GeneralDisorder Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Split the block and install ACL race bearings. The 48mm rod journals on the 25D are prone to damage after overheating and high mileage. The bearings are cheap and it's worth doing them when the engine is torn down. A light hone, bearings, rings, and new seals. I just bought all the parts for a '98 Forester engine and it was $175 for bearings, rings, and bottom end gasket set..... that's with ACL race series rod bearings for improved durrability. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldersd Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) Pull the motor, it's easy, remember to un-bolt the torque converter bolts(auto) or the TC will come out with the motor, making a terrible mess (don't ask me how I know) also remember to drain the tranny fluid, I replaced the HG's on my wife's outback 40,000 miles ago, runs like a dream, got 194 on the OD, so far so good, and i'm 100% red neck shade tree mechanic. I used the subaru MLS type. Just do it yourself, there such good cars, and you'll feel so good after it's done, Also, remember the oil separator plate retrofit, so you don't have a leak when it's done. Edited September 23, 2011 by weldersd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JGromada Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 thanks for the advice. i think i am definitely pulling the engine because like i said this is intended to be a winter project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 (edited) Comments from a newbie (me): - I think the FSM recommends separating the inner end of the front axles from the transmission to make it easier to undo the bolts (nuts) on the bottom of the engine. Smart idea (that I discovered too late) - I doubt the EJ25 is 300 pounds. I can move the block around by myself with a little effort. I think two people should be able to lift the engine out of the engine bay. Don't quote me on that, though - If you decide to buy an engine hoist, Craigslist is the place to go. You'll probably sell it again afterwards, anyway. I got mine for a little more than $100 - On the other hand, Harbor Freight has some decent engine stands for $39 or so, and you can find the 20% discount coupons everywhere. The cheapest one is enough to hold the EJ25 or an EJ22 - To loosen the flex plate to torque converter bolts, the easiest way I found was to remove the intake manifold bolts, and using a ratchet, a couple of 3/8" extensions and a regular socket. You need to keep the crank from turning, though. - Make sure you don't take apart things unless you really have to [Edit] forgot to mention: - Note *any* oil leaks you may have... you'll want to fix these while the engine is out. The local gururs say NOT to touch the rear crank seal, though. And I trust them... - Clean the engine really well before you start taking things apart. Leave it pristine, and you'll avoid running through 50 gloves as I did (they are cheap on Harbor freight as well ) - The engine holds a lot of fluids in several places, and every time you move it around it will spill a bit of oil or coolant -or both- on thah floor you were supposed to keep clean. The shallow metal pans at O'Reillys (or any other auto parts store) are wonderful to catch those spills... but make sure you buy the largest one - Since you are likely not to play attention to the previous point until it's too late: Sams Club sells some sort of clay dust/little pellets that is really good absorbing spilled fluids. I tried cat litter first, but it got messy really fast. The clay works fine - Pick a good penetrant oil, and use it judiciously. I should have started by soaking the timing belt cover bolts... but of course I didn't. Kano Kroil comes to mind, and there's an easy way of getting it for not too much more than what you pay for other penetrant oils at local stores. Edited September 23, 2011 by jarl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Axle removal is overkill. A 14mm swivel for hte one by drivers axle is handy. search for "skipnospam" probably my favorite starting point when other ask about the whole procedure.m IIR his is slicghtly older so you'll have 8 eng/trans bolts and he had 4 - no biggie. A "roto head" 1/4 ratchet - snap-on, gearwrench, Harbot freight is easiest for me for flex plate bolts - and a cheater pipe. I remove radiator and put cardboard/wood over AC rad thing. Make sure OEM HG's and that you get crank bolt TIGHT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 The nut on the passenger side at the bottom of the bellhousing can be removed easily from above. You can fit a standard 3/8" drive 14mm socket on a ratchet down there between the bellhousing and axle cup. The other side can be done form above as well but is a bit more difficult with the steering linkage in the way. As Dave said a swivel adapter makes it a breeze. I have one like this and it is absolutely worth every penny of the ~ $9 I spent on it. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-3-8-in-drive-2-7-8-in-black-oxide-finish-chrome-moly-steel-impact-universal-joint-socket/_/N-263d?counter=2&itemIdentifier=914031_0_0_ Flex plate bolts, get a 12mm 0 degree offset box end wrench. Get one of the extra long ones if you can for better leverage. Also very handy for the AC belt tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 It's a direct swap. No electrical needed. The only thing is, if the ej22 isn't a 95 you'll need to swap the header. Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind.I'd start by checking local forums and on here in the for sale section. I've found mine on a local forum. Engine hoist? nahhhhhh I've always wondered what you use that big friggin sledge hammer for that's lying in the engine bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Gentlemen... taking things apart is easy. Putting things together is the tricky part In my case I had no idea how tight was tight enough, so I tightened everything by the book using a torque wrench... that didn't fit with the axle in place. I think a swivel joint would alter the torque measurements, specially given the somewhat tight angle when doing the lower nut at the driver's side. Besides, I had already broken the 3/8" flex joint I had for my ratchet I didn't have enough space to do the flex plate bolts either. I replaced the inner boots of my front axles with the engine out, so removing the pin once again wasn't really a biggie. Harbor Freight carries a nice set of pin removing punches too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldersd Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Plan on taking the head in to be inspected by a good shop, for sure resurface, maybe valves, the gasket replacement will work good if you do the resurface, water pump, thermostat, plugs,wires, use goop(sparingly) on valve covers, all new seals, even main seal, it's right there, for sure separator plate, timing belt, be careful, don't use impact wrenches, the aluminum galls easily, hand tools only. dip head bolts in oil before you install, I soak the gasket in oil too. right before install, oil the crap out of everything when your reassembling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 also remember to drain the tranny fluid Why would you drain the tranny for pulling the engine? I didn't, and never heard anyone doing it. I've always wondered what you use that big friggin sledge hammer for that's lying in the engine bay. It was a while ago, but I seem to remember it had something to do with getting the engine and transmission separated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldersd Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 Why would you drain the tranny for pulling the engine? I didn't, and never heard anyone doing it. It was a while ago, but I seem to remember it had something to do with getting the engine and transmission separated... I found, after removing the engine twice now, that if you drain the trans, you have less mess, you have to remove the radiator, the radiator is also the trans cooler, since you have to drain the trans cooler, might as well drain the trans and put fresh oil in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I found, after removing the engine twice now, that if you drain the trans, you have less mess, you have to remove the radiator, the radiator is also the trans cooler, since you have to drain the trans cooler, might as well drain the trans and put fresh oil in it. The cooler and lines going to it are much higher than the oil pan. So all the fluid will not drain out of the lines when they're disconnected. Not much comes out of that circuit anyway if it's been sitting for a while. And if it hasn't, draining the trans won't stop mess from pulling the rad. But, it's good to put new fluid in the trans anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 you have to remove the radiator, I have never removed the radiator in either of my subarus to pull an engine. It just isn't necessary. Put a board over it (1/4" plywood will more than suffice) if you're worried about putting a hole through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 I have never removed the radiator in either of my subarus to pull an engine. It just isn't necessary. Put a board over it (1/4" plywood will more than suffice) if you're worried about putting a hole through it. Or more importantly, putting lots of gashes on your knuckles I've always removed the radiator. Hmm, nice to know you don't have to. Do you pull the fans off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 It takes four minutes to remove the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) and coolant is on sale now at advance auto parts. look for the full strength. how often do you replace your coolant? and like the guy said about the trans fluid, pulling the engine seems like a good time to do it, unless you already have. Edited September 28, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldersd Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I have never removed the radiator in either of my subarus to pull an engine. It just isn't necessary. Put a board over it (1/4" plywood will more than suffice) if you're worried about putting a hole through it. It would take longer to cut out a piece of 1/4" plywood than to remove the 2 screws that hold in the radiator, if you drain the trans, you have a great opportunity to also back flush the cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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