100,000 mile maintenance Qs

[quazi]

Hi All---

 

Early 2003 Forester with 2.5L non-turbo, manual, 101,000 miles.

 

I've never had a single problem with this car and do the maintenance myself.

 

I'm doing the timing belt, changing plugs and wires, flushing the cooling system, doing the brakes, etc., getting ready for the next 100,000 miles.

 

A couple of things I've come across that seem a little abbynormal:

 

The #4 spark plug tube was pretty oily with relatively clean engine oil, I'd guess about a teaspoon's worth. Although the #4 NGK plug had a too-worn electrode (as did #1; I think they have around 50,000 miles on them), the color was good and none of the oil had appeared to get by the plug's gasket. The rest of the plug tubes had just a trace of oil at the top of the tube.

 

I have been smelling burning oil especially with the heater on. It was dripping on the exhaust. The left side axle boot was a bit oily as well as the steering gear boot; I cleaned both and the surrounding area. The only place I could confirm a leak is at the valve cover gasket seam. I gave the cover bolts a tweak which was probably a tad over torque specs. I'm all dis-assembled, so I won't know the outcome 'til I'm back on the road.

 

I'm not burning a lot of oil (although I've noticed that this engine is more old school in this department; you really do have to check regularly) and have no smoke. Coolant was clear green.

 

Any red flags?

 

Also, based on Haynes, I'm changing the timing belt, but hadn't planned on replacing the idlers and tensioner, but in my searches here some of you recommend doing so.

 

Thanks,

 

JW

[Suzam]

You may want to check the cam seals also. They usually need to be replaced around the same time as the TB. I would think about changing the valve cover gaskets as well.

 

Along with the idlers and tensioner I'd consider replacing the water pump while you are in there.

[quazi]

You may want to check the cam seals also. They usually need to be replaced around the same time as the TB. I would think about changing the valve cover gaskets as well.

 

Along with the idlers and tensioner I'd consider replacing the water pump while you are in there.

 

Thanks for your reply.

 

I forgot to mention that I am replacing the water pump as well.

 

I don't know where the cam seals are, but I'll find'em. You think they might be related to the oil leak? Are they "upstream" of the valve cover gasket?

 

JW

[idosubaru]

timing belt yes.

 

get the Subaru coolant conditioner - required with your motor - since you're opening up the system anyway. drain the radiator, fill with coolant, and add the bottle per the instructions (shake!).

 

the pulleys are a toss up but they are more likely to fail in my opinion/experience before 200,000 miles than the water pump. EJ water pumps rarely fail. ebay timing belt kits run about $200-ish and include all the pulleys. the import experts is fairly common for many of us here to use. you can call them and ask about including the tensioner, they will custom build whatever you want for a kit if what you want isn't listed on ebay.

 

another option is to leave the old pulleys but remove the timing belt at 150,000 miles to inspect them again. Since you are doing it yourself you'll realize it's not really that difficult.

 

the seals you could consider leaving if they're bone dry, but it sure is nice to have them on hand if you need them. use Subaru seals only on the cam and crank.

 

if you decide to reseal the oil pump then tighten the rear backing plate screws and you need one oring, the crank seal, and a tube of sealant to seal it.

 

valve cover gaskets - when you replace the gaskets there are also spark plug cover gaskets which seal between the spark plug holes and valve cover. you'll replace them when you replace the valve cover gaskets too.

 

adjust your valves now, it's really easy on this motor, only takes a few minutes with the covers already removed.

[quazi]

Hi Grossgary---

 

Do you mean if I was not going to change the water pump, I could reseal it?

 

I'd like to get back on the road ASAP, and getting the new parts of the timing belt kit and also the valve cover gaskets will take more time. Generally, though, I like to put $ saved by doing the work myself towards going the extra mile while I'm into it. Will the pulleys/tensioner give any warning before they fail?

 

Other than removing the resonator and the battery and washer res, it looks like the valve cover/ valve adjustment is a separate job. I'm guessing that you're thinking the oil in my #4 spark plug tube is from a seal at the top of the tube that I'll replace with the VC gasket.

 

Thanks,

 

JW

[idosubaru]

yes - seals replaced with valve cover will fix that leak. the valve cover itself is not causing the oil in the spark plug hole, that's the spark plug gasket sealing the hole there.

