1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 I'm trying to narrow this down but this is the 2nd time I've smelled it but inside the car I can smell a strong fuel smell (might be that the window is open) That areas or things should I check? off the top of my head I can think of the gasket for the tank and the evap canister? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Fuel filler tube is a good guess/common problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 The metal part right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Yep. Rots out at the bottom, at the bend, especially of the plastic protector is still on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) yeah when I looked at it when cutting the bolts for my hitch I saw it in the same place where you are talking about (did not get pictures) is it replaceable? *edit looks like it is but wow almost $100 (online) for a fuel pipe :-/ so how much of a pain is it going to be to replace it? Edited May 1, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Dealer only part. Someone on Ebay sells "lifetime quarantee" ones, never tried them. Not all that bad. You gotta start listing the year/model of your car in all these threads. On Outbacks there is much more room to remove the hose at the bottom that an L or GT. Sometimes the 3 screws by the gas cap can be a problem because they are tight or rusty. The one or two b olts in the fender well are usually o.k. - not too bad to get out. You'll need to know what year your car is. IIR around 97/98 the hoses changed due to the EVAP systems being different. A 95 won't work on a 99 for instance. To quote an old commercial arguably "it'll fit, but won't match". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Dealer only part. Someone on Ebay sells "lifetime quarantee" ones, never tried them. Not all that bad. You gotta start listing the year/model of your car in all these threads. On Outbacks there is much more room to remove the hose at the bottom that an L or GT. Sometimes the 3 screws by the gas cap can be a problem because they are tight or rusty. The one or two b olts in the fender well are usually o.k. - not too bad to get out. You'll need to know what year your car is. IIR around 97/98 the hoses changed due to the EVAP systems being different. A 95 won't work on a 99 for instance. To quote an old commercial arguably "it'll fit, but won't match". some parts I will mess with ebay with but not this.. I was just not sure how it connected to the tank.. I've seen inside my 95 wagon this car does have more room to get to it but since I've never had reason until now to remove it what is it held in place with to the fuel tank? To the filler neck it seems to be a rubber hose then it goes to the filler neck? And sorry about not showing the years.. almost all the other Subaru sites allow you to put your year in the profile so it shows under your user name.. It would be a welcome addition here because that's not always the first thing on my mind.. nevertheless the car is a 97 outback wagon I'd have to check the build date since looking up the part I'm seeing at least 3 part numbers for the build dates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 A lot of folks have more than one car. Best to specify all you can when asking for assistance. Year, model, trim level, and engine even doesn't hurt, sometimes tranny as well. There is a short rubber hose between the fuel tank and the filler tude. On an L or GT it's awful tight. The Outback has I'm guessing a 1" body spacer that helps a lot with this particular repair. If you remove the wheel you can see where the EVAP lines connect. You need to find a new one that matches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 So it's just held in by the rubber hose? So hmm the whole tube that enters in the tank is the same tube that does up to the filler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 REREAD from the beginning. 3 Phillips screws by the filler cap, I believe 2 bolts in the wheel well (basically in there by the EVAP hoses), and then the rubber hose at the bottom (IIR short - like maybe a foot long) that attaches filler tube to tank. It's been a few years though, I could be mistaken. Perhaps someone who has done one recently can confirm, embelish, whatever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 everything Dave just said. you need to get the part and just go do it. nothing fancy, no extra parts needed, no special tools. remove, install. it's an easy job. if you did a door lock timer, this is a piece of cake. :lol: have a drill handy or impact screwdriver if the screws are rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 everything Dave just said. you need to get the part and just go do it. nothing fancy, no extra parts needed, no special tools. remove, install. it's an easy job. if you did a door lock timer, this is a piece of cake. :lol: have a drill handy or impact screwdriver if the screws are rusty. haha about that lock timer haha for this year it's right behind the panel under the steering wheel. So about this part is gas coming out or it's just the fumes? I'm not sure if I will get to it before my trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 ^ They're right. I just did one a few weeks ago on my GT (Damn, there's no room to work...). The screws at the top may or may not come out... May as well get new ones from the hardware store when you have to drill them out. You open the gas door, take off the gas cap. Take out the 3 screws in there around the filler. Remove the metal ring. Go into the wheel well. Take off the plastic shield over the filler. Throw it away. Take off the rest of the bolts holding the filler, I don't remember how many, it's pretty obvious. They're hanging out holding the filler on. Remove the evap lines near the top. I found I could slide the hose all the way onto the metal line on the filler to get it out of the way (make sense when you're looking at it). Last, go under the car where the filler goes to the rubber hose to the tank. Remove the hose clamp, work the filler out of the hose. Resist the temptation to heat the hose up to un-stick it When everything is disconnected wiggle the filler out. Put it all back together in reverse order, not too hard, really. Wait till your tank is pretty empty, well below 1/4. Remember that you're working with an open gas tank that's mostly empty and filled with fumes. One spark, static zap, etc will ruin your day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 I'm sure a part like this the dealer has to order i'm not sure if it's worth me trying (they do list price) or order online Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Common failure, gotta be an excellent money maker for them. Wouldn't be surprised if in stock. I only have one used at the present time, and I thinks it's off a 95 or 96 and nothing special. JY hunt isn't usually worthwhile either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 funny mu 95 never had any problems with that but I don't think that plastic part was on it.. I can't remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Just be glad you don't have a 99... they added a valve at the top and those are almost double in price... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 REREAD from the beginning. 3 Phillips screws by the filler cap, I believe 2 bolts in the wheel well (basically in there by the EVAP hoses), and then the rubber hose at the bottom (IIR short - like maybe a foot long) that attaches filler tube to tank. It's been a few years though, I could be mistaken. Perhaps someone who has done one recently can confirm, embelish, whatever. Sounds right to me, we have to change them all the time up here in VT we probably do one a week at the shop I work at. Rust is a wonderful thing... And the screws can be a pain at the top as stated already. Sometimes we have to drill them out in order to get the fill tube out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 Quick picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Sometimes we have to drill them out in order to get the fill tube out.sometimes i DON'T have to drill them out. i don't see any wetness in the photo 1324 but it's gotta be there somewhere. i don't reinstall the plastic sheilds/covers, they just retain moisture/debris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 so are you hinting at it's pointless to put a full tank in? maybe I should keep pumping till it comes up to the tank filler I bet I'd sure find out soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 so are you hinting at it's pointless to put a full tank in?no, i wasn't thinking about that at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 sometimes i DON'T have to drill them out. This I have seen ones so bad that when you take the shied off there's nothing behind them I would start by pulling that off and seeing what's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logic23 Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 Take the cover off and you will see if there's a hole in the filler neck. If not then you are in for the hardest thing on a subaru to replace. You have to drop the whole rear end of car. To add to the problem is that if your tank is rusted out so will the frame bolts that hold the rear end in place. The weld nuts will break loose in the frame. This job sucks don't attempt yourself. Also getting a good tank is real tricky. Most junkyards punch holes in them to drain the gas. If you find a junkyard that has a good tank they will most likely not take it out once they realize how big of a pain it is. I have done three tank replacements. I will never do one again. A rusted out tank is a dealbraker. I now strip off all good parts and scrap out. Sorry to be so harsh just trying to save you a world of frustration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 friken database errors.. anyways I doubt its that bad like you said.. besides I can always look in the tank.. and why not just buy a new tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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