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analog to digital dash


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The digi-dash, while cool and totally 80's, is pretty unreliable. It also takes different senders, like the fuel tank sender, an oil pressure switch, and some other things like an outside temp sender. The wiring does not plug and play, so you have to get the set of connectors with the digi-dash and splice into yours.

 

I'm going the opposite direction, but I'm using the harness out of my loyale to switch my GL-10 back to analog.

 

The only good thing about the digi-dash is it has an audible alarm when you go past redline. It makes beating the bag out of the EA82T that much more fun. Beep Beep Beep Beep.... and he hammers 2nd.

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unreliable is the key word. there's different digital dashes too, some harder to read than others.

 

the fuel sender is the trickiest one to come by, being in the fuel tank, very helpful for a daily driver, and trickiest to work around/install aftermarket in it's place.

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The digi-dash, while cool and totally 80's, is pretty unreliable. It also takes different senders, like the fuel tank sender, an oil pressure switch, and some other things like an outside temp sender. The wiring does not plug and play, so you have to get the set of connectors with the digi-dash and splice into yours.

 

I'm going the opposite direction, but I'm using the harness out of my loyale to switch my GL-10 back to analog.

 

The only good thing about the digi-dash is it has an audible alarm when you go past redline. It makes beating the bag out of the EA82T that much more fun. Beep Beep Beep Beep.... and he hammers 2nd.

 

does shifting at 6500 rpm give you a better kick out of first then shifting at 6K?

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It is easy to swap to digi, but do you want it to work would be he question....:lol:

 

I would suppose you could leave it unhooked, real easy.

 

As others have said, even the connectors behind the cluster are totally different. You would have to splice every single wire, to the connector that came from the digi donor car. Then the sensors. Then it may only be half functional, as they tend to be junk and not work most of the time when you are talking electronics this old. It would be easier to make a ipad work in your cluster...

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It would be easier to make a ipad work in your cluster...

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

I just can not fathom why someone would want to put IN the digidash - most are taking them out....

 

Please, explain the thinking on this one??? :confused:

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does shifting at 6500 rpm give you a better kick out of first then shifting at 6K?

 

I usually shift closer to 7-8k. It won't rev above 8,200 because the valves float. I really don't give a damn about this engine, and the ECU craps out into a default mode after about 30 minutes of running and then heals itself if you leave it with the battery unhooked for a couple weeks. So for that 30 minutes or less, I'm free.

 

I keep hoping it will chuck a rod so I can add that to my wall of carnage in the shed, but the damn thing won't die. It won't stay running either, so it's annoying.

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