Replacing pulleys, balancer, idler- need advice and part #s

[bstone]

97 OBW AT EJ25

 

Hey folks. In response to a whining harmonic balancer and pulleys and idlers that are begging for change I've decided to bite the bullet and do it. Now that the weather is nice and school is ending in 2 weeks I will have the time.

 

If you all can help be determine the parts and their numbers I would be indebted. I will go OE on this as these are super important parts. I understand that a lot of the parts have been superseded over the years with upgrades parts and I would like to make sure I get those.

 

Does anyone have such a comprehensive list or maybe knows about what I should be looking to replace? Again, it's for a 97 OBW AT EJ25. I've already replaced the cam seals, water pump and t-stat last summer and only put on about 5k since then, so getting one of those kits doesn't seem to apply to me.

Edited May 3, 2011 by bstone

[davebugs]

I believe most of us here use "theimportexperts.com" kits. Look for them on Ebay first - from this specific place.

 

A lot of us replace this stuff every 100k. These have held up well for myself and others.

 

No need for a harmonic balancer unless inspection of it shows an issue.

 

Which brings up another point to make sure you get the crank bolt tight.

[bstone]

The balancer is in bad shape. It's making a high pitched noise and it wobbling bad.

 

I'll check those guys out. Do they have OE parts or their own aftermarket ones?

[davebugs]

Aftermarket but decent. Usually GMB bearings.

 

Best value.

 

I've installed many, many sets and don't know of a failure yet and several have gone another 100k I know.

[idosubaru]

use one of the online subaru vendors if you're requiring subaru parts, they'll have all the right part numbers. shipping varies too much to say "this one is the best".

 

if you're open to non-OEM pulleys, most of us use theimportexperts like dave suggested. some folks get those kits for the reasonably priced pulleys but still install a Subaru belt instead of the aftermarket. i'm about 50/50, just depends how i'm feeling but i defintely don't spend $350 for new pulleys from subaru.

 

there are two different tensioner pulleys, maybe you remember what style yours was from doing the water pump as they changed right around 1997. yours should be the newer style is my guess, like in this picture:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DAYCO-84105-Timing-Belt-Kits-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem2a0f4f1009QQitemZ180645466121QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

that newer style tensioner is more likely to fail than the old style. the old styles fail so infrequently i don't even replace the tensioner, just the pulley. on the new style, replace the entire tensioner assembly.

 

since you're doing the work yourself it's not a bad idea to consider just going back in at 50,000 miles and inspecting everything. at 15+ years old and a 105,000 mile change interval with a lot of miles it's not a bad idea if it's free labor.

 

harmonic balancers don't typically whine? i'd also replace that with a used one, there's more likely items to fail than that and it's easy to replace.

[bstone]

Which one of their kits would you recommend? This is the link that I am coming up with:

 

http://www.theimportexperts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1997-Subaru-Legacy--.5--Dohc--4wd-Engine--Mechanical&yearid=1997%40%401997&makeid=SU%40%40Subaru&modelid=LEG-4WD2.5-001%40%40Legacy+2.5+DOHC+4WD&catid=A%40%40Engine+Mechanical&subcatid=A5006@@Timing+Belt+Kit&mode=PD

[bstone]

Found an OE balancer for less than the guys above:

 

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=4919

 

plus I can pick it up so no shipping cost.

[bstone]

Guess what I just found sitting in the corner of my apartment in a box labeled "Subaru Parts" and in smaller boxes labeled "Subaru Genuine Parts" with the Subaru logo:

 

13073AA142 IDLER CP-BELT

13069AA063 TENSIONER ASSY

15010AA300 OIL PUMP AY ENGINE

 

 

It appears I already have at least 2 of the pulleys/idlers I need. Can you all help fill in the gaps of what I will need to finish this?

[idosubaru]

subaru has a website opposed forces, find it and look up the part numbers you need.

[bstone]

I'll check there. Thanks for that.

 

One thing I'll need to do is identify what parts I actually need. How many idle tensioners, etc. Just now sure how many of what I actually need.

