eppoh Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Anyone know what that adjusting screw on the steering rack is used for? I saw it in the parts diagram for my 2000 O/B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 rack and pinion backlash adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Thanks. Have you ever adjusted one? Would excessive backlash account for clicking in the rack, when moving the steering wheel back and forth slightly? New tie rods made no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 nah, it's pretty rare for subarus to have steering rack problems. i've never seen it and only heard of it like once. if adjusting that screw helped something more ominous is probably up with it. have you crawled under to hear where the clicking comes from during the turning? it's not the steering rack ujoint? those fail sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Definitely in the rack. Not the mount bushings ( although there is like a 1/16th in movement0 not the U joints., I adjusted the backlash on my Mercedes years ago. Different kind of box, but same concept. Took care of the wandering problem right away. I can't find the adjustment screw on the actual rack now. I saw it in a diagram somewhere. As I recall the procedure on another rack was to loosen the lock nut, turn the screw until it got tight- usually an 1/8th to 1/4 turn, then back off a tad and tighten lock nut. If only I could see the screw on this one, I'd try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 it's down by the drivers side below the ujoint thing - where the steering shaft passes into the cross member - somewhere around there. it's on the steering box there. i saw a comment once that the rack had to be removed to replace the spring inside of that adjustment screw. personally i didn't believe the entire rack had to come out but that was from a dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 I'll have to look later when I can get at it. Any backlash adjustment would have to be made with the rack in the car, other than the initial setup. I did find something on the Forester board about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Did you remove the inner tie rods as well? I see a lot of people replace the outers when the inner ones are shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Inner tie rod changed, really didn't need it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Inner tie rod changed, really didn't need it though. The inner tierods may seem ok, but unless they are extreemly tight they may need replacing. Don't mess with the backlash adjustment as that is for a factory adjustment. In the old recirculating worm and ball system it could do some wonders. Clicking, did I miss something? May I have a better description of the who what when where and why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Yep, clicking, clinking- clacking... whatever. It makes noise inside the rack when the steering wheel is moved a few degrees back and forth. Notice I said 'inside the rack", so it is not the U-joint or the tie rods, It doesn't really matter anyway, since the backlash adjustment is not accessible with the rack in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Have any freinds? Have someone move the wheel back and forth while you listen for the noise. Jack up the car and wiggle a wheel back and forth to see if you hear the noise. Usually subaru racks fail by leaking, not by mechanical failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Read the post above yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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