General chaos Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 (edited) 1993 sub legacy sedan. i think it is a fwd. it has the fwd fuse box on the passenger coil tower. i recently had the radiator out. i lost a slight bit of fluid when i started the car with the coolant lines disconnected fromthe radiator. when i go tthe car running again. i was being rushed and didnt refill the trans fluid. i forgot. oh honey hurry we are going to be late. shut the f up. ok so we drive it 45 miles one way. no problems. except fuel gauge. i think that is a different probelm completely. ok so we are on our way home. 41 miles. and we get a hard lockup of some sort for a few seconds. i tell my wife to slow down. she does but doesnt. fing acehole. she speeds back up. slow dowN! it does it again before she slows down. then i hear a quick metal to metal squeal. and the hard lockup for a second. this was the third hard lockup sound and slwoing of the car in those few seconds. i tell her to pull over. i check the trans fluid and sure enough i had forgot to fill it back up. it was barely touching the tip of the dip stick. ok so i had half a quart we put it in either before or after we tried to drive off. either way the car wouldnt move at all. in any direction. we walk home 4 miles. it took 1 1/4 hours. we got my truck went to the store bought more mulitpurpose atf. it said subaru use on the bottle. walmart brand. we fill i tup and we are able to drive the car home. but it revs a slight bit higher before it will drive. we have not had reverse since this has happened. we have tried and tried. and still no reverse. is this a servo or solenoid that we can check or replace. or is this a hard parts problem? EDIT: we were doing 65 on the highway when this happened. also the torque bind we thought we had. went away with losing reverse. no more hopping going around the corner. Edited May 31, 2011 by General chaos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 (edited) bump Edited June 3, 2011 by General chaos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 I laughed out loud a few times by how you write! Sorry about the trans, but you're frekin hilarious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 (edited) only chance it may have is dump in a bottle of trans x, but metal squeal isn't a good thing...:-\ also my old 93 with 4eat had no reverse. for like a year i went without. then one day, i had no 4th, then a week later i had no 3rd... my advice, is look for another trans (5mt ) and park creatively for now Edited June 1, 2011 by Ricearu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 (edited) bump Edited June 3, 2011 by General chaos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 new symptoms added. well some of this is not new. what happened right as this broke down. was that now every time we go to put the car in gear we have to use the shifter release button. i don't know why. we got pulled into a driveway last night because i forgot it didn't have reverse. we went to push it out of the driveway while the shifter was in neutral and it would not move like it was in park. so when we let off of it. the car started to inch forward. like it was in drive. not from just releasing the rearward pressure on the car. it went further than that. when we got home last night. i was trying to shift the shifter into several different spots to see if i could find reverse. so if maybe the shift linkage was bad or mis adjusted or whatever. and between park and reverse. i had drive instead of park or reverse. any kind of help is wanted. suggestions that i get another transmission aren't needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 You might want to check the Neutral Position Sensor on the housing of the tranny. I once had a problem that required using the gear release button when the NSS was bad. In the end of the day you might be required to rebuild your transmission. The exact fault might be elusive (to me) as I don't know the innards of a tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 where is it located at exactly. i had consider that as a possiblity. i am hoping the trans doesnt need to come apart. i am hoping maybe if it is internal i can do it from the pan area. but i have no idea what the inside looks like either. mayeb a holder came off a band. i dont know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 No reverse sounds like a band. You'll likely need to open the trans and fix it. the NSS is on the side of the trans, externally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Cross your fingers you are blessed. The lockups sound like everytime the car wanted to shift, there was not enough fluid to sequence everything. When two gears are engaged at the same time clunk and lockup occures and the car will not move. Check linkages. but..... If nothing wrong linkage wise and no reverse tranny is busticated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 linkage is fine. i watch it as it was shifted from the inside. it moves eveytime. the back up lights come on when they are suppose to. last year i talked to a working suba mech at a dealer near me. i was at his house. he said for torque bind that i can buy the clutch packs on ebay cheap. he said to drop soemthing from the transmission and slap the clutch packs in it. and the torque bind would go away. i thought he was talking about another model. but after looking at the diagrams. it seems i might be able to remove the tail unit from the trans and remove the reverse drum. and replace the clutch packs. if that is what is wrong. and or the brake band around it. does this sound correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) the rear hub/drum (forget the exact part name) can shear off, which would result in your torque bind disappearing as no power can be sent to the rear driveshaft, nothing would turn. it also just slides out of the trans and can be replaced when doing the clutches or solenoid. *but i'm kind of confused - you said the torque bind went away but you're still talking about fixing it? so it's there or not? it seems i might be able to remove the tail unit from the trans and remove