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2 bolts with nuts go through the tie down loops on the rear of the undercarriage and then 2 bolts drop down from inside the chassis frame with 2 nuts. theses nuts are easy to get to but the bolts from the inside are more difficult. i might remove the nuts, washer and then the hitch and then reinstall the nuts and washers. this would eliminate having to take the ''cargo area apart to get the bolts out. and it would keep road dirt from entering the car.

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I usually use an impact from below.

 

In the 70's I installed a LOT of hitches, actualy when Uhaul got into the business in about 79 or 80 I was the regional hitch expert since I had been doing it for about 5 years by then.

 

A lot of times the "nuts" are rectangular hunks of metal that are threaded and made to get jambed and thus stop from turning be they in a spare tire well or frame inplaces where you can't get a wrench on them.

 

The Subaru's I've removed hitches from didn't reuse any OEM hardware. So the 4 bolts from underneath (and I've never had to put a wrench on the "nut" on top) and you should be good. The manufacturers vary a bit but usually if there isn't ample room they either do rthe rectangular hunk of metal thing or weld a metal strip to a nut to help position the nut in the frame/unibody that that strip helps it get jambed.

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I did the u-haul hitches myself and did a few soobs in maison, wi.

 

one fun fact: the valley tobar for sale at u-haul just happens to fit ea81-ea82-legacy/impreza tow loops without the shackles, just pins and the rectangular spacers leftover from hitch installs.

 

 

I usually use an impact from below.

 

In the 70's I installed a LOT of hitches, actualy when Uhaul got into the business in about 79 or 80 I was the regional hitch expert since I had been doing it for about 5 years by then.

 

A lot of times the "nuts" are rectangular hunks of metal that are threaded and made to get jambed and thus stop from turning be they in a spare tire well or frame inplaces where you can't get a wrench on them.

 

The Subaru's I've removed hitches from didn't reuse any OEM hardware. So the 4 bolts from underneath (and I've never had to put a wrench on the "nut" on top) and you should be good. The manufacturers vary a bit but usually if there isn't ample room they either do rthe rectangular hunk of metal thing or weld a metal strip to a nut to help position the nut in the frame/unibody that that strip helps it get jambed.

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I did the u-haul hitches myself and did a few soobs in maison, wi.

 

one fun fact: the valley tobar for sale at u-haul just happens to fit ea81-ea82-legacy/impreza tow loops without the shackles, just pins and the rectangular spacers leftover from hitch installs.

 

Funny. Valley made what I consider to be the best tow bar for regular VW beetles. A slightly different design than most where it attaches to the front torsion bar.

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no air tools needed, just chain it to a telephone pole and drive away, it will turn to dust and keep you from having to climb under.

 

When I worked for uhaul, we installed hitches, but mostly washed our cars and changed our oil on the clock, with uhaul's materials :grin:

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