1-3-2-4 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 First of all carfax and all the clones are expensive for what's really just showing you past info.. having said that I know what I need to do as far as the transmission as talked about in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121920 but given this is a Ej25D I gotta check the normal things they are put down over... HG. my question is the valves and how to adjust them really which is why I made this thread.. I mean how many owners really do that? is the adjustment like every 100K or 105K miles? The shim piece I'm just using a feeler between the lobe and the shim right? I'm going to ask about the timing belt but just in case I get the "I don't know" I'm looking over the service manual here and I'm not sure how the DOHC is... but it says not to rotate the intake and exhaust cams after the belt is off, but if I remember wont one side be under load? I know when I did mine on the EJ22 it was easy as pie but I had to keep it so it would not snap back. I mean if I gotta remove the cam sprockets to replace the seal behind it, it's going to move.. if I'm reading right the passenger side when rotating the cams will have the valves open but the drivers side will be closed when lined up? I know I will triple check by rotating the engine by hand to double check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 as far as valve adjustment goes on the EJ25D, I only do it if the engine is giving symptoms of valves out of adjustment. But to the adjustment, basically you are testing with the valve closed (meaning the lobe of the camshaft for that cylinder is pointing AWAY from the shim. insert a feeler gauge and replaced shims til you are in spec. That process is one of the PITA jobs on any subaru imo. I do mine a little different than some people do, but I do it my way because for me, its the fastest and simplest way to do it. You dont have to rotate the crankshaft at all using my method. Place the crankshaft timing mark on center (as if you were installing the timing belt.) This puts the pistons in a neutral spot where valves CANNOT hit the piston even when fully open. Once you have the crank set with the notch @ 12 oclock, dont move the crankshaft until you are done and have the timing belt reinstalled. Leave the pulleys on the engine, remove valve covers and test away. You will be turning the individual cams as you test the gap between the CAM LOBE AND THE SHIM. Some people will freak out and say no no no dont turn the cams it will hurt something. Don't worry it wont hurt anything as long as the crank timing mark is @ 12 oclock. The pistons are recessed over 2 inches into the cylinders, there is NO physical way for a stock EJ25D to have valve to piston contact if you set it correctly. if you follow the service manual there is like 16 steps/positions you gotta put the engine in to test all of them with the timing belt left on. thats why I say if they arent acting up, dont mess with them. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 As long as the cam timing marks are lined up i should be ok right? I can't remember how it was with the SOHC but like if I say rotate one cam around one revolution and lined it back up it should line up the same each time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Correct. One full revolution of the crank equals one half revolution of the cam. I'd adjust the shims just like Torxxx says. Take the timing belt off and adjust one cam at a time. It has oil on it, you can spin it over a couple times without hurting anything. What's the difference between turning one at a time, and turning all of them at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Ah ok got it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 ok well time to go pick this car up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 Update! Im looking at the car the tranny in N makes a metal running sound but I noticed no diff fluid.. Did move forward and backwards but did not try anything else.. If I can just find a auto place to get diff fluid. Sorry on mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) *UPDATE* I went to see the car (paid for) No HG leak.. only thing is the tranny was like bone dry so I went out and put in 2 qt of diff fluid.. Anyways while I did not drive the car more then 2 Ft forward and backwards I had no problems with 1st, 2nd or getting into reverse.. HOWEVER in neutral or any gear the tranny makes this sound I'm so sorry I did not do a video on my phone I forgot all about it.. the closest sound I can describe it as being a rotating sound from what sounds like from inside the tranny.. I'm not sure if it would be the TOB I felt the tranny case and I did not feel that much vibration so it could be the TOB? Anyways 2 Qt got me up to the middle of the diff dipstick. Also no HG issues that I can see of but I did not let it fully warm up since the gas was very low and the light was on but good thing I brought my HF jump pack with me since the battery was flat. other then that above it looked good. Edited April 13, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 (edited) man now I have brand new less then 1 month old NGK plug wires from a EJ22 I can no longer use crossing my fingers that my mail comes early enough (she sent title and bill of sale certified) that I can drive up and get what I need done and get the car down here. I mean Hartford is about 83 miles from me. Also... Wow this is the first 2nd Gen I've seen where the A/C button lights up!! Must mean they never really used it because it's not a replaceable