mikewilke77 Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Ok, i have already replaced all the seals in the oil pump and i still have a really bad tick of death. I just bought it, a 92 loyale that has had documented repairs such as head gaskets and water pump and timing belts. the owner told me that subaru said it needed an oil pump to fix the ticking which has only recently started. What next guys, it only has 155k. I dont want to swap it cause it seems to run really well and is still getting29 mpg. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Pull your cam towers off and take the lifters out. I believe Mizpah (spelling?) rebuilds them. Worked for Ned, I did it for Rick and now Im driving Ned. I dont hear the ticking really... I mean sometimes, but its rare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm Youll see Subaru on their list about 3/4 of the way down. Looks like $4.50 to rebuild your core (so about $36) or buy their cores for $6.00 each, so $48.00 for the EA82s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Ok, i have already replaced all the seals in the oil pump and i still have a really bad tick of death. I just bought it, a 92 loyale the owner told me that subaru said it needed an oil pump to fix the ticking What next guys, it only has 155k. I dont want to swap it cause it seems to run really well and is still getting29 mpg. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance Hey, What kind of oil pressure does it carry? Was that a Dealer mechanic on the oil pump? I't not a bad time to put a fresh one in, at that mileage, for the life of the car. But, could be you don't "need" one? Try running it with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. This may loosen up the HLA if they're just sticking, contamanated, ect. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 You can service the oil pump simply by replacing its seals. The dealer would naturally sell you a new unit, for the sake of it being apart, but the oil pumps do not fail by themselves. Also , the gauge on the dash is notoriously inaccurate al tlow rpms, but the owners manual will state that it is normal to read towards 0 psi at idle when warm. The next thing is the cam tower o rings. Replace these when servicing the lifters. If they leak, this drops pressure to the lash adjusters. Whay commonly happens id the o ting and the oil pump seals will suck in like a pac man shape, and aerate the oil causing the lifter tick. This, and compounded by excessive carbon, sludge, maintenance history. Sometimes the marvel oil and sseafoam may clear it, a different weight of oil, doing some spirited driving may make it go away. Sometimes it can come and go, or go away when warm. I would recommend replacing the oil pump seals. If it perssts, do the o_rings. These engines are relatively simple to work on. I would recommend pulling the engine to take the cam towers off as assembly will be infinitely easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 These engines are relatively simple to work on. I would recommend pulling the engine to take the cam towers off as assembly will be infinitely easier Agreed. I did it with the engine in the car, but I have less sh*t in the way seeing as my EA82 has a carburetor so it wasnt THAT bad, but I did have to redo the sealant because I smeared it by accident when putting the cam tower back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nncoolg Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 ...anyone ever popped the HLAs out without removing the cam boxes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 ...anyone ever popped the HLAs out without removing the cam boxes? I doubt its possible. It's pretty tight in there as it is! Best fix I've done for these is the EJ conversion - but I won't side track you on that one. The lifter tick is not detrimental to the operation of your EA82, just a pain in the arse! Replacing the oil pump seal, shaft, rotor and matching pump gear can do wonders for the oil pressure as it is basically a new oil pump without the cost of a complete unit. One thing that kills the lifters is letting them continually tick without regular oil changes - the gritty oil wears out the cylinders that fill with oil that allows the "piston" end to compress the oil. These cylinders can leak oil out allowing the lifter to compress and thus make the ticking sound you hear when you run your EA82. I pulled a set apart to make some solid units (note: don't do this with MPFI units, not good before 4000rpm, after that it goes off like a frog in a sock!), some were really sloppy and others were pretty tight. Also if you do the solid units, they're a PITA to get the right clearances to make it run right without ticking... Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Bennie...why would you put a frog in a sock? The visual...too funny. I think it was less than ten bucks for a new oil pump shaft seal, oil pump o-ring, and mickey mouse gasket. Pretty cheap. I agree that there isn't enough room to 'safely' get the lifters out without removing the cam carriers/boxes. There are two more pieces inside the cam carrier that will help the tick situation and they are in the cam carrier. One is the cam carrier o-ring and the other is the relief valve spring. You can't service them without the carriers off. Note that I could not find anyone aside from the dealer for those two parts. If you decide to take the carriers off, its really simple - 8 bolts per carrier and they shouldn't be cranked on too hard (they are either 10mm or 12mm). Just make sure that your cams are at 12 oclock when you pull the boxes off and do it slowly so the lifters don't scatter and hit the ground. 12 oclock is when the little hole on the cam sprocket is lined up to the timing marks on the timing cover (timing belts obviously have to come off here so it would be wise to replace with new ones). At 12 oclock there will be no cam pressure on the lifters. Once the bolts are off if you pull the box off carefully and slowly, the lifters will stay in place. I am told that it is important to keep them in the same order as any microscopic differences between them could result in an increased 'tick' after reinstalling. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I never had them in a specific order and they worked out fine I can get specs from GD today on what we used for the lube/grease and stuff. He did say not to let the rockers hit the ground? Now I let one hit the ground :/ I was learning though. But didnt seem to cause an issue, but I wouldnt go playing bouncing rockers off pavement or anything, because they will want to fall out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RapidElastic Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Im going to be tackling the oil pump seal this week in auto. When i went to the subaru dealer the head mechanic said I should put one or two small 5mm washers in the oil pressure relief valve. Im guessing this would boost my pressure a bit i didnt really understand what he was getting at. Has anyone done this or advise against it? Seems like some buckshee mod that may or may not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I never had them in a specific order and they worked out fine I can get specs from GD today on what we used for the lube/grease and stuff. He did say not to let the rockers hit the ground? Now I let one hit the ground :/ I was learning though. But didnt seem to cause an issue, but I wouldnt go playing bouncing rockers off pavement or anything, because they will want to fall out. I think you just don't want to dent them. I was under the impression that the order mattered. Maybe not, I have always managed to keep them in order because I pull the engine and use a stand. With the stand you can rotate the engine all the way around and e3asily keep either side facing up. White grease/assembly lube and sticky lube are the three differnt names that the grease was called. As far as RapidElastic's question goes...the washer idea...it sounds like an effort to increase the tension of the relief valve spring as they can wither over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nncoolg Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Im interested in those solid lifters you made, do you have any photos of how you did it? And What did you mean by the way it run? went better? or worse under 4000rpm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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