goms187 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hello, this is my first post. I just bought a 95 two door impreza a couple weeks ago. Shortly after i started getting the blinking AT oil temp light at start up and the next day started noticing the torque binding. Anyway im replacing the duty solenoid and im stuck at removing the rear housing!, all the bolts are out but i cant get it to budge. Any suggestions? I called it quits at about 3 hours in tonight when i couldn't get the housing off, its my second car so no biggie, just figured it was time to quit before i broke something. Any input appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 You mean you took off all the bolts from the transmission extension housing? Make sure you got them all- some are really up there and a pain to get out. Get a drain pan underneath as you're going to lose several quarts of trans fluid when it comes off. Take a thin screw driver and just start slowly prying. Be gentle but use gentle force. Also get some Red Permatex and new gaskets for the housing and solenoid. This is a good opportunity to reseal the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 more than likely you're missing a bolt, that's a good assumption to make. some light taps in the right spot should get it to come off, i don't recall any every being that difficult to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 The alignment pins can be come pretty corroded and make it hard. Make sure you have removed the speed sensor on the right side or you will damage it when you pull it out. If you search this form, there are some good posts with pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 11 or 12 bolts.?? 11 i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camaro98 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 I just tore down a core transmission (to remove front diff and pinion, anyway) for practice, and that tailshaft gave me a little bit of trouble, too. What I did was alternately whack each side of the tailshaft with my mini-sledge until the seam opened up enough to get a flat-head screwdriver in there and pry it apart. On mine, the clutch pack had a tight fit on that "cup" attached to the large transmission gear. If you try the hammer trick, use a block of wood against the tailshaft case to avoid damaging it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goms187 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 I have 11 bolts i pulled out, i think thats all of them, the speed sensor is out as well. I think the guide pins are just holding it together. I'll try tapping alternating sides with a hammer and see how that does. I was able to get a putty knife in between sections to get it open just far enough to let it drip out over night. I have the seal for the whole rear section and two for the actual valve. Does that sound right as far as seals? Does anyone know torque specs for putting it all back together? Thanks again guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Specs say 21.7+/- 3.6 ft lbs. So lets say 22 O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goms187 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 ok so got everything back together on the trans and was putting the drive shaft back on and noticed i couldnt turn the rear wheels and spin the drive shaft like i could when i took it apart. Is this normal? or did i screw something up in the rear extensions? I dont want to put power to it and hear something snap or something in the rear extension. I dont know if the fact that all the fluid is out makes a difference. this is what i get for buying an automatic, should of stuck with manual.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 if at least one rear wheel is up off the ground you should be able to turn the drive shaft by hand, or at least the wheel that's up. what did you do inside the housing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goms187 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 damn,put in a new duty c solenoid, could it be that spring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 is the hand brake on??????????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goms187 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 haha no i wish!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goms187 Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 so i just took it all back apart and all i did was back it off alil but not off the guide pins until i could spin the output shaft and then tightened it back up and now the output shaft spins???? was it just not seated just right or what would cause this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 that's a new one on me, i have no idea. that was brilliant to notice the rear wheels first. did you completely remove it or just back it off a little then back on? you feel confident you got all the bits back in the right places? those couple of little arms/springs or whatever that fall out are kind of annoying when they just drop out. this is what i get for buying an automatic, should of stuck with manual....don't sweat it, auto's are actually as reliable or arguably less maintenance than manuals now. manuals have torque bind and input shaft bearing issues and require being pulled for new clutches....and auto's are lasting far longer than their predecessors a couple decades ago. i like both, but auto's can be advantageous these days. torque bind is often "caused" by improper tire maintenance, towing, or fluid changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goms187 Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 i took everything back off, and then just backed the rear extension off a little, not all the way. and tried to spin the output shaft and at first it didnt move so backed it off a little more and then it started to spin, i was satisfied that it was atleast spinning so just kept checking it as i tightened everything up... i dont really get it myself but no more torque bind and no more flashing at oil temp light on startups.... not sure if i still have awd but i guess ill find out when winter comes or i happen to have the front end off the ground... Thanks for the help guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 good job, way to tackle it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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