the reverse drum. and replace the clutch packs. if that is what is wrong. yes torque bind can be fixed without removing the trans from the vehicle by removing the rear extension housing to access the clutches and solenoid....or that hub if it's needed. it just slides out, with some persuasion. your car is AWD by the way - you mention FWD in the first post. FWD vehicles can't have torque bind....or not anything like we're talking about anyway. Edited June 4, 2011 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 To start with, you have 3 threads on transmission issues going at once, condense that to one. No reverse, slipping in other gears, and you know you ran it low on fluid until it stopped.... that trans is junk. Sorry. You're lucky it moves at all. Oh, and the feeling like it's in drive when it's in neutral? That's the result of the squeeling noise you heard. The clutch packs have stacks of friction disks and steel plates. You got those steel plates so hot they warped, so now it's like a stack of wave washers and friction disks, and it can't really disengage any more. The reason it got so hot is because the hydraulic pump was sucking air from the empty sump. The oil foam it was pumping around can't apply enough pressure to keep the clutchpacks locked, so they slip. Slipping makes heat, heat destroys parts. Don't put any money into that trans, it's trash. Go find one with the right final drive ratio out of a junkyard and throw it in, it will fix all your issues at once. And put fluid in it this time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 the rear hub/drum (forget the exact part name) can shear off, which would result in your torque bind disappearing as no power can be sent to the rear driveshaft, nothing would turn. it also just slides out of the trans and can be replaced when doing the clutches or solenoid. *but i'm kind of confused - you said the torque bind went away but you're still talking about fixing it? so it's there or not? yes torque bind can be fixed without removing the trans from the vehicle by removing the rear extension housing to access the clutches and solenoid....or that hub if it's needed. it just slides out, with some persuasion. your car is AWD by the way - you mention FWD in the first post. FWD vehicles can't have torque bind....or not anything like we're talking about anyway. the torque bind is gone. replacing the clutchs in the trans packs will fix the problem i am thinking. i dont want torque bind back no. e To start with, you have 3 threads on transmission issues going at once, condense that to one. No reverse, slipping in other gears, and you know you ran it low on fluid until it stopped.... that trans is junk. Sorry. You're lucky it moves at all. Oh, and the feeling like it's in drive when it's in neutral? That's the result of the squeeling noise you heard. The clutch packs have stacks of friction disks and steel plates. You got those steel plates so hot they warped, so now it's like a stack of wave washers and friction disks, and it can't really disengage any more. The reason it got so hot is because the hydraulic pump was sucking air from the empty sump. The oil foam it was pumping around can't apply enough pressure to keep the clutchpacks locked, so they slip. Slipping makes heat, heat destroys parts. Don't put any money into that trans, it's trash. Go find one with the right final drive ratio out of a junkyard and throw it in, it will fix all your issues at once. And put fluid in it this time! i had all the question in one thread and was not getting answer one. i finally started getting answers once i spead out the questions. this question was posted days ago. with only comments and no answers. as far as friction and steel i know what is in the drums. i have had many transmission apart and back together before. i even have the drum spring tool. a partial rebuild of the clutch packs will probably be fine fo rthis transmission the way it is. if not then thats my probelm. i know i wont spend 500 plus dollars on a different used transmission that may not work after i R&R it. with replacing the clutch packs and seals i will know what i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 I will say this then take my ;eave as these posts are confusing. There is no such thing as doing half a rebuild on a auto tranny. You have hard parts damage. Torque bind can either lock up the driveline or "go away" because the clutches are glazed. rebuilding an auto is different from a manual, however as I always say, it is your money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 so far no one has said anything about the hard parts being damaged. i thought we were talking about friction and steel clutches being damaged. did anyone say anything about half a rebuild? yes i asked if the guy was telling me about how to replace the clutch packs to get rid of torque bid. and i did say i could do that. but whatever i do to my car will be professional. i do not fill the transmission with sand and then pour type f in there. and top it off with distilled water. if it is hard parts what hard part are we talking about. the rear drum? the drum band? (brake band) if anyone would actually answer questions instead of just saying oh its finished. i wouldnt have to come in an pry the answers out of everyones lips. wtf? isnt there a sticky about if you dont know dont answer? what hard parts? the drum? what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 hey i have a flat tire. should i change the water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 If nothing wrong linkage wise and no reverse tranny is busticated. Busticated is a good word for it. Not laughing at your misfortune, I've had my share of dead transmissions. Torque bind and reverse are not connected in anyway whatsoever. These are two entirely different sections of the transmission. Torque bind is caused by the center transfer unit. Reverse locks down one of the clutches/bands on the planetary gears so the main drum will spin the opposite direction. You might have a valve body issue. This is not allowing full line pressure to the solenoid that controls the reverse band, or to the