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Broken water pump bolt


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While trying to remove the water pump, I twisted the head off of the top left bolt that supports the timing bracket. All the other bolts are out and I can wiggle the pump, but can't get it to slide off. The broken bolt seems to want to wiggle with it. What to do?

 

In the box with new pump was two slightly different gaskets and a key, but what for?

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not sure what a "timing bracket is"?

 

so you're saying the only bolt left holding the water pump on has the head sheared off? spray some PB blaster or other penetrant up in there to work it's way through rust/corossion. heat is your friend if you have a propane (or better) torch, use it. you want to heat the pump housing, around the stud and not the bolt stud itself.

 

i'd keep wiggling it until it comes off. water pump housing is aluminum, shoudln't be hard to wiggle it free.

 

get something behind it to pry it off or tap a chisel behind it to gradually work it out?

 

all of this of course making sure you're not damaging any mating surfaces.

 

drill the water pump housing, cut it with a dremel tool, chisel the bolt hole of the water pump until it cracks? yo'ure replacing the water pump anyway so just crack the housing until it falls apart and comes off?

 

the last resort is to drill it out, i'd want as much of the stud of the bolt to remain since you're going to have to get that out.

 

i would want to weld a nut to the remaining bolt that's left to get it out. those can be a nightmare to remove.

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gary, he is referring to the timing mark specific to xt's, its a little plate that bolts near the crank pulley.

 

I had this happen once, and i was so brave to weld on a longer bolt, grind it down, and use it as a stud.

 

If you remove the crank pulley, you can remove the timing belt cover for better clearance. That, or just break off that tab from the belt covers so you can do this work without removing them.

 

My opinion will tell you to remove all the covers, and this makes a belt change go down in 20 minutes vs 2 hours the next time.

 

If you can get the pump off, try a vice grip, heat, and pb blaster.

 

the trick with little bolts is for one, to not over torque them, hand snug and 1/8 turn with a 1/4" drive ratchet will do, and when removing them, the trick is to not twist the bolt faster than it can unscrew. SLOW EVEN TORQUE will get them out

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i have like 4 XT's including an 87.5 turbo. :lol: apparently my mind is failing me. do you mean the timing marks molded into the timing cover or I'm forgetting something?

 

in one way it seems like he means the timing cover....but then in another way it seems like he means the water pump is "all the other bolts are off and i can wiggle the pump"....he's talking about the pump?

 

the pump is wiggling....but it's a bolt that holds on a timing mark?

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I'm at work right now, but yeah, it's an angled piece of metal that is bolted to the water pump by the top two bolts. The left one I twisted off at the head so welding a nut on it should work. Ill try heating the pump tomorrow and let you know how that goes. I also twisted off the head of the ac bolt in the engine head. That one will need to be drilled. Thanks for the input, guys.

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And yes, I removed the front covers and they are staying off.:) The timing belt looks like it was replaced not that long ago and is not oily, so I think I'll wait till I decide to replace it to remove the back covers and replace the cam seals that appear to be leaking.

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This is what I was calling the "timing Bracket". I brushed it with a piece of chalk so you can see it better. It goes in increments of 5 up to 25 degrees.

2011-05-09001724.jpg

 

You can see the broken bolt in the top left hole.

2011-05-08140724.jpg

 

Look at how much hay and dead grasshoppers fell out when I pulled out the radiator!!!!!:eek: The stuff on the belts is just my cigarette ashes.:cool:

2011-05-08140211.jpg

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i would wail on that old water pump with a chisel until it breaks off. who cares about the old pump, you're replacing it anyway.

 

as for the a/c bolt - it's been awhile since i've done an EA82 but i've often left a/c bolts out because sometimes they have way too many anyway...4 or 5 bolts to hold the a/c bracket and compressor is way overkill. so if you have at least 2 or 3 other a/c bolts i'd just forget the one that sheared.

 

if there's any stud left, weld a nut to the top of it to get it out. that works really well and is much quicker than drilling sometimes, worth a shot.

