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1-3-2-4 I'm not trying to blow wind in your direction nor waste your time. The removal of HT wires often results in internal breakage and the spark delivered is there but incorrect. i think your course of replacing wires and plugs(even those cheap NGK,gapped properly) will put you on a course which is at least diagnosible, if not remedy. : (Editted because actually got the firing order wrong in a reply.I cannot excuse this when the guy's Name is the firing order.) No hidden message just stupid preview.Dang :(

Edited by Fuzpile
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Regardless if plugs come pre-gapped or not. ALWAYS CHECK PLUG GAP.

How much extra time to check? a minute maybe to find your feeler gauge?

They can get banged around in shipment, not gapped right from the factory, etc.

 

I've seen way too many pre-gapped plugs with the wrong gap. I've even seen my share of defective plugs right out of the box! quality control isn't always the best.

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this thread is long and hard to follow - can yous simply list what all you've diagnosed/tried so far?

 

Also, the first post seems to start kind of mid-stream. What year and engine is this?

Edited by subsince77
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  • 4 weeks later...

A little update.. I was doing some hard runs on the highway and just as I went back to cruising speed and was going off the exit the CEL came on.. So waiting at the long light I pulled out the code reader and I expected the same 3&4 again but nope this time it was just cylinder 4 it's self but no blinking CEL..

 

 

A thing to note I just did a 654 mile trip and the light only came on once and that was it.

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  • 7 months later...

OK we have fixed this problem on three different 2.5s in the last year

all three have had loose front balancers the bolts were tight but bottomed out in crank the key-way and key were worn and had to replace key on all three and new washer and shorten bolt one thread (grinder) the loose balancer causes noise and the knock sensor

retards the timing until it missfires and turns on cel. Hope this fix works for you too Joe

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