1-3-2-4 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 As you may or may not know my car has been overheating on slight hill grades and so on and over pressurizing the radiator dumping coolant into the overflow bottle. Anyways long story sometime this month I want to gather everything I need or possibly need for doing the headgaskets. I think at the dealer the gaskets are like around $86 or so?? Does anyone have a side view of the gaskets? I have no clue if the current gaskets on my car are original (234K) but the gasket at the top looks pretty ragged.. While I have the heads off I'm going to check valve clearance and do the valve cover gasket and the separator plate Since I have the intake manifold off do those gaskets as well.... Anything else I missed? My only concern is the driver side cams I need to remove them to replace the seals on them and first of all I want to make sure that when I remove the timing belt it's not going to snap one cam and hit one of the valves.. Do I need to get the cam locking tool? I'm trying to figure what can I hold the cam with while I use the impact on the cam? Oh and since I'm going all this the normal timing belt and water pump will be changed along with the other stuff that goes along with that.. I will check the back of the oil pump for the screws. One question.. Should I change the motor mounts?? and if so do the automatic and manual use the same mounts or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 as long as the center mark is lined up on the flywheel, the cams can be in any position. Be sure to center the flywheel(all pistons at center of bore) and then you can remove the belt, and turn the cams any way. Are you pulling the motor? ej25d? I would only change the motor mounts if they are oil soaked and spongey, but if never contaminated, they hold up pretty well. Make that decision based on cost. The mounts are the same regardless of trans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 as long as the center mark is lined up on the flywheel, the cams can be in any position. Be sure to center the flywheel(all pistons at center of bore) and then you can remove the belt, and turn the cams any way. Are you pulling the motor? ej25d? I would only change the motor mounts if they are oil soaked and spongey, but if never contaminated, they hold up pretty well. Make that decision based on cost. The mounts are the same regardless of trans Uhmm yeah EJ25D I was just wondering because I was looking at some endwrench stuff and they said if the valves hit each other (intake & exhaust) that's a bad thing.. I know when i did my TB on my Ej22 I remember trying to get the driver's side cam to stay at the mark for alignment .. I'm not sure if the endwrench was just being overly careful but i don't remember seeing any of that wording in the FSM for the outback. I'm pretty sure without a doubt my mounts are way oil soaked because of the rear Separator plate. Also disconnecting the wire harness most of them are on the passenger side on the tranny bell housing area? from what most I can see it's not really all that much to disconnect but it never hurts to label things. and yes pulling motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 keep all crank and cam (all 4 cam sprockets on this engine) lined up and nothing to worry about. if it snaps to the side, just rotate it back in position. the 4 cam Ej25's are a bit annoying but not hard at all to do without a tool either. it's just the top drivers side i think that is tricky to keep in position, it's always wanting to snap in place. i rarely take more than 2 shots at getting and on the belt goes just fine with no special tools. i've never seen bad motor mounts on EJ's, i'm sure it's possible but i wouldn't replace unless they look bad. some of us on here might ship you some lower mileage ones if you want. sounds like you got all the major stuff covered. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 I was just wondering about the mounts because on NASIOC they were like they wear out and new mounts help and all that. I feel better knowing about the cam now, Anyone know of a good degreaser? With that front crank seal leaking it's a battle.. When the engine is out I don't need to support the transmission do I? I know the engine tends to pitch forward if you remove the tranny but not sure the other way around. hopefully the dealer will have some in stock tomorrow (head gaskets( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 you don't "need" to but it's helpful to have a jack under the trans so you can raise and lower it. not necessary at all on removal but when installing you'll want to raise it just about an inch or two to line up the lower engine studs. without the engine in place the trans drops down on the cross mebmer, the engine is what holds it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 (edited) Ok sounds good... what do you suggest I use to get all the old gasket material off the motor? is a putty knife ok as long as you don't dig down too hard? How many times did they change the gasket design anyways? short and sweet video of the timing belt change.. not all that bad at all just remember which way to rotate the cam what can I jam in it so it wont rotate with the impact wrench? And more so when I put the bolt back in with the ratchet wrench? Edited June 2, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 (edited) has anyone ever heard of coating the new gaskets with permatex copper spray gasket? Ok so searching around the copper stuff is not needed but How about getting to those driver side cams? I never understood why the cam design on these motors are not the same for the passenger side and driver's side.. the passenger side is easy to hold with a wrench but what about the driver's side it's recessed a bit. Edited June 3, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) Anyone know the current part number for the DOHC gaskets? if not I will just head down to the dealer seems like 11044AA610? Edited June 17, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 cost me $109.25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 the people on NASIOC say this is the best place in CT http://larryspower.com/index.html I just wonder how much its going to cost me lol looking at the website.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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