blackout Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 My first official post. Normally I can find the information I need just by looking through older posts (so thanks for that). Until now.... I have a 93 Loyale. Stopped for coffee, came out and none of the electrical worked. No ignition, to lights (including hazards), absolutely nothing happened when I turned the key. I have electric door locks, and the other 3 doors wouldn't even pop when I unlocked the drivers side. Reading 12.4+ volts at the battery (even tried starting with a jump....nothing). All fuses in the panel are good. Continuity of the fusible links are good. And I'm getting 12.4+ volts to the hot side of the fusible link box. Any other suggestion as to where to go from here? Thanks in advance.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drugh Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 I am no expert, but... Try removing the plastic paneling on the underside of the steering column. This allows access to the wire terminals on the ignition switch. Check for voltage into the switch, and also test voltage out of the switch in the accessory, on , and start positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Are you 100% sure that fuse #5 is good? (horn/hazzard fuse). I had fuse 5 prevent me from getting power to the ECU once. The cause of it was a short I had created while doing some work on my stereo, I left the little green wire touching the metal frame where the ashtray goes in. I would pop in a new fuse and it would almost blow instantly. Just something to triple check....because it's easy to overlook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 First thing I would do is give the battery posts and terminals a good cleaning and tightening, Follow the cables and check their connections, where they end, at the block and starter, or where ever they end up in your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Are you 100% sure that fuse #5 is good? (horn/hazzard fuse). I had fuse 5 prevent me from getting power to the ECU once. The cause of it was a short I had created while doing some work on my stereo, I left the little green wire touching the metal frame where the ashtray goes in. I would pop in a new fuse and it would almost blow instantly. Just something to triple check....because it's easy to overlook. this has heppened to me. I bypassed witha toggle by backfeeding power nto the green wire, and drove it this way for almost 2 years before i discovered fuse 5 was out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackout Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Are you 100% sure that fuse #5 is good? (horn/hazzard fuse). I had fuse 5 prevent me from getting power to the ECU once. The cause of it was a short I had created while doing some work on my stereo, I left the little green wire touching the metal frame where the ashtray goes in. I would pop in a new fuse and it would almost blow instantly. Just something to triple check....because it's easy to overlook. I will check that again....but even if it IS blown, I should be getting power to thing such as the door locks, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackout Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 I am no expert, but... Try removing the plastic paneling on the underside of the steering column. This allows access to the wire terminals on the ignition switch. Check for voltage into the switch, and also test voltage out of the switch in the accessory, on , and start positions. I started doing this because I initially assumed it was ignition, but then realized that if it was ignition I should be losing hazards and door locks. Guess I will run that test anyway since it's already torn apart.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackout Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 First thing I would do is give the battery posts and terminals a good cleaning and tightening, Follow the cables and check their connections, where they end, at the block and starter, or where ever they end up in your car. The terminals are new (within 6 months), and the posts were cleaned then. I ran a voltage check between the end connectors of ground and hot and it gave me the same reading as at the posts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackout Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 one last thing (don't know if it's relevant or not).....this has happened on two other occasions, but after sitting for awhile worked just fine. No dice this time....been sitting for two weeks, still nothing. :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 where you at?i may have time tomorrow afternoon.cheers, b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackout Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 where you at?i may have time tomorrow afternoon.cheers, b West Central off of Northwest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Have you checked the fuseable links (think they are called that)? If one of those goes, then no power to the car... There should be mutli-colored ones in the fuse box under the hood. The different colors mean different amperage. Check these out. One is probable blown. Also, what about the connection to the fuse box next to the battery (I think its there, it's been a while since I have looked, but it's the fuse box under the hood)? Have you checked that for corrosion? That wire feeds the fusable link box, so if it's corroded, then no power to the links, no power to the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Things like the doorlocks, brake lights, and hazard lights tie to unswitched power from the distribution panel under the hood. They are hot all the time. If those areas have a problem then you need to make sure the fusible link connections are ok and the battery post connections are good. I would clean them with a wire brush. It would also be a good thing to clean the battery to chassis ground connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackout Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share Posted June 9, 2011 Like I said in the original post, the fusible links tested good (I was getting 12+ volts on the running end). Checked voltage at ignition and was only getting .6 volts. All the fuses were good. Took a look at the ground and hot battery cable connections, ground looked good, hot cable on the starter end not-so-much. Cleaned the starter post and decided to just replace both battery cables..............started up just fine! I don't quite understand this since, as Cougar mentioned, the stuff that wasn't working (hazards, brake lights, door locks, etc.) run off unswitched power. That's why I was concentrating on the wiring between the battery, link box and fuse panel. Does this (Loyale) system require power to the starter to close the loop to unswitched sources? That's the only thing that makes sense as to why a bad starter connection would prevent power to unswitched sources.......but still doesn't make sense. Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Some folks have found bad connections under the fusible link holder. Also check the connections under the fuse panel in the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Could also be that the cables you pulled out were corroded in the core and the insulation looked fine. I have seen that happen. The cable looks fine until you cut into it and find all sorts of green nasty stuff inside Or by just replacing them you inadvertently tighten something down, bumped something back into place or something like that. Either way, glad it's running and it didn't cost too much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 I have a feeling just messing with the connectors was enough to solve the issue. Sometimes all it takes is a twist back and forth the improve the connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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