johnceggleston Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 if the ''larger'' head gasket makes up for the .001? the difference, (i really have not been paying attention to the numbers) i would probably take a chance on it anyway. that's just me. but if you junk the heads you are out the machine shop money and the replacement money for the heads. i'd probably go for it. most of what you risk from here on out is labor and head gaskets. but , i would use this debacle as leverage with the shop to get better service and hopefully better prices in the future. especially if the heads fail. but even if the heads work out i would make a big deal of it with the shop. their work is risking your livelihood and your income. hopefully they can't be so secure in their business that they tell you to screw off. it sounds like you don't have a lot of choices in machine shops so take advantage of this situation and make it work for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 you wouldnt' be worried about the one thousandth or less below subaru's stated minimum i mentioned above? thanks all. I wouldn't worry about it - use the thicker head gasket for the 25D and call it a day. The pistons are never going to hit the head if the gasket is correct and the head surface is even remotely flat. And as long as there's no valve strike once it's timed (unlikely) then it's good to go. Remember that portions of the head surface are inside the combustion chamber already.... so you have smaller combustion chambers now.... not really an issue. The larger head gasket makes up for the pop-up pistons and nothing more. The head surface doesn't enter into the equation at all. It just needs to be flat and not stupidly below spec causeing a valve strike. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Where in WV are you Gary? I think you've said before but I can't remember. I know there is one place about a half hour west of me where the machinist has over 40 years in the business. He has done a few things here and there for the shop, and seems to be a knowledgeable and experienced machinist. Not sure how close the place is for you though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walczyk Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 I'm lapping heads and block for two ej25s right now. Its the best method, but most people don't have access to a lapping plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Fairtax - thanks, but i'm in Morgantown. if the ''larger'' head gasket makes up for the .001? the difference, I wouldn't worry about it - use the thicker head gasket for the 25D and call it a day. i'd typically give it a try. WJM said a Phase I block with Phase II heads had piston to head contact with the thin gasket. Thicker gasket and it was fine. Turning over by hand did not reveal the contact, so can't test. Did the heads get shaved too far to put me back in contact like WJM had? Probably not so I'm going to try it. An untouched head with thick gasket is 60 thousandths, I lost 12 - so I'm down to 48. The thin headgasket is 23 and doesn't work - so I still have somewhere between 0 and 25 thou to spare. I think I'm going to try it. hopefully they can't be so secure in their business that they tell you to screw off. it sounds like you don't have a lot of choices in machine shops so take advantage of this situation and make it work for you. i doubt they'll be very obliging. one problem with an economically depressed state is the number of complaints, lawsuits, abuse, and people trying to get something for nothing. you often just get lumped in with them...which is part of what i feel like i heard when i went in yesterday. i think i'll just do less head resurfacing as a result. The two Subaru dealers I asked are gasket slapping anyway without resurfacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) I wouldn't worry about it - use the thicker head gasket for the 25D and call it a day. The pistons are never going to hit the head if the gasket is correct and the head surface is even remotely flat. And as long as there's no valve strike once it's timed (unlikely) then it's good to go. checked on this post for another reason and thought i'd post back. engine ran fine and no issues. and i haven't been back to that machine shop since. thanks much to GD's help with the resurfacing thread. Edited May 1, 2013 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I surface heads every day and i get mirior surfaces have never seen one that bad yuck it cost me 60 $ each for cutter tips that are for aluminum alloy and there is 8 tips i also only cut half a thow at a time. and i will not cut any cast or deisel heads as they will dull my bitts is a very long learning curve to do heads. The 2.5d surface give me the most trubble i think the alloy was not very tight of molucles in the casting it likes to smear instead of cut so have to take very small passes and i put head in freezer to tighten up the molucules in the aluminum for better results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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