duty C solenoid which controls the pressure on the transfer clutches. Or the lack of torque bind might be because the clutches in the transfer unit have been knocked loose from the transfer drum, and the reverse problem is just a coincidence. Too hard to say without taking it apart and looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) get an FSM and use that as your guide. no one on here rebuilds auto trans - the last person that tried ended up with hundreds of dollars of scrap. it's not worth it to rebuild an auto trans, so if you think it is then you're pretty much on your own. but the Subaru Factory Service Manuals cover it in depth so those have everything you need to go through this if that's what yo'ure after. Find an FSM or ask folks on here for one. in the time it takes to rebuild an auto trans i could go buy a car needing some work, flip it, and make $2,500. then i'd use that money to buy a trans for $250 to fix your car....so i could fix your car and make $2,000+ in the same time it takes you to rebuild an auto trans. cool project, good learning experience, a fun trying to keep something going but doesn't make time or money sense for most folks with the skills to do this. it's roughly equivalent to meeting the garbage truck to empty bags into the truck yourself so you can reuse them. it's possible and would save money....but not worth it to most people. but the learning and do it yourself keeping it on the road aspect is totally awesome, so go for it. you're just not going to find much information on it. Edited June 4, 2011 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzam Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 hey i have a flat tire. should i change the water pump? Only if you tie your shoelaces together while doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 i do know how access to a link to the fsm's so that will help. it seems that most fo the tech stuff is about the valve body and the solenoids. drums and clutches are usually about the same in most transmissions. you have to have a spring compressor to get the drum all the way apart to replace the seal in the bottom piston of the drum. then it is a matter of stacking every other friction and steel plate in the drums. the only times i have had trouble rebuilding a transmission is when i didnt get the balls back in the valve body correctly. my original plan was to pull the pan so i could see if there were any parts laying in the pan and or silver. but i noe doubt any parts will be laying in the pan by the looks of the fsm's. so a fluid and filter change and look for silver is about all that would acomplish. i do now think the reverse drum plates are fried. and or stuck together. since you can put the trans in 2 and move the car then shift to 1 and the car grabs and stops itself. while going slowly. this means a total rebuild. or getting another one. i was able after i looked with searchtempest to find a used trans cheap. and kind of close. but the guy doesnt know the history of the trans. he bought it used with an engine and never ran the trans. my closest junkyard does have a transmission also. but they do not list it on the web. like they do other parts for this car. so it may be good but it may be bad. its probably good. but they want lots of money fo rthe parts they sell. more than i would pay. i will keep this updated. and or post a rebuild thread for others who know they can rebuild a trans. just as a guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) not many transmissions in your area at all. none listed in missouri AWD or FWD. put a post in the parts wanted forum of this board. i mentioned in your other thread that you can install a 2WD trans in just fine in place of your 4WD. only AWD's on car-parts.com "close" to you (none in Missouri): $400 in KY 1-859-635-3600, Des Moines, Iowa 1-800-717-6505 high tag of $550 with 220,000 miles TN no prices but both AWD: 865-397-4821 & 800-362-9889 A few FWD options: rosebud, missouri FWD trans, no price: 800-392-5302 Waterloo Iowa - $200 FWD unit tested 1-800-286-3041 TN: FWD for $200 800-423-1726 Illinois - FWD $550 (ouch!) 708-385-4000 & no price 1-800-566-1859 Edited June 5, 2011 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 i found a whole car not too far away. it is 2wd though. 600.00 the crankshaft came off the crank. no title. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 5, 2011 Share Posted June 5, 2011 do you mean the crank pulley came off of the crank shaft? maybe buy it, put the trans in your car and drive it until you find a ''newer'' replacement. then sell yours. the ''new''engine in the FWD car is a pretty easy fix and could be sold for a few $$. plus you'd have a parts car, assuming you have a place to store it. scrap cars are going for $9 - $11 around here. so that would be ~$200 for scrap value after you pulled the engine and trans. so, buy the FWD car for 500. sell the engine for $200. scrap the rest for $200. use the trans. it cost you $100 to put your car back on the road. of course it would be better to buy an AWD car and do this, but it just depends on how big a hurry you are in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General chaos Posted June 5, 2011 Author Share Posted June 5, 2011 all he said was the crank pulley came off. i dont have a place to store the car to part it out. i have 9 other cars trucks and vans. i have to get rid of two frames and two vans soon. i am loosing my storage place. my garage is packed full of stuff i cant seem to sell because of what ever reason. i just got awy from craigslist. i have been on there most of the afternoon. i found a trans in arkansas a couple of cars in sw misouri and 1 in oklahoma. and about a million new car dealer ads. scrap is 175.00 a ton here. i dont know what a legacy weighs with or without the engine or transmsision. and or fuel tank and tires. i could possibly ebay some of the small parts from it. but they are gettign older. who knows. these cars are hard to find. and the prices arent super cheap when you do find the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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