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new weber adapter plate is leaking


85wagon
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i bought a weber adapter plate for my ea 82, i couldnt get it tuned myself so i took it to a shop to find out the adapter plate has an air leak....., 50.00 for an adapter plate that i have to take to a machine shop to have them remachine it????? i got it out of washington at carbs direct or somthing like that.... anyone else had this problem and does anyone know the phone number to redline? im not paying a machine shop to take care of some one elses mess up.... im possibly venting and i apologize ... so i guess i will have to unbolt the whole 9 yards and have the machine shop resurface EVERYTHING again sorry for venting...:banghead:

Edited by 85wagon
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i decided im going to pull it all apart and use some silicone of some kind and try and seal it up as best i can, this motor will only have to last me untill next winter, and im gunna go with the EJ 2.2 sadly enough i can work on those easier than i can the ea82 dunno why.

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this is a very known, but not acceptable issue with the weber redline kit.

 

The apapter is a pos... plain out.

 

 

it is not even worry to be in the kit.

 

What a terrible adapter.

 

I hope they read this and address the quality control.

 

Until then, get really thick gaskets and silicon away. Silicon happy...

don't forget to glue, jb weld, etc, the coolant portion on the plate.

bh

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^^ you got it! You could try to use a thick piece of glass and sand paper to resurface it yourself. I use a 1/4" glass on a thick slab of polished marble as I don't trust any surface to not flex. Its not hard and helluva lot cheaper. Its not like its the tool steel I've been surfacing. Use wet dry paper and water, silicone it up good when ready and set the NEW screws you buy (unless you want to re drill for the wrong screws they give you) with lock tight (light duty) and make them TIGHT.

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Ha! good luck getting anything out of Redline! They're lazy and not too interested in helping anybody...I'm not sure they even want to sell parts. My parts guy who deals with them on a wholesale level told me, "yeah, they're d-bags, but they got all the weber stuff"

 

Check your manifold too. When I installed a Weber on my GL, I used a mill file to flatten out the carb mating surface on the intake. My manifold had some hills and valleys I had to knock down, the lowest point being the water jacket. Another thing that can give you hell is when studs or bolts stretch threads out of a hole, not strip, just stretch. What happens, is the threads stretch out and create a shim around the bolt preventing the gasket from seating, but chamfering your holes out a thread or two with a normal 60 degree chamfer works great.

 

After reading about the quality of the Redline adapters and not wanting to deal with their employee's charming personalities, I made my own adapter with $20 of aluminum bar stock and a hand full of bolts. I think I used a 1 1/4" hole saw in a drill press and ported out from there. I also moved the carb back about a 1/4" to help it breath better.

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thank you for the info i wasn't real sure how i was going to fix this, im going to try and get this taken care of today. i will let you guys know how it works out. the saying if you want somthing done right you got do it yourself seems to apply here, it sad that redline cares so little for its customers.... again thank you for the help, this car would be nothing but an idea without USMB and pooparu!!!

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A buddy of mine has a weber and it leaked. He corrected the problem by filling the coolant passage in the adaptpr plate with JB weld. Silicone will eventually fail with teh presence of gasoline.

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got it finished, i used high heat silicone, i wasnt having any coolant leaking outa the passage, the gasket seems to seal it off really well.i gooped it up pretty good, and used medium strength lock tight on all the hardware, woke up this morning and let it warm up and sprayed brake clean around the manifold and weber, as far as i can tell it seems to be sealed.the idle smoothed out but it still acts like its kinda missing when im at a constant speed around 2,000 rpms, but no worries it just has to make it thru the summer and ill put an EJ in it. any complaints on the EJ 1.8?ive read that the 2.2 is a little to much power for the fwd, how much horse power does the ej 1.8 have?

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i figured out the horse power of an ej 1.8

EJ181

Horsepower: 110 PS (81 kW; 108 bhp) @ 6000 rpm

Torque: 149.1 N·m (110 lb·ft) @ 3200 rpm

 

 

ea82 has

Horsepower:

Carb - 84 bhp (63 kW; 85 PS) @ 5200 RPM,

SPFI - 90 bhp (67 kW; 91 PS) @ 5600 RPM

MPFI - 97 bhp (72 kW; 98 PS) @ 5200 RPM

Torque:

Carb - 101 lb·ft (137 N·m) @ 3200 RPM

SPFI - 101 lb·ft (137 N·m) @ 3200 RPM

MPFI - 103 lb·ft (140 N·m) @ 3200 RPM

 

so a gain of 24 horse power

and 9 lb ft of torque

 

 

 

so maybe a 2.0 would be better

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the idle smoothed out but it still acts like its kinda missing when im at a constant speed around 2,000 rpms, but no worries it just has to make it thru the summer and ill put an EJ in it.

 

Its been a while since I worked on my weber, but I think the 2000-2500 flatspot symptom is solved with bigger mains, they're the ones at the bottom of the fuel bowl.

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