superu Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 (edited) So I have a 95 legacy with EJ22 and 5MT, cable-actuated clutch. Great car, lots of posts and pix and and elsewhere, blah blah blah. I lost reverse about 6-7 weeks ago. It started with a weird sort of whining, then sort op rubbing, then BIG BAD thunking! It kerchunks the whole front end and makes the front wheels pop and jiggle whenever I tried to back up. So I don't do that anymore... I got a 99 OB 5MT and rear diff to swap into i0t, A: for reverse and B: (a long-time want) for the 4.11s. I've pulled the rear end and tranny (boy that's fun, since I've never done that before) My rig is cable-driven clutch, the 99OB tranny was behind an EJ25 and was hydraulic-clutch driven. I swapped the clutch cable bracketry from "old" to "new", swapped the shifter stay rod from old to new, swapped the VSS from old to new, swapped the throw-out bearing fork from old to new, and repositioned the pivot ball in the 99 for the cable fork, no problem. The starter mounting bolts in my 95 have a pass-through nut and bolt on top with a stud and nut on the bottom. The 99 starter was held on with 2 pass through bolts, ergo the bottom hole is NOT threaded as it is in my 95 5MT. problem But here's the latest catch, the 99 output shaft is like 55mm for the throw out bearing and the 95's was like 53mm, so I'll have to use the 99 OB bearing.. So, since I have it all apart anyway, and my 2 year old clutch got fried (trying to position a pop-up camper) last year, I need a new clutch anyway. So are my questions. Do i get a clutch kit for a 99 OB with 2.2 or 2.5? Do I need a flywheel for a 2.2 or 2,5? I'll make a thread for this swap too... but until then I'd love some input from the crowd who's put an EJ22 in their 96-99 Outback, or anyone who'se put a gen 1 OB tranny in their gen 2 legacy running an EJ22. Edited May 11, 2011 by superu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 O.K. edit... I have more info now.... either clutch kit would work for my rig, either the 99 OB kit speced for a 2.2 or the 99 OB kit speced for the 2.5 (both are in stock at my local car quest), BUT with identical part numbers (as per the guy looking up hte parts), the one spec'd for the EJ25 is like $40 more... At any rate, i found my bearing inner diameter difference. Apparently the quil (the shroud from the bell housing that the bearing rides on) has been retrofitted with a steel sleeve which changes its diameter from 33mm to 35mm... So I'll just reuse the bearing that came with the tranny and buy the EJ22 spec'ed clutch kit for $161... And i should be good to go... Can verify that the clutch kit spec'd for the EJ25 is in fact stronger than the one spec'd for a 2.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 both cars use a push-style pressure-plate. So yea, either one would work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 both cars use a push-style pressure-plate. So yea, either one would work. Cool, do you (or anyone) know if the clutch kit spec'd for a 99 OB 2.5 is "stronger" than a clutck kit spec'd for a 99 OB 2.2? The carquest guy said all the part numbers were the same, but the 2.5 was like $40 more..... If the 2.5 IS stronger (for the 30+ more HP), then I'd go for it, but if they're the same and it's a badging scam, then I'll go cheaper @$167... thank chux... BTW, I still need to respond to your last PM, from like a year and a half ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 The OEM part is stronger. The '99 Legacy FSM shows 992 lb of clamping force for the 2.2, and 1,213 for the 2.5. But because they're interchangeable, it's likely that aftermarket companies have superseded it with the same part. This could be a good thing. As it probably means that in the interest of only making one part, they're all made to the slightly stronger spec. So if it's the same part number, in a brand you trust, it probably doesn't matter. For example, Beck/Arnley lists the same clutch kit part number for EA82ts and XT6s, even though the '6 was a stronger clutch from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 oops....double post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Just use a clutch kit for a '98 2.5 RS. That will give you what you need and the best possible clamping force. Best brand is OEM - Exedy is second. Exedy is usually cheapest off Amazon lately. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Just use a clutch kit for a '98 2.5 RS. That will give you what you need and the best possible clamping force. Best brand is OEM - Exedy is second. Exedy is usually cheapest off Amazon lately. GD That sounds good! I'll check prices, although I already bought the one spec'd for 99 OB with 2.2 (again) from carquest last week. @$167 +tax, it seemed fine, compared to the same pack spec'd for the 2.5 at $240ish. . . The guy there's used to me returning stuff though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I can get you the part # for the retrofit throwout bearing, I put the sticker that came with the quill kit on my dad's car and it has the replacement part number on it. The steel quill sleeve is a huge improvement over the aluminum mistake subaru made. EA transmissions all had steel snouts, then they combined that part into the case casting on the EJ's. Dumb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 I can get you the part # for the retrofit throwout bearing, I put the sticker that came with the quill kit on my dad's car and it has the replacement part number on it. The steel quill sleeve is a huge improvement over the aluminum mistake subaru made. EA transmissions all had steel snouts, then they combined that part into the case casting on the EJ's. Dumb. Hells yeah! The bearing that came withthe tranny seems fine, so I was planning on reusing it, but a new one would be better. I saw that sticker on the car and didn't know enough then to know what it was describing....but NOW I do! My parts store can't get the oversized throughout bearing alone. Standard bearing alone yes, oversized only omes with the WHOLE clutch kit, and at a primium cost.. Is it a Subaru part number? thanks man, -mark- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Well damn, it doesn't have a generic part #, though I think it's a toyota part. Here's what the sticker says: "Order replacement bearing TSK1-B Smart Service 206-417-0880" It's $53 from Sumo parts. The quill kit was probably installed recently, so the bearing you have probably doesn't have much mileage on it. I'd reuse it if it spins smoothly and feels tight. Probably had a new clutch in the donor car too, if you could go back and grab that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Well damn, it doesn't have a generic part #, though I think it's a toyota part. AMS (the makers of most OE clutch kits, and supplier for carquest) said the toyota bearings are less than ideal as they don't fit the clutch fork retaining spring. BUT the newer kits have a Subaru-appropriate bearing that fits the spring correctly. this is what I'm told. Here's what the sticker says:"Order replacement bearing TSK1-B Smart Service 206-417-0880" That's cool, where did you get that sticker? was it part of your retrofit kit? When i saw that on this outback, I didn't know what it meant and considered taking the sticker but forgot to grab it when I got into taking out the rear end. It's $53 from Sumo parts. The quill kit was probably installed recently, so the bearing you have probably doesn't have much mileage on it. I'd reuse it if it spins smoothly and feels tight. Probably had a new clutch in the donor car too, if you could go back and grab that. Sumo parts huh? I'm not familiar with that one. But What you say makes sense about reusing the old bearing. This one fits the retaining spring, spins WAY better than my 2-year old exedy bearing (which was missing one retaining spring for the fork and doesn't fit the retrofit quill sleeve anyway) The clutch went with the engine the day before I saw and responded to the "part-out" ad, so I had not chance on getting the clutch too BUT I've got a new clutch anyway, and today's goal is get the tranny back in the car... I'll deal with my rear diff upgrades later when I get the right axles to make that happen. AMS also said there is NO [physical or capability] difference between the 15-010 clutch kit (spec'd for 99 OB with EJ22, also spec'd for my 95 legacy with EJ22) and the 15-040 clutch kit (spec'd for 99 OB with EJ25... Well really that's the kit for ALL NA EJ25 5MT Subarus). He said the difference was a minor and meaningless OE specification difference of approximately 1/4" inner diameter difference in the clutch cover's spline opening. NO HP or torque capability difference, identical clutch, throwout and crank bearing part numbers. SOOO, for a $40 difference in price, I got the kit spec'd for the EJ22 (which is what theis OB tranny will be behind anyway Updates tonight, hopefully :thumbs up: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) success.... I buttoned it up a couple days ago, then after some hill holder and clutch cable adjusting. I took it for a spin! I reinstalled skidplate today and will take it on a trail run tomorrow (long canyon in Moab). So, here's my report: clutch kit spec'd for an EJ22 (carquest 15-004) and the oversize bearing that came with the OB tranny was my final setup... I took it for a drive today and here's the quick and dirty... 