't know if the amp rating on them is correct. According to my schematics, the green one is supposed to be a 20A fusible link. I guess my Chilton's manual could be wrong...won't be a first.

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