Danny88GL Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 saw an add on craigslist, $300. potential clutch problem... and has been sitting for a year and a half. Went over, popped in a new battery, hit it with a shot of starter fluid and it started right up. let off the clutch and it engaged back and forth. Offered her $200, she countered 275, i told her half way at 250 and she accepted (I was sold at 300 though). I got 2 year historic plates (no inspection nor emmissions yaye!, filled up the tank.. 200 miles later (getting excellent gas mileage) i'm still happy. 150k on the odometer. have service records, fuel pump replaced 5 or 10 years ago, clutch cable, intermediate pipe. Has the infamous ticking, i will probably switch to 20-50 and live with it. It's the 2wd but i'm cool with that, we only get about 2 weeks of real snow here in the dc area yearly. She doesn't like hills very much, and i think i notice some clutch slippage around 3 to 4k so i'm babying her for a while. Clutch pedal feels a little funny too, not on the floor but seems like it's lower than other sticks i've driven. I have to manually reseat the right headlight nightly though LOL what fixes that dialectic grease? also need to find some wiper blade refills small enough to fit in there.. or should i swap out the arms? So when it's clutch time, i guess the whole motor should be pulled, and do the timing belt at the same time? Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny88GL Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 had ti tighten down the altenator bracket it was rocking and knocking. probably need brake pads too. have the window sticker and epa gas milage thing too with the other records. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 I always recommend pull the engine when doing a clutch. do your timing belts and engine seals at the same time! It is possible the car still has it's riginal timing belt. don't be surprised if it breaks soon. when you have the engine out, i highly encourage you to replace the oil pump seals(pumps are never bad, but the seals suck inward and aerate the oil) and to also replace the cam tower o-rings. this should clear the lifter tick. these cars are relatively simple to work on. if you are not a mechanic, these cars are great to learn on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny88GL Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Yes, I'm guessing it never has been changed and it breaking definitely wouldn't surprise me. I made sure that I bought a non interference engine for my "historic" qualified search/purchase. WHat I did get surprised by was the brake shoe stopping material broke in half on me today in the rear right wheel. I'm not a mechanic but i've done a timing belt, chain, and a clutch before. I've read someone here say a good mechanic can get the engine out in an hour, so i'm really liking the simplicity factor of these subarooos, unlike "improved cars" that look like a snake pit under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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