4.11s are awesome!! Mine are paired with 27" tires = fantastic!!! I don't really notice a difference in the seat, but I sure do notice the difference in the shifting, more accurately the LACK of downshifting on grades I couldn't pull previously without downshifting in the stock 3.90 FD with 27" ATs. EJ22 with 3.90 FD, 70 MPH @ 3000 RPM (Actual speed 75MPH but VERY weak 5th gear with respect to hills!) EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 65 MPH @ 3000 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 70 MPH @ 3250 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 75 MPH @ 3500 RPM EJ22 with 4.11 FD (99 OB 5MT), 80 MPH @ about 3750 RPM 5th has more pull (a confound or combination of 4.11 FD with the shorter OB overdrive ratio (.871 vs. .780) than the stock setup with oversize tires. I think all in all it's deffintely more like what stock would be, save the higher top end on the interstate... But I have no need to go 80 MPH (I'm not in my late teens through mid 20s anymore. So, that's my story and m I'm sticking to it! Edited May 27, 2011 by superu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Good stuff Superu! This makes me confident in the use of the 4.11 diff ratio in a gearbox build that I'm still gathering parts for. Glad it all came together and is doing what you hoped it would do. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renob123 Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 I'm glad it worked out for you. You only lost a whopping 100rpm at 70mph. Jacob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted May 27, 2011 Author Share Posted May 27, 2011 (edited) Good stuff Superu! This makes me confident in the use of the 4.11 diff ratio in a gearbox build that I'm still gathering parts for. Glad it all came together and is doing what you hoped it would do. Cheers Bennie Yes Bennie, I highly recommend it, especially with your 1.59 low swap but given the choices for your box, check your 5th gear ratio... Apparently OB 5ths here (at least 1st gen OBs (96-99 here)) had .871 whereas foresters, some impreza RSs and my 895 legacy (not too sure about other earlier ones) had a .780 5th. So just a thought about overdrive gears... That .780 might be a better highway gear but it might not have much oomph for slight (5-6%) grades... Just a thought. Now I'm able to climb stuff I couldn't pull with 3.90's and that's with NO low gear!! this is about as far as i could pull this hill with 3.90s and 27" tires but just the .21 difference of 4.11s I pulled the entire hill and with some power left!! I'm working on cutting a couple video to upload... But, I'm still looking for a D/R EJ 5MT to import, but now I can put that on the back burner and really wait until the one I want comes around (97-98 fozzie). I'm glad it worked out for you. You only lost a whopping 100rpm at 70mph. Jacob Well, 250, but who's counting? It's not too bad overall, and 3500 RPM doesn't feel as bad as i thought it would, so no probs doing 75 on the interstate, if I need to. AND I have a WAY more powerful 5th!! Where I used to have to downshift [on the highway] for hills and grades to make it up are no problem in 5th, at speed, even with a/c on!! I'm psyched! OOH, and now my speedo is pretty accurate too! Now instead of 5% under, it's about 1% over, so it reads a % or so faster than I'm actually going... Edited May 27, 2011 by superu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renob123 Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Yes Bennie, I highly recommend it, especially with your 1.59 low swap but given the choices for your box, check your 5th gear ratio... Apparently OB 5ths here (at least 1st gen OBs (96-99 here)) had .871 whereas foresters, some impreza RSs and my 895 legacy (not too sure about other earlier ones) had a .780 5th. So just a thought about overdrive gears... That .780 might be a better highway gear but it might not have much oomph for slight (5-6%) grades... Just a thought. Now I'm able to climb stuff I couldn't pull with 3.90's and that's with NO low gear!! this is about as far as i could pull this hill with 3.90s and 27" tires but just the .21 difference of 4.11s I pulled the entire hill and with some power left!! I'm working on cutting a couple video to upload... But, I'm still looking for a D/R EJ 5MT to import, but now I can put that on the back burner and really wait until the one I want comes around (97-98 fozzie). Well, 250, but who's counting? It's not too bad overall, and 3500 RPM doesn't feel as bad as i thought it would, so no probs doing 75 on the interstate, if I need to. AND I have a WAY more