blindrummer Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 1996 2.5 5-speed 350,000 miles engine re-build @175,000 Plugs/wires in great condition, PCV is new, Coil pack, air filter, and fuel filter is 1 year old, idle air control valve cleaned recently as well as SEAFOAM through intake, and in the oil to free sticky lifters. oil changed religiously lately i feel a loss of power up hills or full throttle, like a vacuum or fuel problem (slight whistle) then on a 150 mile round trip, blessed ol subaru took a nap that day, just 2 miles from destination. came around a corner, full acceleration to climb hill and i could feel the hesitation(slight whistle) and then no pedal response. almost stalled, but when i try to press accelerator she dies. started right up afterwards, but when i press accelerator she just dies Please help, how do i check throttle position sensor, Mass air flow sensor, i have a multi-meter but someone is going to have to help me out on this one. i'm ready for the 2.2 swap, just want to rule out fuel issues before i continue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 any check engine lights? i would check for fuel pressure/output. or try to start it with starting fluid/carb spray through a vacuum line. if it fires up then your fuel pump is probably hosed. only takes a few seconds, i'd check there first if you don't have any check engine lights to go on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Change the fuel filter for a start.Note how plugged the old one is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Sounds a lot like the fuel pump, they will still idle pretty good, but as soon as you get on the accelerator it falls flat. T a pressure guage into the hose between the fuel filter and the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindrummer Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Change the fuel filter for a start.Note how plugged the old one is. done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindrummer Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Sounds a lot like the fuel pump, they will still idle pretty good, but as soon as you get on the accelerator it falls flat. T a pressure guage into the hose between the fuel filter and the engine. thanks, kind of figured Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 he whistle is the clue to your problem. I would bet that you have had a CAT meltdown. The cat is now clogged and when you try to acdelerate, there is no where for the exaust to go and it chokes down the engine. Try taking the CATs out and run for a short time with open pipes. You will get a CEL, but if the car runs fine, then you will have the diagnosis. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 1996 2.5 5-speed 350,000 miles I thought '96 5-speed Outbacks had the 2.2 engine? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 fuel filter is 1 year old, So,is it done or is it a year old? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I thought '96 5-speed Outbacks had the 2.2 engine? Just curious. outbacks did. but GTs and LSi had the 2.5L engine. the 2.5L may have been optional with the 5 speed in 96. any one know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I just checked Cars101. There is no 2.5 option listed and there was no "Limited" Outback model available! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindrummer Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 I thought '96 5-speed Outbacks had the 2.2 engine? Just curious. it has a 5-speed transmission from a 94 legacy 4EAT died at 285,000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindrummer Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 I'm looking at getting a early 90's EJ22 from CCR but need info on the computer and intake/exhaust manifolds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Borrow/buy a vacuum gauge and you'll get a bunch of relevant information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 I'm looking at getting a early 90's EJ22 from CCRbut need info on the computer and intake/exhaust manifolds '90 through '94 EJ22s are OBD-1. I think you'd be wise to stick to '95 - '96 engines--they are OBD-2. Try a search for manifold compatability. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 you need an engine w/ egr. 95 - 98 ej22 car with auto trans. do a search to learn the important ''details''. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Check fuel pressure and check for plugged cats before condemning the engine. You don't want to spend money on a new engine and still have the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 new cat. pull the y pipe and gut the cat with a jack handle and hammer, shake out the chunks and pull the meshy junk out with a long pair of needle nose pliers. Try again. my wife's forester did the same thing. at first it would just kinda act boggy on hill or when "floored", and quickly got worse. new cat, no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 ...but before gutting the cat ($$$), check to see if the cat is the problem. Which is why I mentioned the vacuum gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 How does the vacuum gauge test for the cat work Jarl? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Scenario #14: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm "Simple diagnosis for a plugged cat: A common vacuum gauge will help, attached to the intake manifold. Manifold vacuum will normally reduce when you first tip in on the throttle. On a steady throttle position, the vacuum will rise as the engine rpms rise and the load is reduced. With the cat plugged, the vacuum will stay low. In your case, you can watch the vacuum drop to almost atmospheric pressure as you run out of power under load at 4k rpm, even at the partial throttle opening. FWIW, this is the same phenomena you'll see when the engine is running perfectly at full throttle, full load, full RPM. No manifold vacuum means that the engine can't draw any more air/fuel charge..." "A partially plugged cat or exhaust can cause some interesting problems. The easiest test is to put a vacuum gauge on a manifold port. Check the vacuum on a warm engine at idle (probably 15" to 18" mercury). Pop the throttle, revving the engine to about 3000 rpm, and hold the revs steady there. The vacuum should drop momentarily, then climb to a higher number (probably 20" to 25"). If the vacuum stays steady, the exhaust probably isn't plugged. If the vacuum starts dropping after a few seconds, the exhaust is probably partially plugged" (from http://www.nichols.nu/tip569.htm) Edited April 11, 2012 by jarl Wrong number! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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