83 DL, no power.

[ErikAnderson]

Couple issues i am trying to nail down with this car.

 

I am pretty sure i have more than one problem... but, here goes.

 

1) is it safe to assume i have a hitachi carb?

 

2) car is highly reluctant to start up when cold, once it starts it wants to idle way down low and will often stall when extra throttle is given before it warms up. As it warms up the idle speeds up as well.

 

3) The throttle always has to be bounced in order to accelerate the car. If i simply stomp on it then it will bog down and at times stall, if it does not stall it just sits down at an almost useless RPM and i turn in to "that guy" who is doing 18 in a 30. Typical acceleration procedure is to go WOT for half a second, and then feather it back up to desired throttle position.

 

4) i have lost much of my top speed. I remember this car easily doing 75mph, hell it was doing 65 up the pass. Now i am lucky to get it up to 50. Once up to it's max speed it will often slowwwwwwwly lose power even though i am WOT (hey, that kind of sounds like a fuel filter now that i type it out).

 

i was thinking of doing these things in this order:

1) fuel filter

2) plugs/wires

3) stand in front of my carb and scratch my head.

 

 

any other suggestions? i learn (and forget) fast, and have a technical job and mindset so if i have instructions i can handle most tasks. I would love to have my little wagon back.

[Scoobywagon]

Yes, it is a fairly safe assumption that you have a hitachi carb. Also, your three troubleshooting/repair steps are valid. That said, I'd advise adding in a bit of swearing at it. Not sure why, but that seems to help a bit. After you've done a bit of swearing and, if you are VERY skilled, bashing your knuckles on random engine bits, you might look into replacing the carb.

 

Rebuild kits can be had, but they're expensive and involve a lot of work. Lots of folks here will swap in a Weber carb. A bit more power and LOTS more tunability. Another option might be to do an SPFI swap from an EA82 engine.

[ErikAnderson]

is a weber carb a direct replacement? I will start doing some research on how to do that swap. Thanks

[Scoobywagon]

As I understand it, the weber swap is NOT a straight across bolt up swap. Someone else will almost certainly chime in with the specifics, but my understanding is that it is still a pretty straightforward deal.

 

But don't forget the swearing. That's a very important step.

[Quidam]

 

2) car is highly reluctant to start up when cold, once it starts it wants to idle way down low and will often stall when extra throttle is given before it warms up. As it warms up the idle speeds up as well.

 

Check to see if your choke is closing. Remove the air cleaner and look.

 

3) The throttle always has to be bounced in order to accelerate the car. If i simply stomp on it then it will bog down and at times stall, if it does not stall it just sits down at an almost useless RPM and i turn in to "that guy" who is doing 18 in a 30. Typical acceleration procedure is to go WOT for half a second, and then feather it back up to desired throttle position.

 

May be accelerator pump shot. When you're checking the choke, peer down into the carb and pump the throttle. You should see it pumping.

 

Without actually seeing it, I can offer this:

 

1. You, or have someone put a kit in it.

 

2. Buy a remanufactured carb. For low budget, keep your eye out for something like this: $117.11 plus shipping, if no one else bids. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Arrow-carburetor-Subaru-1982-83-1-6L-1-8L-2-barrel-Hi-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e62e7b2f9QQitemZ130508370681QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

3. Install a Weber. Around $300.00+

Edited April 16, 2011 by Quidam

[ErikAnderson]

Check to see if your choke is closing. Remove the air cleaner and look.

 

 

 

May be accelerator pump shot. When you're checking the choke, peer down into the carb and pump the throttle. You should see it pumping.

 

Without actually seeing it, I can offer this:

 

1. You, or have someone put a kit in it.

 

2. Buy a remanufactured carb. For low budget, keep your eye out for something like this: $117.11 plus shipping, if no one else bids. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Arrow-carburetor-Subaru-1982-83-1-6L-1-8L-2-barrel-Hi-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e62e7b2f9QQitemZ130508370681QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

3. Install a Weber. Around $300.00+

 

Hey thanks for the ideas.

The choke is closing, i am unsure what you mean by "accelerator pump shot".

 

Thanks for the heads up on rebuilt carbs, i think that is my next step, i should just need that and a mounting gasket right?

I will try to pick one up next time i get back from offshore, i head out soon.

 

The webber idea looks a little too expensive, and i am much more fond of a plug and play solution.

 

I spent today putting brakes on my wrx and cleaning it's headlights off. Pretty cool process, took my old foggy headlights and made them new again.

erik

[Scoobywagon]

He means that the accelerator pump is probably shot. That is to say that it isn't delivering the additional fuel required when you mash the throttle.

 

The reman carb is a good idea. Hadn't realized they were available. Good call.

[Quidam]

"Thanks for the heads up on rebuilt carbs, i think that is my next step, i should just need that and a mounting gasket right?

I will try to pick one up next time i get back from offshore, i head out soon."

 

YW. Yea, the carb and base gaskets. Keep in mind tho, through parts stores, these may cost $250.00, more or less for the remanufactured.

[ErikAnderson]

Offshore and working (making money) again, i am going to try to track down one of these carbs. Hopefully it will spark up some new life in my car.

 

Thanks again.