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This is what happened when I (ignorantly) used Bosch platinum plugs

 

IMG_3740.jpg

 

Not only that, the center core will recede into the insulator as it erodes. making it even harder to spark. I HATE bosch platinums... NGK anything is better by far.

also, wife's 98 forester did this when it rained mainly, replaced wires, with NGK wires from rockauto.com, WITH dielectric grease on each end to keep water out and no more shakey shakey when it rains!

 

Flashing check engine light means repeat misfires and possible catalytic converter damage... try not to run it long like that or the cat can melt inside from excessive unburnt fuel going through it heating it up.

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it was still flashing off throttle when I downshifted with no throttle but then stopped as soon as I took my camera out to film it stopped blinking and it did not again after getting it more throttle.

 

I will do the plugs in the morning as soon as I can get a 3/8 Ujoint

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IIR my assortment for this job includes a K-B spark plug socket with the universal built in, a wobble extension or two and what is now called a "roto head" ratchet. Also for cylinder #4 I believe I use a 1" old snap-on extension - and ones that short are hard to find.

 

A cool trick especially on the drivers side it to get a way long extension - like 2 feet or so and not actually have the ratchet in the engine compartment rather than working cramped.

 

Anti-seize those new plugs. I still wish they were the plain, sinple green writing, 2 buck ones, but you may be fine and it's certainly your car. I also dielectric grease the plugs and boots myself.

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yeah it's been so long I can't remember how I did it I know I have a 3/8" U-joint here just not sure where.. but I have more then enough extensions..

 

I have the Anti-seize and dielectric grease I always put some where the coil pack is and the spark plug end.

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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With the invention of wobbles I don't recall the last time I used a universal - other than the one built into some of my spark plug sockets.

 

Wobbles never seem to be able to be at such a sharp angle that they bind on themselves. That said obviousely a universal can make a tighter bend.

 

Have fun.

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If I can't pull them by hand.

 

One of my newer favorite tools for the past few years are "hose pliers".

 

I sometimes need to use them on stubborn (and/or non lubed) Subaru plug boots. Gotta watch they can harm them. But then again they were probably old/bad if they are that hard to get off.

 

The cheap ones (15 bucks harbor freight) have less angle to them than the good ones (Sunnex 60 bucks). SOmetimes one works better than the other for a use. But at the price had I not bought the Sunnex before HF started making them I just would try and straighten a set of theirs out.

 

FYI HF is running way low on these pliers. I picked up yet another set for a friend on wednesday. Warehosue showed none and I got last set in the store. But a very handy tool set. If you get a chance to grab a set I would.

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hmm it seems like you really need two ujoints lol..

 

So I got the one with the one attached to the socket when I noticed it went in so deep. I have two extensions but the right I have are for 1/2" so I was only able to change one so far and i changed the plug for #3 and I looked at it.. I will get a macro picture of it later.. I also changed the plug wires around.

 

when I do adjust my valves the valve cover gasket can be changed as well.

 

Now back to trying to find that spare u-joint lost someplace around the house. I doubt using my breaker bar would be very fun.

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well So like I said I only changed one plug for the time being until monday at least..

 

I changed all the plug wires around and I still had a misfire on Cly 3 & 4

 

So here is the plug from the cylinder 3

 

DSC00337.jpg

 

So now next would be to do the wires then checking the coil pack?

 

Perhaps I'm getting it because of the knock sensor? I know people say its unrelated and I have my plug wires pushed down in the clips making sure they are not near the injector wires.

 

 

wow lots of threads around here about the misfire issue.. so many things like..

 

02 sensor

crank angle sensor

injectors..

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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I gotta tell ya.

 

That's a fancy plug you removed, and you're planning on putting fancy plugs in.

 

That year engine seems to run best on the 2 dollar NGK plugs with the green writing.

 

A case for me where the priciest has proven to be in no way the best. Must be a case where it's better to stick with "the technology at the time" rather than the latest.

 

I'm sure some have used them with success, don't get me wrong. I would just feel better if you were installing something less exotic that I don't believe is giving you any benefit.

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well So like I said I only changed one plug for the time being until monday at least..

 

I changed all the plug wires around and I still had a misfire on Cly 3 & 4

 

So here is the plug from the cylinder 3

 

DSC00337.jpg

 

So now next would be to do the wires then checking the coil pack?

 

Perhaps I'm getting it because of the knock sensor? I know people say its unrelated and I have my plug wires pushed down in the clips making sure they are not near the injector wires.

 

 

wow lots of threads around here about the misfire issue.. so many things like..

 

02 sensor

crank angle sensor

injectors..

 

 

my bad I just noticed that's for cylinder 1 that plug came from.. I replaced the other 3 today I will check to see if the misfire codes come back again.. Also I noticed before I did the other 3 plugs I was starting to get some very bad hesitation off the line until about 1800-2000 rpms.. Now I did a quick drive but I did not notice it back but I'm not going to rule out having to replace the o2 sensor as well.

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Inspect the old plugs well. i've seen the porcelain crack causing issues before.

 

I always number plugs to keep track of which cyls they came out of. Helps with diagnosis of problems if it turns out to be more than just plugs.

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yeah I keep track of the plugs myself.. they all look normal.. but wires will need to be replaced anyways since the wire pulled out of the plug for #4..

 

I was able to save it but everyone always uses those cheap rump roast plugs with the red boots same happened on my 95 Legacy and that had a SOHC which was painless to do..

 

I'm hoping when I take a little drive out tonight and tomorrow I can see if it had any effects on the misfires.

 

i changed the PCV yesterday as well

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I checked my scanner after I cleared my knock sensor code and I saw I had a pending code for yet again # 3&4 but not yet enough to turn on the CEL again..

 

So next is plug wires and from that on I will figure something out.

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Just remember, the same power should be at the ignitor at all times or leaving the coil pack. so Higher resistance by a bad conn or wire results in a Higher voltage at the plug. Which could burn it up when it's not at fault.:)

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Yeh . Sure the plug. That system delivers a tremendous kick and is going to find ground somewhere. If it finds it in the plug gap fine but it isn't the proper duration or power as designed. It is higher voltage than normal and could result in that hosed plug. The other thing is some cars don't tolerate this at all. I was surprised, being new to Subaru that folks unplug spark plugs while running. That is instant death to some for they self destruct.

I editted because after taking another look at that plug, i realise it's one of those pointy@** deals and the gap looks like TOO much. The deposits look like Extreme heat. Normal meter won't register this. An O'scope or big box could tell the ... well yes the new stuff too. Tell what sort of voltage pulse was higher than the others.

Edited by Fuzpile
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