powerful 5th!! Where I used to have to downshift [on the highway] for hills and grades to make it up are no problem in 5th, at speed, even with a/c on!! I'm psyched! OOH, and now my speedo is pretty accurate too! Now instead of 5% under, it's about 1% over, so it reads a % or so faster than I'm actually going... Ahh, right. I forgot that the speedo changed. Jacob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 nice work. what is the retrofit, quill, sleeve stuff all about? i've been around boards forever and have never heard mention of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Apparently OB 5ths here (at least 1st gen OBs (96-99 here)) had .871 whereas foresters, some impreza RSs and my 895 legacy (not too sure about other earlier ones) had a .780 5th. From this I'm guessing that you're running with the .871 5th gear ratio? Best bit is that the 5th gear ratio is easily interchangeable between the EA and EJ gearboxes. What I'm aiming for is the same as what you have shown above in your pics of revs vs vehicle speed - 62.5mph (100kmph) @3250rpm and ~70mph (110kmph - victorias highest legal speedlimit) @ ~3500rpm is too high for the EJ22. I get better economy at 62.5mph than at 70 - so aim is to drop those revs to get better economy and have the car behave more like it does with the liberty in stock trim... And as for your search for a gearbox, give these guys a message via their contact page, they're currently wrecking several foresters. http://www.sunspares.com.au - no guarantees but worth a try. If worse comes to worst I could pull a DR EJ box and send it over - you'll just have to get some tricky bit sorted in terms of a single range 4.11 foz box and have the upper gearsets pressed off the donor box and onto the DR box's upper shaft that incorporates the low range Dunno what shipping will cost, but a box at a "U pull-it" style wreckers would be about $300. My gearbox build so far is near $1000 before it's been put together, I've still got to look into bearings (got a thread about that - some not liking my idea of fresh bearings), maybe a front LSD ($500ish) and then a low range gear oiling system for those long steep climbs as I don't want things drying out on me! Add in the cost of an EJ DR gearbox for it's casings to bolt straight up to the EJ22 + a gearbox for the L series low range - then it's all really starting to add up, but should be worth it. EJ cased L series low ranged AWD with centre diff lock and 4.11 ratio diffs will be totally awesome offroad with 27 inch tyres to run. It'll be near stock gearing when running 27's Last is to pay a guy to get the tolerances right and I should be sweet. SOOO can't wait - I've only been collecting parts for about 3 years! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 nice work. what is the retrofit, quill, sleeve stuff all about? i've been around boards forever and have never heard mention of that. The "quill" is the part of the Aluminum bellhousing that surrounds the inputshaft of the tranny where the throwout bearing rides. So apparently that can get some wear, steel bearing riding on Al shaft can lead to wear on the Al part.... THIS they've designed a retrofit sleeve (steel) to fit over the worn quill and provide a steel surface for the bearing...problem is now it's an oversize outside diameter shaft for the bearing, so they designed an oversize bearing to fit onto the steel sleeve. BUT you can't get JUST an oversize bearing.... It's part of the whole clutch kit.... so (as far as i've been able to figure) to get an oversize bearing, you need to get an entire clutch kit which comes with the oversized bearing = MORE $$... Can't just get a $164 clutch kit plus an oversized bearing... the oversized bearing clutch kit is like $240. . . At any rate, here's the retrofit sleeve on the quill (fitted on my 99 OB 5MT) And here's the quill from my 95 5MT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 From this I'm guessing that you're running with the .871 5th gear ratio? Yes, I didn't open the boxes or pull off the rear casing to fiddle with 5th gears.... later replies indicated that it's a big mess to get into that, even though the 5th gear is in the rear case and you don't have to mess with opening the main case... Word was they did some changing in 99 (my new gear box) and bearings, tollerances, races, etc might not have been interchangable with my old 95 5MT... What I'm aiming for is the same as what you have shown above in your pics of revs vs vehicle speed - 62.5mph (100kmph) @3250rpm and ~70mph (110kmph - victorias highest legal speedlimit) @ ~3500rpm is too high for the EJ22. I get better economy at 62.5mph than at 70 - so aim is to drop those