[johnceggleston]

fyi: if the h balancer fails before you get to replacing it you will likely need a valve job which includes head gaskets, in addition to a timing bet job.

 

i would replace all the front seals, (from subaru, the seals are about 30$ online plus shipping)

2 cam oil seals

1 crank oil seal

1 oil pump o-ring

1 tube of anerobic sealer (or RTV ultra gray) to re-seal the oil pump (RTV is about 7-8$ at the parts store)

 

plus , (from theimportexperts)

1 timing belt

2 idlers, smooth

1 idler, toothed

1 idler, tensioner (98s used a one piece unit that is expensive, hopefully yours is the old style with the idler separate from the tensioner. much cheaper.)

 

also consider,

2 valve cover gaskets, a little pricey

1 pcv

plugs and wires, maybe

Edited May 3, 2011 by johnceggleston

[bstone]

Ok I got my list of part numbers. Here it is:

 

13073AA142 Idler Pulley-smooth (2)

13085AA080 Idler Pulley w/teeth

13069AA063 Tensioner Pulley

13068AA051 Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster

 

I already have

13073AA142 Idler Pulley-smooth (1) and

13069AA063 Tensioner Pulley

 

Will need:

13085AA080 Idler Pulley w/teeth (1)

13073AA142 Idler Pulley-smooth (1) and

13068AA051 Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster

 

and the balancer, all of which I will make an order in a few minutes.

 

Regarding the seals, the engine was resealed last summer with all new cam, crank, HG, oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Also did OE plugs, OE wires and OE coil pack. Also did PCV valve. At the time I should have done the pulleys and tensioner, but I didn't. I plan on getting this all done ASAP.

[johnceggleston]

Ok I got my list of part numbers. Here it is:

 

13068AA051 Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster

 

 

don't get the tensioner. replace it only if it is leaking, and they either work or they don't. if it's not leaking it is most likely still good. this part does not fail often.

 

compare your surbaru part cost for ''the ones you need'' to theimportexperts for the whole kit.

[bstone]

don't get the tensioner. replace it only if it is leaking, and they either work or they don't. if it's not leaking it is most likely still good. this part does not fail often.

 

compare your surbaru part cost for ''the ones you need'' to theimportexperts for the whole kit.

 

Is that because the tensioner rarely fails? The one in there is the original with 220k miles.

[idosubaru]

Is that because the tensioner rarely fails? The one in there is the original with 220k miles.

i already wrote about this in a previous post, but it depends which tensioner you have.

 

simply put:

new style - definitely replace it.

old style - rarely fails.

 

the older style (two piece) very rarely fails. but at the same time if you're replacing that much stuff for hundreds of dollars it almost seems funny to leave a part on there that's got as many miles on it as from here to moon on an interference engine.

 

if you have the newer style tensioner (in the link i posted earlier in this thread), i wouldn't even think about keeping the old one, they fail too often at low age/miles (relatively speaking). very common. you can do a search on here for failed timing tensioners and find multiple threads....the funny thing is they're almost always the new style...ironic since they usually have fewer miles and less age.

 

you can swap to the old style tensioner if you buy the bracket behind it. buy that bracket and you can buy a new old style (more reliable) tensioner. i have extra brackets just for this purpose. my daily drivers will never have the new style tensioners if i can avoid it, i've seen too many fail and never seen the old style fail.

[davebugs]

And the new tensioner assy is much more money than jsu thte idler for the old style.

 

No matter which if you're re-usig the tensioner read here how to compress it.

[bstone]

Got it with the tensioner. I have a "split year" car. Some of the parts are 96 (like the coil) and others are 97. The manufacture date was like Jan 97 or Dec 96, so I think I have the old type of tensioner. Do you think it's worth it to replace it with the new tensioner (and get the bracket) seeing as it has 220k miles on it?

[davebugs]

You never install a new stype on purpose. I mean switch TO a new style

 

If you have old style, consider yourself lucky as far as durability and cost to replace, and ability to replace only the idler.

[bstone]

Copy that. Good to know.

