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engine idles low then stalls out


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All right, both of you, just stop it. :mad: sheesh... :rolleyes:

 

Dannoo - if you think you might have gotten water in the engine - go out and drain the oil - NOW! do not leave it sitting in there and possibly causing rust in places you dont want rust to form.

The engine will be better off sitting with no oil at all, than sitting with oil and water in it.

Not to mention, we can sit and hypothisize about whether or not it has water in it till the cows come home - without draining you just dont know. Drain it, find out for sure.

I would also change plugs, wires, cap & rotor - wires one at a time to make sure they are in the correct places.

It is also possible that it may have jumped a tooth or two on the timing - very possible if they got wet - which could explain the no start situation - it wont fire if the timing is off - so that would be the next thing to check. there is a very good write up on EA82 timing procedures here in the USMB repair section.

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Agreed. If you want peoples advice (thats why youre posting here) you need to keep it friendly, and accept their advice.

 

+1 with Heartless.

 

DRAIN YOUR OIL NOW! DO NOT WAIT.

 

Rust could lead to your engine seizing up and then you have to spend money to put another EA82 in there since you dont have the expertise to do the EJ swap yet.

 

Were just being friendly here, trying to offer you advice, and you have questions for us, be prepared for us to have questions back to clarify what is going on.

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Read your post in Poor Man Run.

 

I will suggest you drain your oil now, not tomorrow, just drain it til its empty and seal it back up, then tomorrow when you do the oil change, do the ATF and oil change.

 

You need to verify your timing because you arent starting. What is going on when you TRY to start it? Do your dash lights come on? Is it clicking when you crank it? Is it trying to start or is it just blank?

 

You cant run ATF if the car isnt running, so I would tinker around with the timing, see if theres another user in the Spokane area that would be willing to come work on this with you for a few days, maybe give them some money for gas and beer for their time, buy them lunch, do something, but if you want this car up and running by Sunday, you will need some help.

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it is cranking but not igniting so it just keeps turning over and over

 

(grrr - database errors :mad: - grumble grump)

 

going to state again - timing has more than likely jumped. even one tooth off can prevent it from starting.

 

dont remember and with the errors tonight, not gonna go look - how many miles are on this car again?

 

and seriously - get that oil drained if you havent done that yet!!!

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Agreed, start with the draining the oil.

 

Do your spark plugs and wire and check your distributor cap and timing.

 

Id be willing to bet on Heartless' assumption about the timing, I bet if you did all these, the Loyale would purr!

 

Hope to see it goes well.

 

Best of luck

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i cleaned the iac and put it back in and made sure my firing order is right...i drained out about half the oil and put in 2 qrtz of atf in and its running but it is idling very rough did i mess up the iac or how do i reset the computer to reset the idle

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ya i did 2 qrtz of atf...let it run for about 15 min...drained it all...took off old oil filter put on new one...refilled with 5 qrts of oil and it is still idling rough....wont let me accelerate at all...should i go pull a IAC off of another loyale or what

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so its kinda dark and im still working on it....its idling really rough i cleaned the IAC but i could have messed it up so i might go pull one off of an old car....how do i check to see if my timing belt skipped a tooth or whatever it is.....thanks for the help guys its almost running

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went to pns and spent the whole day poking around subies with my buddy....i pulled off 3 IAC valves and put the cleanest one on and it still runs the same but i found some projects i want to do ...found some legacys that i might pull struts off of and put on my subby to give a lil lift....also some gls that have some d/r trannies

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IAC probably won't cause it to idle rough, low maybe. But you can unplug the damn thing and the engine still runs just fine. Needs a little throttle input until it's warmed up, but it doesn't idle rough.

Especially not running.

 

Not having enough power to move sounds like either timing is REEEEEEALLLY off, or two plug wires are swpped.

I did that once, the car would barely move. I spent half an hour playing with the distributor and messing with everything until I saw what I'd done...

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Well, glad to hear that the oil got changed and it at least runs at this point, even if it is badly.

 

have you pulled spark plugs at all?? what do they look like?

clean, light whitish or grey, or light tan = pretty normal

darker colors or gunky looking = bad

what does the disty cap look like inside?? are the contact points all burned & crappy looking? if so, it needs to be replaced.

 

163K - when was the timing done last?? or do you know? if you dont know then i highly recommend doing it - these are supposed to be done every 60,000 miles - altho it is very possible for it to go a LOT longer before showing problems - mine did... :rolleyes: (before i learned better) belts can stretch and cause issues before they actually fail. the good news is the EA82 is non-interference so no internal problems if they do fail.

 

for a check on the timing belts - the video is good, but there is a regular write up with photos here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

Same guy did both the write up and video - and believe me when i say - he is GOOD!

 

Only problem with both of these is that he is working on things with the motor of the car - it is not necessary to pull the motor to do the timing - it is a little easier to see things with it out, but not a necessity.

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the car has brand new plugs in it....and the distributer cap was a lil nasty but i wiped it out and scrapped the contact strikers clean...as for the timing belt i havent checked it but i did fell it and it is super tight no loose ness in it at all

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Well assuming that the problem is it is out of time there are two things you can try. One is try to advance the distributor and see if that makes it run better and if that dont work (assuming the issue is timing) then you will likley just need to replace the timing belt.

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Just having clean things in the cap (whatever they're called) doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. There's the rotor, the graphite thing with the spring that goes between the cap and the rotor, and the cap can be cracked!! I don't know how it happens, but mine was cracked when I got the car and that caused it to run crappy, esp when damp.

 

On the topic of rotor. Make sure the screw hasn't fallen out of the rotor, that will make it run crappy or not at all.

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