General chaos Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 93 legacy sedan 2.2 at. well i knew it was leaky. but since i cleaned up around it now it really pukes oil. so i am going back in. one thing i noticed before is that. the gear on the crank wouldnt slide off by hand. and i really dont have a puyller to get behind it to pull it off the crank. so what is used what type of puller. i know it is stuck and probably shouldnt be. do i have to borrow one of those thing armed pullers to get the gear off the crank? or is it a bolt on puller that i have to use? if i understand it it is just a regular seal. its not soem sort of deal where i have to actually have to remove the pump if i can get the seal out with a seal puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 If the holes in the crank sprocket are threaded use a harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller. Using a jaw puller might damage the sprocket. It's not pressed on or anything, it should slide off fairly easy if you can just get it started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 if you can just get it started. To quote "aye there's the rub". Getting it started. Changed T belt and pulleys etc while doing a HG job on my BD and wanted to check oil pump screws and change O ring. Can't get the sprocket off yet. the holes are not threaded on mine and after the first ping of a broken screw driver tip and the horror that came over me looking for cracks in the oil pump, I have given up on that idea. So, it was reassembled w/o changing. I've PB'd it and am waiting to see how the OP gets his off. Maybe that'll help my situation. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 (edited) you can buy a tap for a few $ and thread the holes. just make sure the tread size matches the puller you have / borrow. but you might try tapping on it first. if you can ''break it loose'' it may come off. just don't booger it or brake anything. Edited April 23, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 are there any mods to uping the pressure that i should consider while the pump is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 For What it's worth, when I recently did the Belts/pumps/seals on my 96 2.2 OBW, the Crank pulley was a bear to get off. we tapped it with a wooden mallet to break it loose, then used a 3 arm puller to slide it the rest of the way off. Once it was off and we were ready to put everything back together, we used some 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the rust on the crankshaft and it easily slid right back on. And off again when we had to replace the oil seal that we cut when reassembling it! First time through changing Water pump, thermostat, belts & resealing the Oil pump 6 hours. Second time through, replacing oil seal around crankshaft, 2.5 hours and that includes 45 minutes of part chasing. I LOVE how easy this engine is to work on. Next up, plugs, wires & Knock Sensor, then Axles & Wheel Bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 are there any mods to uping the pressure that i should consider while the pump is out. You can replace the spring and O rings on the pressure bypass valve. But it's not really necessary. If oil pressure is low it's generally due to worn main bearings or worn pump housing/rotors. Neither of which is a common issue on the early Ej22. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 i ordered the gasket and seal kit saturday. it will be here tomorrow. and i can take the car apart them. i have a funny feeling i am goignt o end up at least replacing the head gaskets too. there was alot of white smooke coming out of the exhaust friday when we had ti running again. i think my wife got it too hot last year and may have doen something to it. the car didnt smoke that much white smoke before we took it apart to fix the balancer. a few weeks ago. i dotn know we will see after she runs it for ahwile if it is loosing anymore coolant. the iol pump gasket kit has 1 main housing gasket a O ring [i think] and a crankshaft seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 You don't need a "gasket kit." EJ engines don't have a "main housing gasket", they seal with an O-ring and a bead of anaerobic or Ultra-Grey sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 He said it was just an O ring. And that O-ring should be replaced if the pump is removed. Good Oil pump writeup: http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 here is what i ordered felpro part number TCS45919 from orielly's http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FEL0/TCS45919.oap?keyword=crankshaft+seal&pt=02345&ppt=C0026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Interesting. Never heard of anyone using a gasket for the oil pump and I don't believe Subaru (FHI) ever did on the EJ. Good luck. Let us know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 the kit says it fits many vehicles. but that doesnt mean anything about the gasket. i myslef dont like sticking stuff together with silicone. which i am guessing the grey rtv is silicone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Opposeed forces does not list a gasket as a part of the oil pump assembly. I used the red amaerobic when I did my ej253. Goes on in a small bead and does not harden in the air. Expemsive but so much easier to use. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Opposeed forces does not list a gasket as a part of the oil pump assembly. I used the red amaerobic when I did my ej253. Goes on in a small bead and does not harden in the air. Expemsive but so much easier to use. O. +1 to the red anaerobic. cleans up pretty easy too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I'd steer clear of the paper gasket. But it's your car, if it's easier for you, go with it. The factory sealant comes off easily with a small brass wire brush and some cleaner. Cleaned with alcohol and a thin smear of new RTV or Anaerobic gasket maker it will never leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 i got to thinking. i didnt use silicone on the water pump gasket last year. and it leaked with only the gasket in place. so i probably will use silicone and the gasket too. i have seen too many silicone blowouts in my time to trust only silicone as a gasket byitself. hopefully i can just pull the seal without havign to pull the pump. ha ha ha. yeah right. well i can put screws into the old seal and pull it out with the screws maybe. i go tthe gasket set today but it raiend so i didnt even bother with working on the car. in case it wanted to rain on me while i had my tools out in the open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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