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OH man, do i not get tired of seeing ea82 timing belts. yummy

 

you know, that is the same blt i broke on one of my first soobs. You should be able to get it off. I would try to drill just a little bit to smooth down the broken end of the bolt, and slide it off. LEave enough of the bolt to grab onto.

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if the drivers side looks as new as the passengers, i'd leave it for awhile as well. with the covers off it's going to be easy to change anyway.

 

in the future get the ebay kits so you have new bearings. at this point the beings in the pulleys are just as likely to cause the belts to break as they are to break by themselves.

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Looks like someone beat me to the lower drain bolt:lol: Where should I get a new lower plug and o-rings for the plugs?

 

2011-05-09145125.jpg

 

This is kind of how the 10" fan model# G4902 from Summit will look on the radiator. The destructions say to run the zip ties through the radiator.:-\ I was thinking, for now, just running some gianormous zip ties through the original mounting holes. Or maybe some safety wire till I can get my hands on some scrap aluminum.

 

2011-05-09145229.jpg

 

....And a little off the subject while I'm uploading pictures... What do you think about these 15"x6" wheels on a 4wd xt with 2" blocks on 2wd xt struts on the front and 2wd xt struts on the rear?

 

Does it look like the offset is going to cause rubbing issues with 215/75-15" tires? The price is right and I may be picking these wheels up in a few days.

 

3n63m53l65Z15R65S4b44ba5016023c8311e9.jpg

2010-11-05152244.jpg

 

It's extremely windy out, so I'm a little hesitant to play with fire right now..

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This probably the most extension/compression I've ever had on the car. I normally don't drive like this, but I know I'm going to want to when I do put big tires on it.:slobber:

 

I could see the rear tires hitting the fenders If I tried big angles like this though.:-\ How different would it be without the sway bars? Worse? Should I forget about the shiny offset wheels and keep looking?

 

2010-11-05151111.jpg

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post in the parts wanted forum for the drain plug, someone will gank one from a radiator laying around. im' out of town or i'd offer.

 

or they're probably rather generic? the parts stores won't show any cross references for Subaru XT drain plugs (or they didn't when i looked for one years ago), but i bet they're generic thread/size.

 

i had 16" subaru wheels with almost 2.5" larger diameter than stock xt6 tires (which are already larger than stock XT tires). or 3" larger diameter than stock XT turbo tires. i ran 215 60 16 tires so far is the most on the XT6 with no issues yet. those tires fit prior to the lift, but it now has a 2" lift.

 

here's the XT6 with those wheels/tires and lift:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101434&highlight=picture

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Nice! Looks like yours sits at least an inch higher front and rear than my car. Did you drop the engine/trans/rear end? If not, how were your axles? Do you still have it/drive it?

 

Here's another pic of those wheels, if that helps. I think I'll get them, and if I have rubbing problems, either sell/trade them, or drop everything and go higher.

3n83ma3p85T45U05X3b4445068011cff01626.jpg

 

Well, I let the that pesky water pump bolt soak for a few days, heated it up with a torch, beat it with a hammer, and pried it off with a big dull screw driver. What a pain! The bolt came out with the twist of a sharp vice grip. The ac bracket mount bolt in the engine head won't budge, so I stopped before I chewed it up too bad. I'll try welding a nut on it next.

 

Here's what else was in the box with my "new return" water pump.:mad:

 

2011-05-11181048.jpg

 

The thing in the bag is what I would imagine to be a rubber gasket to seal between the pump with the timing belt cover.(throws in trash)

 

Not sure which gasket to use....surely not both?

 

Here's how I strapped the fan down. As long as the zip ties don't get pinched at the bottom, it should be ok.

 

2011-05-11181403.jpg

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I bought the wheels. I had to travel a little over 100 miles to get there...but they look nice! The guy said they were off of a Mitsubishi. I rubbed a bit on a spot with what looked like light surface rust, and it cleaned to a mirror finish. I put a straight edge to the edges of the stock rim and hooked a tape measure to the inside of the rim and measured 1 inch. 2.25 inches on the Mitusbishi wheels, but they have a fatter lip. So I would guestimate somewhere between 1-1.25" wider.

 

The guy also threw in four CB radios with two mics for ************s and grins.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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