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'83 Brat electrical nightmare, threatening existance


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Ok I had to make a new thread, I have to find this issue.

Here is a quote from me the other day:

an electrical short makes the headlight relay buzz, and both indicator lights for the turn signals on the gauges to stay on, and makes the headlights not work, etc (when the key is on ACC and the headlight switch is ON)

 

SHORT RELATES TO TRANS MOVEMENT/VEHICLE ROLLING DOWN THE ROAD!!!

Liken on/off/on/off/on/off momentarily, faster the faster you move.

 

all gauge needles are also doing crazy things, no gauge illumination, ignition coil wire is randomly losing power so I can't even drive down the road without spark randomly cutting out!

 

Ok so this short is CRAZY and my buddies and I can't figure it out.

 

I figure it has to be a wire crossed between a wire in the headlight circuit, and between a sensor on the transmission or something thats a momentary on/off sensor.

But what sensor is like that?

The only sensor on my trans thats hooked up is for the reverse lights.

 

This issue does not relate to the engine spinning. With the engine off but the key on ACC, the short goes away and comes back as you roll the vehicle on flat ground!

 

This problem is insane, and it threatens the very continued existence of my Brat, in its current iteration at least. I've spent over a month solid on crazy rust repair and restoration work. My buddy and I converted this '83 Brat from auto to manual with a 4-speed out of an '81 GL wagon.

 

HELP

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I'll check grounds, but it just occurred to me the problem area! I'm sure of it.

mechanical speedo cable goes into the back of stock gauge cluster and turns gears when the car moves!

My stock gauge cluster is electrically F'd, I was already suspecting issues with electronics in the area...

I feel much better now with a direction to go.

Edited by TajMan
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What happens to the things you describe having trouble when the ignition switch is in the RUN position and not the ACC mode? Are things working ok then? From what you describe it sounds to me like the trouble may be with the ignition switch area. Before tearing into things I suggest you check voltages getting to the fuses that feed the areas mentioned, first.

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No, shorts are not related to the ignition switch. They occur when in the run position or the ACC position.

 

When I try to drive down the road, the intermittent short effecting the ignition coil wire causes the engine to randomly lose spark, it won't pull solid and the engine dies sometimes.

 

My gauge cluster is bad.

If anything is possibly bad 2nd, it would probably be my headlight switch.

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hi, i recently found a bad ground on my 84 wagon that had caused several issues but not exactly like yours. anyway, it is one of the main ground wires with a eyelet end. this one is up under the dash not far from the floorboard, you have to loosen the fuse box and the ecm , find the main harness coming from the engine compartment out of the firewall / floorboard , this ground wire was a black heavy gage about 6-7 inches long with an eyelet, it sprouts right off from that main harness and is obveously meant to connect to ground with a screw. mine was completely free and unattached to anything, after putting it securely to a body ground my problems were fixed ! not sure if this is your problem but definately check this particular ground wire because its one of the main ones, and definately has to have a good ground for anything to work right, especially in the instrument and light circuits , that is where my car was having problems.

Edited by ruparts
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thank you for that advice

 

could you guys tell me what gauge cluster would be compatible with my 83 Brat? Do ANY clusters of that style, even from an EA82 car match the wiring plug?

Or does it have to be from an 81-84?

 

local pick-n-pull yard only has two '87 Subarus right now..

 

I know there were differences produced. My stock cluster was from an auto car (only 1 4WD light). My manual trans now is single-range, so that one only needs one 4WD light. I know later manuals had a 4-hi and 4-lo indicator light on the cluster...

Edited by TajMan
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I think the trouble you are having isn't due to a short. It is a bad connection to power or bad grounding possibly. If you think the trouble can't be with the ignition switch because the engine is dieing you are mistaken. Power to the ignition system is provided through the ignition switch.

 

If you haven't checked and cleaned the battery connections already then do that. Clean the battery to chassis ground connection also. If the trouble still persists after that then verify proper power is getting to the fuses in the dash fuse panel when the trouble happens. If there are some fuses that don't have good voltage getting to them check the fusible link connections and the ignition switch connections.

 

I don't see how a bad cluster could cause the kind of troubles you describe. It may be bad, but it won't cause things like the headlights to fail.

Edited by Cougar
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I have had a couple flaky alternators on my BRAT, and they do wierd things if the voltage regulator is going out on it.

 

Some things my BRAT would do when it was going out was turn on lights, and the wipers would go on even though the wiper switch was off. Radio stop working then start again. And at times, no starts.

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I still suspect my gauge cluster, going to the junk yard for one now..

But I also suspect a wire on my ignition switch, you guys reminded me! That could be definitely causing the ignition coil intermittent problem.

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news:

 

I swapped the gauge cluster with a good '84 146K cluster.

Problem still occurring, pretty much the exact same way. While rolling back, short is off - off - off - on - off - off - off - on

 

THEN, unplug the speedo cable from the cluster, and short stays on and is no longer effected by vehicle movement.

 

I think I'm going to return cluster to junk yard for $40 credit.

I think I have a short with an illumination wire in the headlight circuit, and so somehow the turning of speedo gears effects this illumination voltage (even though the problem is not occurring INSIDE my gauge cluster).

 

 

I got to my ignition switch, and the wire I had repaired in the past was still welded and soldered, I don't seem to have an issue there.

Ya, when I fixed it previous the electrical contact was so big and wouldn't solder so I welded the wire on and its good.

 

I can't seem to find that main ground wire ruparts was talking about, I didn't see any loose grounds hanging...

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Since removing the speedo cable made a difference in the reaction of things I suggest you try bonding suspected ground problem areas with a temporary ground jumper lead and see how things work then. Tie one end of the jumper to the negative battery post or another known good ground point and the other end to the dash area and other points you suspect may be bad. If things work better, then you know you need to fix the grounding to that area. Make sure the battery to chassis ground is clean.

Edited by Cougar
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The ground that ruparts suggested turned out to be the one to fix the problem!

I finally found it, there are a thousand wires and my car has a ton of un-used connectors on the wiring harness.

Thanks a lot guys.

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