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1992 loyale coolant worries...


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This here manual non-turbo seeeeeeems to have some coolant (ONE drop!) hanging out near the head gasket area. I have no oil in coolant or vice-versa. There is a tad around the lower tb cover where the h2o pump is, so I think I at least have some weepage and should replace the pump soon (though, no coolant loss really).

 

WOndering if anyone knows of a potential "further-up" source that may have trickled coolant down to the head area...? Having a hard time tracing, fearing it might be coming from the HG itself...

 

And on another point, it recently started dripping more oil onto the exhaust after a bit of driving...before it was a couple drops and I could smell it and maybe see a bit of smoke, but recently its seems like 3x's as much, and there's a small plume of smoke...this only happened when I let the oil get low because I was going to change it soon, which I have done. Has anyone experienced more leakage/drip-and-burn-smoke when letting the oil level get low? Weird, or just more of a leak than before...I'll be driving 2 hours tomorrow, and then I'll see where the drip/smoke level is.

 

Thanks!

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Def. the water pump. If it was the little hose under the intake, it would run down the top and back of the motor. The oil on the exhaust pipe is likely the valve cover.

 

The head gaskets do not leak externally like the newer engines do. First clue to a bad HG will be steam in the tailpipe, or bubbles in the radiator.

 

Fi the water pump now, and service the timing belt and cam seals.

 

Lose the inner and outer timing belt covers, and your future maintenance will be infinitely easier

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Thanks MilesFox! You sir are on the ball...

 

Dang, all that stuff (TB, h20 pump, seals etc.) just got done like 10k ago. I suppose if I do the pump I might as well do the Tbelt and...Which seals would I do? Ahhh, I know how to use the search button...

 

What are the dangers of having the covers off from now on? Debris? Fluids? How likely would a rock fly up in there, snapping the belt? I'm into the idea, as the life of the car may not exceed the weighted risks.

 

The valve covers definitely aren't leaking. They seem to be the most visible culprit, and they look clean and dry. It seems pretty central, like something up above the center part of the crossbar. Maybe the back screws of the pan aren't tightened enough? I just gotta dig around.

 

Oh, and does anyone know where to find torque info for the bolts on the manual trans block? I've been VERY slowly leaking red tranny fluid and i found the/a bolt where its dribbling from.

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Thanks MilesFox! You sir are on the ball...

 

Dang, all that stuff (TB, h20 pump, seals etc.) just got done like 10k ago. I suppose if I do the pump I might as well do the Tbelt and...Which seals would I do? Ahhh, I know how to use the search button...

 

What are the dangers of having the covers off from now on? Debris? Fluids? How likely would a rock fly up in there, snapping the belt? I'm into the idea, as the life of the car may not exceed the weighted risks.

 

The valve covers definitely aren't leaking. They seem to be the most visible culprit, and they look clean and dry. It seems pretty central, like something up above the center part of the crossbar. Maybe the back screws of the pan aren't tightened enough? I just gotta dig around.

 

Oh, and does anyone know where to find torque info for the bolts on the manual trans block? I've been VERY slowly leaking red tranny fluid and i found the/a bolt where its dribbling from.

 

running open belts is fine. the belts are more likely to fail from oil and coolant that from random debris. Pluus, if you do a belt change later, save yourself the labor of pulling the crank pullet. This also allows you to service the water pump without removing covers.

 

oil pan can be leaking in the rear. Also if your car is MPFI, there is a breather plate that may be leaking.

 

red fluid, i maintain, is coming from the steering system, possibly a pinhole leak in the steering rack hardlines.

 

Unless someone put ATF in the trans, there is no explaination for the red fluid. If the trans was leaking, it would be leaking from the driveshaft, axle stubs, or shifter seals, or drain plug(crush washer)

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run open belts. it's awesome.\covers themselves can be risky, they can get pushed into belts and hoses...it's just such a minor risk that it's benign.

 

i saw a loose timing cover pushed into a trans hose and cause it to leak...so i've seen more failures due to running with timing covers than without. i wouldn't suggest it's "riskier" to run with covers, but just relaying how insignificant this is. it's not rocket science.

 

replace your PCV valve - it can reduce crankcase pressures (Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) and maybe (if you're one lucky dude! :lol:) slow the oil leak. it's a couple dollars and easy to replace.

 

"manual trans block....bolt...red fluid"...i'm confused. manual transmission shouldn't have ATF which is red, so you're running aftermarket fluid or it's not a manual trans, i don't know. and what do you mean by "block" - you typically don't tigthen block bolts...if you mean the engine block, which you don't since you're talking about transmission stuff.

 

low oil shouldn't leak more. one scenario i could imagine, that seems unlikely: it's low...therefore it's cycling more often...therefore the oil is getting hotter....thinner....maybe it is leaking more.

 

i have seen EA/ER series external headgasket leaks. it is rare and unlikely but i've seen it before, ironically on the rear side of the heads like the newer EJ's do.

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Rad! Those covers are coming off...

 

Pcv valve will be replaced, as I do consider myself one lucky guy. But, I will be getting a tb kit along with the water pump, so I can replace any seals that I see as leaky...usual suspects?

 

So, it is a manual, and it must be aftermarket fluid in the tranny because it is red. It does smell strong like trans oil, maybe synthetic. Sorr for the inaccurate word choice: there is a bolt on the lower portion of the tranny that I saw a weep coming from, and I was able to give a half turn with pliers...

Questions now are: is aftermrkt red grease bad news?

 

Can I replace the water pump but not the belts, if they look good and the seals aren't wrecked?

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Guy at Oreilly's says his computer tells him that ATF is supposed to be in the trans. Guess its fine...

 

Gonna rip the timing covers off (maybe leave the back one...?) and inspect the o-ring of that lower pipe on the h2o pump. I have a feeling the pumps good, just that ring needs replaced. Gonna do the oil pump gasket, I think, since its $5, as long as its accessable...? But the Cam seal is a $90 two-piece item from the lone carquest here in interior AK, so i have to wait...unless its gross and gushing, then i spose I'll have to get at it.

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I got my cam seals for 6 bucks each right from the subie dealer in town.

 

I'll bet they are 90 bucks with the distance they have to travel, and probably board a bush plane to get there, i would imagine.

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Ha! MAybe there's an extra tundra charge...

 

Whelp, I went ahead and put in a new h2o pump, and crossed my fingers (things DID look great under there, no weeping seals (obvious at least)) that the job done 10k ago will be good for now (oil pump seals, crank seal, t-belt "kit"). We'll see how my 'new' pump holds up. 1/4 mile and no trouble so far!

 

And the oil drippin on the muffler; I thiiiink it was coming from the oil pan! The screws, all of them, easily turned from 1/2 to 2 rotations! They were so gingerly torqued way back when that it started leaking (my theory), so we'll see if that stifles the smoke. A long phillips got to the screws under the cross-bar...with a little angle-ing. What was this I read about having to jack the car up...?

 

Still red fluid in my tranny, smells like trans syn grease, not atf. But fuh-get that guy at oreillys anyway.

 

OH! And now without TB covers, she a look-a sooo-a sexy-a!!! Fun to watch them go round and round...

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