GrymReaper Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 So my timing belt stripped out last week, I was at idle when it happened. The first time I tried to start it acted like it's start, then I heard a BOOM and nothing. Towed it back to my place, started tearing into it over the last week. Changed the timing belt, checked the compression on all 4 cylinders (150-180 on all of them), so i decided to try and start it up. The car started immediately, but there's now a tapping sound and a fair amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipe (not white, smells like fuel to me). I haven't had it running for more than 15 seconds or so, I'm petrified there's a bent valve and I'm gonna gouge the hell out of my head/piston if I leave it running. If I have a bent valve, how would I have compression in all cylinders? I'd love to do a leak-down but am sans compressor. What is the leaking and smoke caused by? Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is my sole car and I need it up and at 'em pronto if at all possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 I'm in Portland and if you want me to take a look send me a PM, or an email - cropperr (at) gmail (dot) com. It is possible that you had a piston strike a valve and bend it ever so slightly - this will cause it to not seat completely - and the tapping would then be the rocker arm out of adjustment. You should immediately verfiy the valve adjustment with some feeler gauges. If ANY of the valves have an excessively large lash adjustment then they have been kissed by the piston and are no longer closing straight. That said - IF it's timed properly - you will not get any further piston/valve interferance and it is perfectly safe to run it unless a valve should stick in it's guide or something. With a perfect EJ22 you should see 180 to 190 psi of compression. 150 is low and could indicate a slightly bent valve on an otherwise perfect engine. There's a good chance that you can run it in the short term simply by adjusting whatever rockers are loose..... it's not ideal but if you lack the funds to properly repair it at this time it will get you down the road. Let me know if you need me to look at it and make the call for you . GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 If you figure out which cylinder, you could tighten down the rocker and try the rope trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrymReaper Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 GD, you are emailed. I have no idea what the rope trick is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crws Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 http://www.google.com/search?q=piston+valve+rope+trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 By filling the combustion chamber with the leaky ( slightly bent, not burnt) valve with rope and tightening the clearance on those rockers to zero, you may be able to straighten the valve enough to get it to seal and bring your compression back up. This won't work for an exhaust valve as well, because unless it seals very well, it will eventually "burn" the valve and the head will have to come off anyway. You can determine if it is exhaust or intake with a leak down check and listening to the tailpipe and intake airbox ( minus the filter) while pressurizing the cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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