[idosubaru]

I think I have the old type of tensioner. Do you think it's worth it to replace it with the new tensioner (and get the bracket) seeing as it has 220k miles on it?

you don't *replace* the brackets, noone ever does that, it's just a piece of metal. you'd have to replace a lot of parts if you replaced everything that was metal on an engine.

 

yes i think it's worth it to replace the tensioner and in your case it would be plain silly not to. given the mileage, interference engine, and everything else you're putting into this. if you're that concerned about going OEM, then it's humorous to leave a quarter million mile tensioner in there when you're replacing every other conceivable part.

[bstone]

you don't *replace* the brackets, noone ever does that, it's just a piece of metal. you'd have to replace a lot of parts if you replaced everything that was metal on an engine.

 

yes i think it's worth it to replace the tensioner and in your case it would be plain silly not to. given the mileage, interference engine, and everything else you're putting into this. if you're that concerned about going OEM, then it's humorous to leave a quarter million mile tensioner in there when you're replacing every other conceivable part.

 

*nod* It shall be replaced.

[Fairtax4me]

TheImportExperts can put together a kit of OE brand timing parts for about 1/2 the cost that a Subaru dealer would charge, even the online places.

Just have to give them a call.

They do not, as far as I can tell at least, carry the OE brand water pump. You should be able to get a Subaru pump from one of the online dealers for around $65-70 + shipping.

 

 

Unless the crank pulley has failed (the two sections are separated), there is no real reason to replace it. Save the money.

[bstone]

Here's an experience is the local parts dept vs an online OE dealer (who has a store not too far from me, so I can save on the shipping)

 

Part Local (CitySide Subaru) subarupartsforyou.com

13085AA080 Idler Pulley w/teeth (1) 81.82 62.00

13073AA142 Idler Pulley-smooth (1) 74.95 56.00

13068AA051 Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster 149.95 99.00

PULLEY CRANKSHAFT, BOLT & KEYWAY FOR 1997-2009 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5

179 145.00

Total: 485.72 362.00

 

 

I think it's pretty obvious who I will be buying from. $123.72 difference in price for the same exact parts. Holy Moses!!!

[idosubaru]

I think it's pretty obvious who I will be buying from. $123.72 difference in price for the same exact parts. Holy Moses!!!

i ask dealers to match the online pricing and they do. i've done that with at least 3 dealers so far and all have obliged. actually did it last week while i was traveling out of state. needed some parts and was passing a dealer so i stopped in since the dealer close is on the other side of town. i asked and they did it.

 

the difference is roughly 20% between online and dealers.

[The Dude]

Here's an experience is the local parts dept vs an online OE dealer (who has a store not too far from me, so I can save on the shipping)

 

Part Local (CitySide Subaru) subarupartsforyou.com

13085AA080 Idler Pulley w/teeth (1) 81.82 62.00

13073AA142 Idler Pulley-smooth (1) 74.95 56.00

13068AA051 Hydraulic Tensioner Adjuster 149.95 99.00

PULLEY CRANKSHAFT, BOLT & KEYWAY FOR 1997-2009 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5

179 145.00

Total: 485.72 362.00

 

 

I think it's pretty obvious who I will be buying from. $123.72 difference in price for the same exact parts. Holy Moses!!!

 

The most of the guys advocating the Ebay kits have a lot more experience with Subarus than I do, so I'm not going to debate with them.

 

However, the Ebay kits are not an apple to apple comparision with factory parts. The Subaru pullies have two bearings. The Ebay pullies only have one bearing. Personally, I feel better having the pullies with two bearings.

 

$123.72 is cheap if it prevents a timing belt meltdown. Are Subaru timing parts less likely to fail? Who can say, there isn't enough data. But I will say that 105,000 miles is a pretty lengthy timing belt/ timing component replacement interval. I'll be replacing all the timing components on my 2006 Forester next month. I have 105,000 miles on my Forester and I bought all genuine Subaru parts, at discount, naturally. Maybe when I have 210,000 miles on my Forester $123.72 in my pocket will look more attractive.