Loki Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 So I just bought this 92 Loyale (1.8 l SPFI) AT. 143 k miles. The oil pan gasket is leaking... will be dropping oil pan and replacing gasket... The oil pressure gauge is reporting nothing. Maybe wiring issue... wanted to know if anyone had trouble with oil pressure sensors. Also the battery is draining with the car off. Alternator is new and charges battery fine. I wonder if anyone has any experience finding electrical leaks... like a short that is happening with the car off? Thirdly, after the engine warms up, she doesn't want to idle... When I accelerate, the power seems OK but she makes a bit of a puttering sound. THe guy who had the car before me changed the spark plugs w/out doing the wires too. I have new wires to put on, so I was going to test for a missing cylinder while I was doing the changeout. Last, the drivers side window cluster doesn't work.... Was going to pull the door panel and clean connectors to start with.... Any ideas would be appreciated... anything I am not doing that I should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Shut off the car, connect up an ammeter (multitmeter) and measure the drain. Then pull fuses until it goes away. Once the bad circuit is found, trace through it to find the bad component. If it doesn't, then disconnect the alternator. You could have a bad alternator, with a shorted diode. It will still work OK when charging, but will drain when shut off. The clock and the radio always consume some current, but it isn't much. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loki Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Ok stupid question... I know how to measure volts, resistance, and connectivity... So which setting do I use to measure drain? Would it come up measuring amperage? Thanks for the input though.... Thanks in advance for a reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Ok stupid question...I know how to measure volts, resistance, and connectivity... So which setting do I use to measure drain? Would it come up measuring amperage? Thanks for the input though.... Thanks in advance for a reply Yes, you would be measuring amperage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Ok stupid question...I know how to measure volts, resistance, and connectivity... So which setting do I use to measure drain? Would it come up measuring amperage? Thanks for the input though.... Thanks in advance for a reply switch the positive lead to the other hole if yours is like that, or turn the dial to the amps. You connect it between the battey cable and the battery post in between. The meter will be fused, so if you do this with everything on at the same time you might blow it. The oil pressure wire may be loose, it comes down the font of the motor along the dipstick tube, from the intake harness. Otherwise, it is normal for the oil pressure to read near zero during idle, and operate towards the 40 psi mark. the poor idle at temp would be clue to the engine temp sensor. on spfi, this is the one with 2 wires on the thermostat housing. On mpfi turbo, it is on the back of the intake near the turbo the puttering sound is probably an exhaust gasket. the best cure for that is new studs, if the old ones come out with the nuts when changing the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Here is a link with information on how to find a current drain. http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loki Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 OK so for all who are interested. Changing SP Cables seemed to make a difference... until the car warms up... then the idle drops way low... but not dying anymore. Checked the sender signal from battery to oil pressure sensor... had voltage (Like 14). decided to pull the oil pump, clean it, check it to see if it is within spec. The leak from what I thought was the oil pan gasket seems to be mostly up around oil pump anyway. Got halfway through getting the timing belt off then had to quit. Is the best way to get the crankcase pulley off with a sprocket tool? seems like that would put a lot of tension on the TB... oh well I am pulling it anyway... If i mess it up I can always put a new one on.... Always fun to learn by doing it wrong the first time. Will post about progress here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 If you are saying you measured the voltage between the positive side of the battery and sensor wire then that is not what you want to do. You want to measure between the sensor wire and ground. It sounds like the wire may be grounded out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RapidElastic Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I got my crankcase pulley off by using a impact socket on a breaker bar and resting the bar on solid piece in the engine compartment then went and turned the key just for a split second. Starter motor loosened it good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loki Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 well, a screwdriver in the timing hole worked like a charm. Now I am having a hell of a time getting the Passenger side timing belt cover off. all of the bolts are spinning freely in their housings.... I am going to have to break it off. Oh well... So now I realize I have a blown head gasket after draining the oil. Found very small particles of coolant in the oil. I hadn't seen any bubbles in the coolant reservoir tho. any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 I think I have about 6 or 7 sets of timing belt covers now. If they come off I never put them back on. As per a Miles Fox recommendation, toss the covers. Without them you can do a timing belt job on the side of the road in minutes if needed - you wouldn't even have to take the crank pulley off. Heads gaskets are actually really simple on EA82's. I have done them with the engine in and out of the car (much easier out). Diagnose it fully before you spend the time and money though. Unexplained coolant loss, overheating, mayo under the oil cap and in the filler tube, excessive white smoke at startup are some of the symptoms I have seen. If you do the HG's...I have had good success with Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets as they don't need to be retorqued, just cranked up to 5-10ft/lbs over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Oops, double post...mod feel free to delete this one! Or everyone just ignore it and scroll down. Edited June 7, 2011 by man on the moon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 The crank pulley requires a 22mm socket. To get it off I put the socket on a breaker bar, stick the breaker bar in a pipe, and set the pipe on the ground or solid piece in the engine compartment--make sure it is pointing to the driver side. Crank the engine for a second or two (you can hear when the bolt releases--the engine will groan, then spin). You can then undo the bolt with your fingers and the pulley just sort of drops off--no puller needed unless you are trying to get the toothed gears off. Chilton's suggests 70ft/lbs (69-76 iirc) to put it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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