part. Edited April 15, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 you probably already know but the manuals have fairly common input shaft bearing issues. my buddy changed the fluid in his 97 legacy about a year ago and the noise went away completely after having been there for awhile. i believe he's got a thread on here about it too. maybe you'll get lucky too? *** if it goes away when you press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor then it's probalby the input shaft bearing. actually his is an EJ22 and he needs spark plug wires - i gave him a brand new set of the wrong thing - not sure if they're EJ25's or not but maybe you and I can do a trade or something. LOL! just PM me, i might even buy them from you if they're Subaru wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Well when I get my paperwork I'm going to do what fairtax4me said.. turn the car off while its still moving and if you still hear the sound then it's the rear bearing if not then the TOB going crazy or the input bearing. Which I think is the one that's just behind the input seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 sweet I just got the title and bill of sale so away I go to pick the car up! at least it's going to be a nice day unlike tomorrows rainy day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 well %&*$^&( I have to wait until Tuesday now to get the car.. DMV says they need a pass from the town hall stating my property tax is up to date on the last car before I can get my plates.. So effin close.. I would of made it had the stupid mail guy did not come with my certify letter at 1 Pm.. town hall closes at 3:30 and closed weekends and the DMV is closed Monday... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 16, 2011 Author Share Posted April 16, 2011 When i get the car on Tuesday I just wanted to know maybe it's 97 issue or what.. It's been 5 years since I had a 2.5 motor but when you just tap the throttle the revs hang a bit before coming back down. I don't think I ever remember that happening on a 98 forester or my 03 I had.. maybe throttle body needs cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 got everything I need just need to go to the dmv to get my registration and I can bring her home! I'm going to buy a bottle of heat because I'm not really sure how long the car has been sitting with almost a empty tank fuel light shows on and off when idling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 The idle being high during a cold start is normal. Also, driving when the engine is cold and you push in the clutch to downshift or come to a stop, the engine rpm will increase and then drop down. Mine has done that since I bought it. Hope that helps. Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 nope that's not really what I mean but when i get the video tomorrow I will show you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) I got a video but I guess thats just how it is.. Here are some pictures.. btw that grill did not stay on.. I forgot to take it off after I did the pictures and someone ran over it :-/ seems like the bumper had a slight bend to it since the passenger side headlight never really sits right.. plus cracked at the top and water was inside and water hits a hot bulb.. you know the rest.. hopefully it wont be too much longer until I get the JDM headlights in.. First mod as soon as I get home.. I put in my LED map lights (gotta fix passenger side) and the LED dome light I had from my 95 Legacy.. very bright as you can see. Just map light maplight and dome dome I got a CEL the most consistent one is about the knock sensor I'm sure it's cracked.. and I had a misfire on Cly 3 & 4 but I cleared them and I haven't seem them back yet but the plug wires look pretty check so I haven't done much today since I'm pretty worn out. Edited April 20, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Congrats! Lookin' good, hope it all comes together for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) Im shocked how good the leather is.. I'm debating right now if I want to take the battery out and bring it in and put it on a charge since it's been sitting for weeks dead.. I wen to get gas and I had to jump myself but after I got home it was charged enough to start on it's own. Also anyone know if you can mix gear oil weights? I have a bottle of 80w-90 I have yet to use and I was just curious. spare bulb I had from old headlights from the 95.. this car's light was full of water.. Edited April 20, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Looks good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 Thanks it feels nicer then my other car however I think the rear sway bar is bigger? It sure does feel like it.. For testing yesterday when it was wet it was easy to go sideways if forced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) hmm... sucks I ran out of intake cleaner. Edited April 20, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 enjoying the afternoon sun I was looking in the owner booklet and someone kept the sales slip for when they had service on the car.. they had the Timing belt and water pump and a few other things changed at 66,600 miles One question.. and I remember this well trying to change the spark plugs on the 98 Forester.. I forgot whats the best way to get to the driver side spark plugs? It's a super tight fit.. Also checking the valves I'd have to check the write up someone from here did but they can be done in the car right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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