revs to get better economy and have the car behave more like it does with the liberty in stock trim... YES!! good call, you'll be very happy once you get your dual range 5MT with 4.11s and the GL low gear figured out.. You're doing a center diff lock too right?? Isn't that then an open center diff when not locked? How does that behave in normal operating conditions compared to a Viscous center diff, like if you were in rain or snow (now that I know you have snow where you are curious. . . And as for your search for a gearbox, give these guys a message via their contact page, they're currently wrecking several foresters. www.sunspares.com.au - no guarantees but worth a try. If worse comes to worst I could pull a DR EJ box and send it over - you'll just have to get some tricky bit sorted in terms of a single range 4.11 foz box and have the upper gearsets pressed off the donor box and onto the DR box's upper shaft that incorporates the low range Dunno what shipping will cost, but a box at a "U pull-it" style wreckers would be about $300. My gearbox build so far is near $1000 before it's been put together, I've still got to look into bearings (got a thread about that - some not liking my idea of fresh bearings), maybe a front LSD ($500ish) and then a low range gear oiling system for those long steep climbs as I don't want things drying out on me! Add in the cost of an EJ DR gearbox for it's casings to bolt straight up to the EJ22 + a gearbox for the L series low range - then it's all really starting to add up, but should be worth it. EJ cased L series low ranged AWD with centre diff lock and 4.11 ratio diffs will be totally awesome offroad with 27 inch tyres to run. It'll be near stock gearing when running 27's Last is to pay a guy to get the tolerances right and I should be sweet. SOOO can't wait - I've only been collecting parts for about 3 years! Cheers Bennie Thanks for the heads up on the fozzies.. I'll drop them a line... If you can get me a Dr EJ box, as you alluded to, "If worse comes to worst I could pull a DR EJ box and send it over -" I assume you mean a liberty or something that's 3.90??? thus all the chat of, "[having] to get some tricky bit sorted in terms of a single range 4.11 foz box and have the upper gearsets pressed off the donor box and onto the DR box's upper shaft that incorporates the low range" to get 4.11s in a cheaper dual range EJ tranny? Keep in touch Bennie, so far you've become a most reliable and consistent connection with the southern hemisphere! There are a few others too, but circumstances have been such to make them have to back out :-\. . . Ciao! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 YES!! good call, you'll be very happy once you get your dual range 5MT with 4.11s and the GL low gear figured out.. You're doing a center diff lock too right?? Isn't that then an open center diff when not locked? How does that behave in normal operating conditions compared to a Viscous center diff, like if you were in rain or snow (now that I know you have snow where you are curious. . . That is correct about the open centre diff when not locked. It should be alright I reckon - at the very least it has to be an improvement over the full time 2wd situation. In the snow I would probably lock the centre anyway as we usually drive in 4wd when the road conditions are icy. No salt over here Thanks for the heads up on the fozzies.. I'll drop them a line... If you can get me a Dr EJ box, as you alluded to, "If worse comes to worst I could pull a DR EJ box and send it over -" I assume you mean a liberty or something that's 3.90??? thus all the chat of, "[having] to get some tricky bit sorted in terms of a single range 4.11 foz box and have the upper gearsets pressed off the donor box and onto the DR box's upper shaft that incorporates the low range" to get 4.11s in a cheaper dual range EJ tranny? Keep in touch Bennie, so far you've become a most reliable and consistent connection with the southern hemisphere! I'm not sure if you've contacted sunspares yet. I asked them on your behalf as I was enquiring about a set of foz seats with the gucci arm rest for Ruby Scoo. The answer they gave about shipping OS was that they simply don't do it. I don't think it would be worth purchasing one, sending it across australia to then have me send it in your direction. I can easily get you a stock DR gearbox or two from either a Gen 1 (3.9 I think) or Gen 2 (occasionally show up in yards and I'm pretty sure these are 3.7 diff ratios). The trick would be working out how to send it to you as I've never done it before. And it would have to wait until near the end of the year as I can't do much from the top of the mountain - it's pretty much a remote part of Australia when it comes to organising what are usually simple things! We get mail twice a week!! As said, you'll have to do the rest of the build from your end - the hardest part for you is getting the EJ dual range casings. You'll need a 4.11 foz box and an L series box for the good low range. Then some fun with a grinder on the crown wheel. More can be read about that here. Some things will be different for you but this will be a great guide to help you get started. