Overheating... awesome :/

[knor91]

So I've posted on here once or twice before and gotten ********************* remarks from people who think they knew what they were talking about (turns out they had no idea) and I'd appreciate it if this post got some feedback from people who aren't complete jerks.

 

Moving on...

 

I am so Subaru expert- I'm learning really slowly. So, here's the problem I have that I can't seem to figure out.

 

I've had my manual 1991 Subaru for about 3 years now, and I've never really had any problems up until a few months ago. First, I had to replace my alternator. Then I had a bad battery, so I replaced that. Then something went wrong with my fuses and I had to replace the fusible link- all minor issues. So a few weeks back I am driving across town and my car suddenly overheats. I've never had any overheating problems with it in the past. I was going across town, at a speed of about 25 mph, and the temperature gauge started to rise fairly rapidly. Well it got to almost the very top and I decided to pull over and let it cool down for a few, and then continue on home. I've only tried to drive it twice since then, and both times, its overheated within like 5 minutes of being driven (or even idled). I went outside to check it out today since its finally nice out, and I can try to work on it, and I discovered there is some sort of fluid underneath the car, on the drivers side. I know this isn't much info to work with, but heres the bottom line: It overheats every time being driven, my heater blows cool air when on, and there seems to be a leak coming from under the car near the drivers side.

 

I've been doing my research and have decided there are a billion things that could be wrong with it. Some forums say head gasket (which I dont think it is) some say water pump, radiator crack, radiator leak, thermostat, hose leak, etc. I just want some opinion on my exact post, because I haven't been able to figure anything out thus far, and I just want my car to run. I DONT plan to take it into a shop unless absolutely necessary because I've been screwed out of so much money from the mechanics in my area. They are all awful.

 

I just want to know how I can check whether it's some sort of blockage, or the water pump, or whatever else you all may think it is. Some opinions would be great. Thanks in advance

[johnceggleston]

confirm that the leak is in fact coolant.

 

then top up the coolant level and ''burp'' it to get all the air out. (let it idle w/ the rad cap off until the temp gauge reads normal then top it up and put the cap on.) let it idle in the drive way and look for where it is leaking. the large hoses should be pretty obvious. the water pump is behind the timing front cover on the driver side. but there are smaller heater hoses and other stuff that are hard to see.

 

once it low on coolant it may start to ''hiss' or ''steam'' from the leak, but not for sure.

 

when the coolant in these engines gets low, due to a leak for instance, it can create an ''air lock'' that prevent what little coolant there is from circulating. this will cause your heater to blow cool air. no coolant is circulating through the heater core.

[gbianchi]

A billion things, nope!

A leaking water pump will drip from the drivers

 

side of the motor, when the cooling system gets

 

low enough the heater will blow cold and overheat is next.. A leaking

 

head gasket will perculate coolant into the

 

overflow tank, filling it, when the coolant gets

 

low enough the heater will blow cold and overheat is next. A stuck

 

thermostat will prevent coolant flow and cause

 

over heat. All hoses need inspection both cold and after heating up, as some only leak under pressure, overheat is a direct result of low coolant level, so watch the level find the leak fix and drive, hope this helps, your in the right place for help, just be patient....G

[MilesFox]

I vote for water pump, as this is typical symptom, the impeller corrodes and loses efficiency. The water pump will leak when the bearing goes bad. IT's best to change the water pump and replace the timing belt also(if it has not been done recently. What willhappen is the water pump will drag or seize, causing the timing belt to melt or break. Take confidence in that your motor is non-interference, which means if the belt lets go, there is no damage, just install a new timing belt.

 

The first generation legacies are more rubust than the later model engines, as the syptoms associated with later model head gaskets is related to later model engines, with MLS gaskets, whereas the first generation ej22e has composit head gaskets, like the older subarus always had, and do not fail in the same manner as later model engines.

 

So long as you have not cooked your motor, do the water pump and see if it improves. If further diagnosis puts you into a head gasket repair, at least you have new WP and TB. So long as doing the repairs are worth your investment.

[Fairtax4me]

Bad thermostat and/or low coolant.

What color is the "fluid" under the car? What color is the coolant in the radiator? Is there any coolant in the radiator? (probably not if it's all on the ground )

 

Find the source of your leak. Thermostat seal, lower radiator hose, bypass hose, are all easy to get to. A bad water pump gasket is a bit more involved. (timing parts come into play)

[Cougar]

From what you stated about the symtoms of the trouble I believe you have a headgasket problem. Pressure is causing the coolant to overflow, its overheating and the heater core is being blocked. These are all classic symtoms of a headgasket failure sorry to say. Have a block check done to confirm this.

[GeneralDisorder]

Pressure test the system, replace thermostat, radiator cap, and coolant and any suspect hoses. Your problem is either one of those or a head gasket. Do the easy stuff first.

 

GD