msmithmmx Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Hello all, Its been awhile since posting. I failed PA inspection with a bad rear wheel bearing. My OBW has 230K and has never had any rear suspension work. I was able to to get every bolt apart with some PB blaster and my 600 foot pound impact wrench. The problem... I am unable to get the axle seperated from the rear knuckle. I thought I would just remove the axle from the rear diff so I could get more leverage to beat that thing out and I see no way to remove like I do the front axles. I did a search and I did not find anything. Any one know how to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 (edited) Last time I did this I just put a 2x4 on the axle and gave it a whack with my 5lb sledge. Came right out. You might want to squirt a little penetrant on the splined part of the axle and rap on it a bit with a hammer just to try to shake any corrosion out. Don't whack it too hard, though; if you peen it over you'll never get it out and frankly will probably end up having to replace the axle altogether. For what it's worth, way back when I first got my car I had to have an axle and spindle replaced because the axle froze to the spindle. No amount of pounding or even torching the poor thing got it out. It was stuck. EDIT: Eh, never mind. You probably though of that. I read your post and then though of something else entirely. Moral of the story, don't post when too tired. Edited May 29, 2011 by SchwarzeEwigkt Stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 they just pop out of the rear diff, held in with a circlip. just yank and they come out. a press, puller, or heat are probably what you need to get it out. they get insanely tight. much pounding at all on the axle will render the axle nut threads useless. good luck, these can be frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Grossgary, thanks.. two yanks and out the axle came come the rear diff. A bad wheel bearing may have now turned into a nuckle/hub/bearing/axle replacement. Where is the best location to apply heat? any tips to try and save the threads on the axle when beating it out? A few subaru's ago I tried a 20 ton press on this same type of problem and it would still not pop out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 in my experience there's no way to pound the axle out without destroying the threads on the axle. if it's a bad one it's going to need more than that can give it. stuff soft enough to protect the axle (wood) just splinters before the axle even thinks about moving. threading anything on the threads also destroys them because of how much force it's going to take. but i live in the rust belt too. 20 ton press.....i'm not surprised based on some of the ones i've messed with. i would think a press - brute force/proper tool method - is the way to go...but you're saying sometimes that doesn't work. what a mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 I am going to find a garage on Tuesday with a huge press. If it does not work I will looking for used parts. I had some parts in the garage. All I need is the axle and dust shield for the knuckle. I banged that thing to death and it did not budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadhp1 Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 We used to have massive problems getting the axles out of the hubs...then we bought a heavy duty impact hammer, and a set of bits. There is a dimple in the center of the threaded end of the axle, that's where you use the impact hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 A big brass hammer can help keep the end of the axle in usable shape. Hold the brass hammer against the axle and pound on it with a mini sledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 (edited) I tried this tractor trailer repair shop near me. It was no match for a 55 ton press. It was separated in no time. While I was there he took apart the whole knuckle for me. He had to take his welder to the inner race. I understand how bearing jobs can get so expensive. Great ideas above, I will keep this in mind. Edited June 1, 2011 by msmithmmx more info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Will modest hammering (2-3 lb hammer, no serious damage to axle end, softwood or aluminum spacers worked) to remove and reinstall rear hub communicate any damage to differential end? Axle was not removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 I would not adivise any serious pounding with the axle in the diff. Sounds like you are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Will modest hammering (2-3 lb hammer, no serious damage to axle end, softwood or aluminum spacers worked) to remove and reinstall rear hub communicate any damage to differential end? Axle was not removed. It shouldn't unless you keep pounding on the end after it pops loose from the hub. The inner CV joint on the axle allows enough play for the outer end to move an inch or so without applying any force to the other end of the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Probably OK for removal, then. But it took pounding to reinstall the hub, still with the axle in place. Now, there is major prop aircraft-like noise increasing with road speed, 10 - 30 mph, not affected by serpentine steering to load/unload wheels. so I wonder if I broke gears in the diff . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I put the original knuckle back (original bearing) and the major new noise went away. Evidently I got a bad knuckle from the private breaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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