 

do the valve adjustment when you do the valve cover gasket, with the cover off it's only like 10 minutes, it's really easy and i doubt you have to remove anything to do it.

 

tensioners can cause a slapping/knocking noise when they start to fail and idler pulleys don't give any warning at all. they run low on grease, seize, and shred the belt as it slides over them and overheats. that's why i say if you skip this step then go back in and recheck them at 50,000 miles.

 

water pump is not resealable, you throw it away and install a new one.

[quazi]

Grossgary---

 

I was reading Fairtax's tale of woe and now realize that you were referring to an OIL pump reseal. You even wrote oil pump, but I read water pump. I've always chucked a water pump, too, but I'm new to Subie-tech.

 

I think you are leading me down the road to Complete and True Maintenance, where attention to the oil pump is but one more test to be completed. Since The VW and 4-stroke Era, I have not done valves as they've all been hydraulic. I always liked adjusting valves. Smells like history!

 

I'm really seeing why you folks love these engines.

 

JW

[quazi]

The timing belt thing freaked me out a little. I'm unclear whether I'm working with an interference or non-interference engine. The Haynes manual warns about major engine damage should I not line up the belt correctly which added much gravity to the job. I haired-out of changing the water pump and the rest of the pulleys 'cause they all checked out OK, and I wasn't keen on messing up the camshaft positions to change seals which weren't leaking. It just seems like original factory parts last longer than aftermarket marts. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

Everything has gone back together nicely so far and when she fires back up I'll be more confident and courageous next time in. I'm making notes in my manual so I don't forget the different special techniques I devised to hold the crank pulley while breaking loose and re-torquing the bolt. And the secret to getting the new belt on without moving the camshafts.

 

JW

[quazi]

Survey says interference. No safety net!

[idosubaru]

Yes it's definitely interference. Good job getting it all done!

 

As for aftermarket parts - you wouldn't want to use aftermarket seals for the cams/cranks. What you'll find is that some parts aftermarkets are good, others should be Subaru only. If you're not informed of the particulars then Subaru is probably best.

 

You tested the pulleys by spinning them? Have you ever felt what a brand new pulley feels like? They're very tight and do not spin at all when you try to free wheel them. They're packed with lots of grease. As pulleys age they start free wheeling...spin them and whiiirrrrrr they spin really nice - that's not good as it means they've lost all the grease in the bearings.

[quazi]

Thanks,

 

They spun freely, but had no play or roughness. I'll re-visit this job in the next 25-30,000 mi and have all my ducks in a row before I tear into it again: pulleys, water pump, seals, etc.

 

It really hasn't been that bad so far. A lot of this is just proceeding with caution as I get familiar with the car.

 

JW

[quazi]

Adjusted the valves and changed the valve cover gaskets today.

 

All set to put in the new plugs and wires after gapping the plugs. I was checking the Haynes manual for plug gap specs. They listed different plugs for EJ251 type I,II,III. I started to look around the engine compartment for an indication of which I have when I found the emissions sticker on the hood.

 

The emissions sticker from Subaru says intake valves .010", exhaust .015".

I adjusted my valves to Haynes specs of intake .007"-.009" and exhaust .009"- .010".

 

Oh well, I'll just wait and see what happens.

 

Just kidding. I'm pulling the VCs off again in the morning and adjusting them to Subie specs. For my Scout and my old Fords I have factory manuals, so I know better. Got to get a Subaru manual. Nothing worse than tight exhaust valves.

 

Also, I finally found a 1/2" drive 14mm allen wrench for the coolant drain plugs. There were no torque values for the plugs, so I got underneath with my 1/2" torque wrench to see at what torque they broke loose. When they refused to budge at more torque than the crankshaft pulley bolt, I quit trying, fearing I might tear a chunk of the block off with the plug.

 

I'm going to flush the system with the plugs in place---is that bad?

 

Has anybody noticed that the lower radiator hoses are much harder to find than the uppers?

 

JW

[idosubaru]

glad it's going smooth that's awesome.