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 That was a good read and has got my interest.. But I am not so inclined to go into all the mechanics of it.. Love the idea but if I tried the car would neve move again. Soooo I will just have to watch n see how this turns out. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 That is correct about the open centre diff when not locked. It should be alright I reckon - at the very least it has to be an improvement over the full time 2wd situation. In the snow I would probably lock the centre anyway as we usually drive in 4wd when the road conditions are icy. No salt over here I'm not sure if you've contacted sunspares yet. I asked them on your behalf as I was enquiring about a set of foz seats with the gucci arm rest for Ruby Scoo. The answer they gave about shipping OS was that they simply don't do it. I don't think it would be worth purchasing one, sending it across australia to then have me send it in your direction. I can easily get you a stock DR gearbox or two from either a Gen 1 (3.9 I think) or Gen 2 (occasionally show up in yards and I'm pretty sure these are 3.7 diff ratios). The trick would be working out how to send it to you as I've never done it before. And it would have to wait until near the end of the year as I can't do much from the top of the mountain - it's pretty much a remote part of Australia when it comes to organising what are usually simple things! We get mail twice a week!! As said, you'll have to do the rest of the build from your end - the hardest part for you is getting the EJ dual range casings. You'll need a 4.11 foz box and an L series box for the good low range. Then some fun with a grinder on the crown wheel. More can be read about that here. Some things will be different for you but this will be a great guide to help you get started. Cheers Bennie Hey Bennie, so their response to my inquire was this, "Hi Mark, We will need a VIN number as there are several types and they do not interchange We also need a delivery address so we can calculate freight Kind regards, David" So isn't remote and Australia a redundancy? j/k Yea it seems rediculous for you to ship it to you then you to figure out how to ship it back to the coast then to the states then to southeastern Utah... I'm pretty remote here (an hour and a half from the "big" town of 60,000), but at least we get mail daily and like 3 million visitors/tourists a year. . . :0 At any rate.. Yes, a 4.11 dual range 1.44:1 5MT out of a 97-98 fozzie would be great.. It's would be bolt-on EJ dual range and pretty sweet. while not the ideal 1.59:1 reduction of a gl (which I can source here readily and cheap), a 44% reduction would be a WHOLE lot more low gear than what I've got now!!! THEN if that isn't enough I could always drop it again and go for the GL/EA82 low mod as you mentioned... So despite my researching (which has yielded a lot of good info) and efforts, I haven't scored a dual range EJ 5MT yet, but I know what to look for and what would work, and what I'd need to do with the available optiopns over there. So, my 1st choice would be a 97-98 fozzie out of an EJ20, second would be any fozzie 99 and later or outback with an EJ25 ( i think those had 4.11s). other than tha any good but cheap dual range5-speed AWD. Then I'd swap front diffs (for the 4.11s) and my soon to be LSD rear 4.11 diff. So, given their response to you and what I expect to hear back, i think the wrecking option you directed my inquiries to is done, but a good step and help which I thank you for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 We will need a VIN number as there are several types and they do not interchange PM taza on ausubi for his foz VIN, but I think that's a 2001 model, still the 2L that you're after though. What I think they mean by "they do not interchange" is "We're just covering our arses so nothing gets put back on us" as we all know the subarus are like lego. You just have to know what bits you need and what bits you need to swap out to match the first bits you need Clear as mud?? Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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