What the !@#$ is wrong with my clutch cable?

[stiwanabe]

I bought the brat with a supposed trans problem. Wouldnt go into first, barely went into other gears without grinding. I put some washers under the clutch cable adjuster and problem solved.

The pedal didnt feel too good though so I put a new cable on it. Only had to set the adjuster half way and it felt like brand new. Two weeks later it started acting up so had to bottom out the adjuster on the new cable. Fast forward another two weeks to today and Im at square one. The pedal feels like crap, its hard to push in and it wont go into first and grinds going into every other gear like the clutch will not fully release.

I wasnt aware that clutch cables were disposable and only lasted a month so Im at a loss for what the real problem is.

[BrianAbington]

It's possible that the cable fixed the issue before but now your clutch or throw out bearing maybe shot

[stiwanabe]

It's possible that the cable fixed the issue before but now your clutch or throw out bearing maybe shot

it had a new clutch with <1,000 miles on it when I bought it. Something is starting to make me think they installed something wrong. I just took the cable off and took the boot off the clutch fork and the thing is just wobbling all over the place.

[MilesFox]

maybe the presure olate is shot, or the fok popped off its little ball socket

[brumby420]

mine did this before and it went back to the cable being bad. does it make any difference whether your in 2wd or 4wd?

[4x4_Welder]

What year? Before 83 had a weak pedal box, and the clutch cable mount would tear away. If you replace the pedal box with a 84+ box (EA82 is the same) and use an 84+ Brat cable, you won't have any more issues.

The pedal box is available new from Subaru for about $80, minus the pedals.

[GeneralDisorder]

Your cable is probably routed over the steering linkage or heater core hoses. it should be under both or premature failure will result.

 

GD

[stiwanabe]

What year? Before 83 had a weak pedal box, and the clutch cable mount would tear away. If you replace the pedal box with a 84+ box (EA82 is the same) and use an 84+ Brat cable, you won't have any more issues.

The pedal box is available new from Subaru for about $80, minus the pedals.

It's an 86

[Twitch de la Brat]

Lube it.

Mine was acting up similarly and I had removed it twice and rerouted it as well and it was still really stiff and a pain to push.

I sprayed some cable lube I had lying around into the uppermost end (the end

that goes attaches to the throwout fork) and the problem went away.

 

Also, you may have to drill a hole in the U bracket that attaches the cable to

the pedal.

Mine was binding only giving me half the throw I needed.

Drilled a hole halfway down closer to the cable and it no longer binds and I get

full pedal throw.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Twitch

[stiwanabe]

Lube it.

Mine was acting up similarly and I had removed it twice and rerouted it as well and it was still really stiff and a pain to push.

I sprayed some cable lube I had lying around into the uppermost end (the end

that goes attaches to the throwout fork) and the problem went away.

 

Also, you may have to drill a hole in the U bracket that attaches the cable to

the pedal.

Mine was binding only giving me half the throw I needed.

Drilled a hole halfway down closer to the cable and it no longer binds and I get

full pedal throw.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Twitch

the stiffness is not the real problem. The problem is that it is not fully disengaging the clutch when fully depressed, thus the grinding going into gears. I have to keep adjusting it further and further down to get the clutch to work. I now have it bottomed out with a 1/4" spacer...

[gbianchi]

had a similar situation at one point turn out the fork was cracked, had to replace it with j/y one all better, bummer huh?................G

[Twitch de la Brat]

the stiffness is not the real problem. The problem is that it is not fully disengaging the clutch when fully depressed, thus the grinding going into gears. I have to keep adjusting it further and further down to get the clutch to work. I now have it bottomed out with a 1/4" spacer...

 

Do you have the clips that hold the cable in place on each end?

Your cable sleeve may be moving if those clips are missing.

It does sound a lot like my second solution, drilling a hole in the U shaped bracket that attaches the cable to the pedal.

I highly recommend unhooking the cable from the throwout fork, to allow smooth operation of the pedal without interference, and sliding under your dash to see if the bracket is catching and not allowing a full throw out of the pedal.

I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the pin closer to the cable and ran my pin through right there.

If you have an aftermarket cable, I highly recommend looking at where it connects to the pedal, as this is probably a very common interference point.

 

Twitch

[stiwanabe]

Do you have the clips that hold the cable in place on each end?

Your cable sleeve may be moving if those clips are missing.

It does sound a lot like my second solution, drilling a hole in the U shaped bracket that attaches the cable to the pedal.

I highly recommend unhooking the cable from the throwout fork, to allow smooth operation of the pedal without interference, and sliding under your dash to see if the bracket is catching and not allowing a full throw out of the pedal.

I just drilled a hole slightly larger than the pin closer to the cable and ran my pin through right there.

If you have an aftermarket cable, I highly recommend looking at where it connects to the pedal, as this is probably a very common interference point.

 

Twitch

thanks, ill have to check near the pedal tomorrow but I already had the cable completely off under thyroid good and it felt pretty smooth.