ihscout54 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 My "new" '84 hatch w/EA71 is getting the head gaskets replaced. Motors out heads are off, everything is looking good. My top concern is that Im pretty sure the motor has been overheated more than once. (fan was frighteningly rigged + pothead P.O.) Ive checked the heads and block and cannot find an obvious leak area, and they seem to check out with a metal ruler and feeler gauge. I was only getting compression in the coolant (no white smoke or milky oil). Should I go through the hassle of having them surfaced, or are these usually good to go? Do you guys have any advice for cleaning up the block surface with the studs intact? Any one here have experience with beck/arnley head gasket kits? I orderd one from rockauto, cheap close out, and now Im rethinking that decision. I already have OEM intake gaskets, as they are no good in aftermarket form, but perhapse the head gaskets will be good? Last, when I was looking up the head bolt loosening sequince I noticed the manual is mentioning use of "genuine Subaru head gasket sealer". Never used it befor, and couldnt find any info on it in searches. Is this info out of date? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 If it were me I would have the heads surfaced the minimum amount needed to clean them up and use Felpro perma-torque gaskets without any sealer (5 pounds over if your still worried) and clean the block area the best you can. Check the area around the top of the liners where they meet the aluminum. If you can catch your fingernail anywhere around any of the cylinders you may want to strip it and see if the block can be decked a few thousands to clean it up also. Otherwise just put it back together and run it. Do check the freeze plugs in the rocker area of the heads while they are off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 visually speaking i haven't been a huge fan of the EA82 beck arnley headgaskets so they still sit in my garage. i forget exactly why but i wasn't that excited to see two different gaskets for the same engine, ordered them at the same time. same part, looks different - like materially/construction wise speaking. probably not a big deal, just a little uneasy for a large job like that. that being said - EA engines don't blow headgaskets unless you make them, so i wouldn't be all that concerned either if i had to use them. never heard of using sealant on subaru headgaskets but i also don't do EA71's so maybe that older stuff differs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 (edited) Last, when I was looking up the head bolt loosening sequince I noticed the manual is mentioning use of "genuine Subaru head gasket sealer". Never used it befor, and couldnt find any info on it in searches. Is this info out of date? Perhaps...HYLOMAR, in one of it's forms would do the job. " i haven't been a huge fan of the EA82". What's that got to do, with the price of tea, in China? Edited June 2, 2011 by Quidam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 " i haven't been a huge fan of the EA82". What's that got to do, with the price of tea, in China?taking words out of context is often confusing, i didn't say anything about EA82 *engines*: Any one here have experience with beck/arnley head gasket kits? visually speaking i haven't been a huge fan of the EA82 beck arnley headgaskets he asked about BA (LOL, that's a great acronym) - headgaskets and i have some along with a few other brands of EA headgaskets lying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Thank you for the replies. I cant find any mention of the use of sealant in any posts, infact most state to install them dry. I plan to order some fel-pro H.G.s, and compare them to the B/A's. Fel-pro h.g.'s brag about being able to "seal minor imperfections". Probably only the spec'd .05mm but it makes me feel better reading it. Im not sure how I feel about having the heads machined w/valves intact, Ive never had that done befor, and am worried about metal shavings etc. I might take them over to a shop and have them inspected. One of the block mating surfaces has some rusty gaskety residue around the top studs, cleaning that should be fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 the shop will know what to do, that's what they do every day. i don't believe EA valves need to be removed for a resurface but if they do a competent shop will know how to do it properly. they'll hot tank it and give it back to you clean as a whistle, no shavings to worry about. you'll do a thorough clean down due to dust, dirt, etc just prior to bolting it up anyway. you could probably go to an auto parts store and take your BA HG's with you. ask for a set of fel pro PT headgaskets and compare them before buying. i'd post a picture of the various HG's I have but with dial up at home it's just no convenient enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hey, "Im not sure how I feel about having the heads machined w/valves intact, Ive never had that done befor, and am worried about metal shavings etc. I might take them over to a shop and have them inspected." Now this is controversal here. SOP is heads off, at least lap the valves. Machine shop? have then do a simple reface of the valves and seats. Your engine is an air pump. The seal at the valves, piston rings, guides, headgasket is where it happens. It's comes down to % as to how good the motor is, in this respect. I want and obtain at least good as new. YMMV Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 SOP is heads off, at least lap the valves. Machine shop? have then do a simple reface of the valves and seats. I agree 100% with 114k it will need it. along with a clutch kit, oil pump, gaskets... -rant coming- Check the area around the top of the liners where they meet the aluminum. If you can catch your fingernail anywhere around any of the cylinders Well I was following this advice when I noticed on the side w/lower compression there is some bad cylinder wear. I assumed the lower compression was being caused by the H.G. issue but the wear in the bottom of the no. 2 and 4 cyls is leading to belive otherwise. My compression test results (note that I am at high altitude). 1- 160 nice 3- 160 same 2- 149 some slight odd wear on bottom of cyl 4- 139 The grooved cyl I think Ive decided, compression is still in spec, this is not my BRAT, this is a $100 car that will be getting like 5000 miles per year. So Im just going to slap the stuff on Ive ordered and not put any more money in this motor project. Ive been debating redoing the motor but its just not worth it. My machine guy died a year and a half ago, when he died I lost my EA81 we were rebuilding (shop employees put the stuff outside during monsoon season). The work isnt the issue its the cost and trouble of having it bored (is it can be) and crank reground and sourcing a friggin cam as Im sure this one will be pitted... But its just not my style too bolt it together with fingers crossed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 I would recommend asking to see a surfaced head before having them do yours. Ive noticed over the years a big difference in the finished surface, ive had everything from a mirror finish to a heavily grooved surface and as far as I know it depends on the quality of their equipment and workmanship. If they cant provide an "as new" surface I look for another machine shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 I need to post a picture...then have Nick do his thing with the Dial Bore Gage. " but the wear in the bottom of the no. 2 and 4 cyls is leading to belive otherwise." I've ran a 240 grit stone in my block. It has "rock over" wear top of the cylinders, top and bottom of the block. I'll have to take a better look at the bottoms. I'll run 400 Grit, then see what Nick thinks about it. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Well Ive been working 50 hrs a week so Ive finally got a weekend to get back on this. Heads are milled and the block is as clean as Im going to get it. The B/A gaskets are very lame compared to the Felpros, similar to stock but the Felpros are what Ill be using. I also have questions.... This engine doesnt have head alignment pins like the EA81 I worked on did. Instead it has a collar over two of the studs which does a really poor job of aligning the head/gasket. Im getting some play out of one side and Im pretty concerned about alignment issues. They mention a tool in some of my searches but no real info about it. Any tricks here? Also I cant seem to find the socket I ground down for the head nuts, is there any reason I cant dissasemble an extra EA81 rocker assy and use the attatchment pieces as spacers to tourqe the head. Then remove them and install the the rocker arm assy and push rods and tourqe the two bolts? Would this interfere with the gaskets seal in any way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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