 

that's strange. the 2000 Forester engine I just did was .008" intake and 0.010" exhaust? i just checked and my 2000 Subaru Factory Service Manual says .008 and .010. same SOHC EJ25 engine as yours but maybe yours is a bit different being a 2003?

 

i would just change the coolant without touching those drain plugs, i've never removed one or drained the engine to do a flush. haven't ever replaced a lower coolant hose yet so not sure about that.

 

Subaru requires a coolant additive for your motor, but you probably know that already.

Edited April 17, 2011 by grossgary

[quazi]

Maybe it's a California emissions thing. I'd feel like a dope ignoring Subaru's sticker 2 ft. from #4 valves.

 

I'll call the dealer about the coolant additive; is it like Redline's water wetter ( I think that's what it's called.)

 

Thanks,

 

JW

Edited April 17, 2011 by quazi

[idosubaru]

i don't know what it is - i would just get the stuff that Subaru sells given the unforgiving nature of EJ25 headgaskets. it's a blue bottle - folks have posted pictures of it here - Subaru Coolant Conditioner, believe me they'll know exactly what you're talking about. Dealer I stopped in a couple weeks ago had them sitting out on a shelf by the check out counter.

 

2003 engines might be different? i never noticed valve adjustment stuff in the engine bay, nice find. where was that, on the hood or on that strut plate with the VIN on it?

 

mine were really tight and i couldn't get any feelers between any of the valves so either of those measurements would ahve been a good thing.

[quazi]

Hi Grossgary---

 

The tip on conditioning the coolant is much appreciated. I actually read either in Haynes or my owners manual not to put additives with the coolant. I'll hit the dealer Monday.

 

The sticker is factory and is underneath the hood near the hinge, driver's side.

 

I'll try to attach a pic.

 

Of course, after sleeping on it, I'm wondering whether my engine is any different than yours or whether it's just California emissions "de-tuned".

[quazi]

Here's my thinking... Experts please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Valve lash is the slack between the rocker arm and the valve stem.

 

Less lash(Subaru factory specs, and also Haynes) = more valve lift or "looser" valve = longer duration open and more gasses passing through.

 

More lash(underhood sticker)= less lift or "tighter" valve= shorter duration and less time for gasses to intake or exhaust.

 

If this is correct, more lash (within the range of specs I'm talking about) is more restrictive and should mean hotter exhaust valves, and emissions-wise perhaps more complete combustion of exhaust gasses.

 

Assuming there is no mechanical difference between my engine and Grossgary's, the performance and engine longevity choice would be his, Haynes' and the Subaru factory manual. The emissions choice would be the settings on my sticker.

 

Neither will result in engine damage in the short or medium run.

 

Any comments would be appreciated. Meanwhile, I'll be on my sizzling driveway working away.

 

Thanks,

 

JW

[Quidam]

Well, you pretty well covered it.

[idosubaru]

I actually read either in Haynes or my owners manual not to put additives with the coolant. I'll hit the dealer Monday.

that's a good recommendation in general as additives are generally a band aid and not good long term solutions. additives should be avoided at all cost unless you can find very specific non-anecdotal remedies for known issues. those instances are rare, but here's one of them. other than a mostly 99 year trans issue this is about the only additive that's regularly recommended for Subaru's. Edited April 17, 2011 by grossgary

[quazi]

Quiddam---

 

It's been a long time since I had to think about valve adjustments and I think there's a little confusion since a loose feeler gauge then means a tight valve.

 

Thanks for the check of my fundamentals.

 

Grossgary---This board is a great resource for home mechanics. If I was a dealer or Subaru pro, I would probably get advisories and updates about new recommendations. If I hadn't checked-in, I would have blissfully driven into the sunset and possible unnecessary HG failure.

 

Lost my brake assistant for now, but I hope to road test today.

 

JW

[quazi]

Road tested today---- purrs like a kitten.

 

Hope my choice of the .008/.010 was the right one, as I'm taking a trip to AZ. I usually like to leave more shakedown time before a trip--- Check that---I always like to but somehow never do.

 

Smooth, quiet, noticeably more zotz.

 

Thanks to the folks that pitched-in.

 

JW

 

P.S. Picked up the Subaru coolant conditioner today, Grossgary. You should have warned me that they get almost 2 1/2 dollars for it.