teasdam Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 I'm about to attempt a passenger side halfshaft replacement on a 1990 loyale 4wd. I've never done this before so I thought I'd ask if there are any tricks and/or pitfalls I should be aware of before I tear into this. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 The best tip or trick on the board is to search for Edrach's tutorial on changing halfshafts.. its been used by tons of first timers, myself included..(although I had the advantage of having Ed standing over my shoulder...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted March 9, 2004 Author Share Posted March 9, 2004 hmm, I did a few searches but only found one link to edrach's tutorial, and that link is apparently no good anymore. Do you happen to know if it's archived somewhere? I did find milesfox's info so that will help anyway. thanks calebz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Tips: The Castle nut is 36mm, and a nice 36mm Impact socket will go a long way if you have Subaru's. Its best to break the nut loose while the car is still on the ground. You'll need to remove the brake pads, caliper and rotor to get the CV off, so make sure you have plenty of space to place parts. The Caliper doesnt need to be removed from the braket or brakelines, and you can use something like chickenwire to hold it up and out of the way. Also, its easier to remove the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle, rather than removing the joint end from the lower control arm. After the lower ball joint is disconnected, you can pull the strut outward, and use that to pull the CV from the tranny. The pin in the tranny is 3/16" and might be easier to remove from up top of the vehicle, through the hood. I usually use a socket on the end of a few extensions, then slide the punch into the socket. Makes for a nice 30" long punch After the pin is out, try to remove the CV from the transmission, then after the rotor and brakes are out of the way, tap the CV through the steering hub to remove it. Installation is pretty much the same, but in reverse. -Brian p.s. When your done and tightening the 36mm bolt, dont be affraid to use a breaker bar and some leg-power to get it torqued down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 use a roll pin punch, 3/16, IT IS A SPECIALTY TYPE OF PUNCH pickle fork to pry ball joint, and both ends of shaft air hammer to knock housing off strut tap and die set to clean threads 12, 18, 19, 17, 36 mm sockets/wrenckes 3/4 impact wrench torque wrench, beaam deflection type, 150 ft.lbs for 36mm nut, 75 ft lbs for lug nuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Its not neccessary to remove the strut mount, or the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle. Also, its easier to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, that way you dont risk damaging the boot on your balljoint, and you dont need a picklefork. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 it was a joint effort from miles fox, chilton, haynes, and fsm, 3+ hours to do it my way, had time to kill, included separiting stub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Originally posted by TheSubaruJunkie Tips: You'll need to remove the brake pads, caliper and rotor to get the CV off, so make sure you have plenty of space to place parts. The Caliper doesnt need to be removed from the braket or brakelines, and you can use something like chickenwire to hold it up and out of the way. Brian here's a tip to save some time. Instead of removing all of the brake parts, just take the 4 bolts out that hold the hub to the rotor then tap the hub off with a hammer. Don't forget to put a little bit of grease on the part of the hub the spins inside the wheel bearing seal, when you put things together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggbrat Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 I just replaced the passenger side half shaft on my 87 Subaru RX today. It was actually quite easy. The hardest part was getting the axle nut loose. I used a crowbar in between two wheel lugs and the other end on the ground to keep the hub from moving while I removed the axle nut. And you dont need to run out and buy a 36mm socket.......I used a pipe wrench and my body weight to loosen the nut. I used the instructions in a Haynes manual for this removal........the book was right on. Also you can use a small phillips screwdriver to push the pin out of the axle shaft near the differential........just make sure its slightly smaller than the hole its going into. I think its easier to do this from under the car. Just turn the axle shaft so that you can bang it out from underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 just remove the one bolt that holds on the caliper, and the pads, don't remove the hub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greggbrat Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Maybe we are talking about something different........the hub is attached to the CV Axle.......if you dont remove the hub then the axle cant be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 the hub fits over the spluned shaft of the axle, the rotor bolts to the hub. it is not necessary to remove the brake caliper pads or rotors to take the axles OUT. but, however, i DO take them off to install the axle, you have to remove the 2 17mm bolts in back for the caliper bracket, and then the hub/rotor comes off i like to yap around the knuckle to start the axle. it is POSSIBLE to install the axle with the brake assy. on, but with the PARKING BRAKE engaged to hold it all still BUT, be careful of how you line he axle thru, as if it is not straight, you may booger a spline in the hub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvdrt Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 i have a stack of big washers that i use to help pull the axle through the hub. i put enough on there to get the nut threaded and tourque it , take it off and add mre until its all the way in. just thought i'd add that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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