briankk Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 My "new" '90 Loyale has a few issues I'm trying deal with before they get bigger.. The brakes need attention, so I've pulled some wheels to have a look. The LF front hub seems stuck. The car is supposed to have 36mm (socket) 24x1.5 metric axle nuts, but my left front nut is a 1 1/4 (socket) size, and stuck on pretty firmly, a 1/2 drive Snap-On breaker bar and 2' of pipe won't budge it, even with my 245 lbs full weight and overnight soaking in Kroil... I suspect that a "similar" American threaded nut has been put on there and torqued to spec, 108 ft/lb. In a while, I'll break out the torch and try heating it, but my question is this. If it comes down to it, can a rattle wrench be used on this thing without harming the tranny or the CV joints? TIA bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 if the wheel is on the ground, and forces are going to be spread across the hub and the jugnuts beofre turning the axle, unless the wheel owas off the ground.. you can try cutting off the nut if it is way screwed up. the axle shaft should be a harder steel than the nut, so the threads should survive, where they may be compromised on the nut. You should be able to get new nut at the dealer, or one would come with a new axle. Make sure the flat washer goes on correctly, or the cone washer and nut will not hold torque. The flat washer is convex, with the convex side against the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankk Posted June 12, 2011 Author Share Posted June 12, 2011 I already have the proper nut, the local AP store has a Dorman display, the Dorman part number is 615-106. They charged me $8.00 for the nut... bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 12, 2011 Share Posted June 12, 2011 You won't harm anything by using an impact. If a nut with the wrong thread was used - the axle threads will be toast. You should probably just replace the axle - they aren't expensive. At the very least you will need to run a die over it or thread file it till the new nut goes down smoothely. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankk Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 The plot thickens... rattled off the nut, but the shaft is too small to fit the proper nut. I seem to have 3 Soob axles and one something else... Wonder now if my wheel bearings are some funny size on that axle... All four corners now inspected. Funny axle as mentioned. Front brakes totally shot, I have the new disks, waiting for the pads. Rear brakes OK, but want adjusting. LR wheel bearing shot. Will now see what's involved in that little project. The Chilton manual talks about special pullers needed to do any wheel bearings. Do I need the funny pullers, or will regular pullers adapt? If funny pullers required, should I buy them or take the axle/upright to a shop and just bleed money on them? bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Rear Wheel Bearings: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226 Theres a lot of good write ups in the USMB Repair manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Pretty common practice for remanufactured axles. They get a core back with screwed up threads, so they cut it down to a smaller size. I've seen a few of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankk Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Rear Wheel Bearings: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226 Theres a lot of good write ups in the USMB Repair manual. Well that just about exactly answers my question... Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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