92_rugby_subie Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 (edited) Okay, I was going to do these all separate, but decided to try to put it all together as one thread. First - What is everyones luck with getting this black silicone off the paint, without damaging it? I am getting new tail-lights this week and want to put them in with a fresh seal. I would like the body side of the lights to be down to paint as the new lights will get a scrubbing as well. Been told to use Butyl Rubber to seal the lights, any other suggestions or is this the best idea? (got it from GD, its gotta be a good one, but am I missing anything) Second - How can you get paint off glass without damaging the class/scratching the glass? I have some black overspray on my rear window (how it got there, Im clueless to) I have a friend who said to use steel wool and dish soap, but having used steel wool to clean the chrome wheels, Im a little nervous to use that on glass. Edited July 2, 2011 by 92_rugby_subie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Cured silicone is terible hard to move. Try a sharp piece of hard wood, sorta like a wood chisel if you know what I mean. I wouldn't think you need to get it all off. If you got the majority off the butyl rubber tape will seal to the silicone. Just try and level the silicone. As to the paint some MEK will wipe it right off. Methylethylketone. It's not something you want on your skin so you need nitrile gloves. DO NOT get it on any paint you don't want to remove cause it will ruin it!! Home Depot carries the chemical and the chemical resistant gloves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 scrape off as much of that goop as you can with a plastic putty knife or similar tool that wont scratch the paint and then use a product like "Goof-Off" to get rid of the remaining residue. overspray on glass - use a razorblade to scrape it off - and i mean the single edge type razor blades, NOT a utility knife blade. the razor blades are thinner and will flex more than a utility knife blade will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRP tourer Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Steel wool will do a good job of cleaning glass as long as the paint is not too heavy and won't hurt the glass, lots of body shops use it. Be sure to rinse well afterwards, the small filings left by the steel wool will get into cracks and rust, won't hurt anything but looks like crap. If there is a heavier coat of paint, scrape it first with a razor blade as previously mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 2, 2011 Author Share Posted July 2, 2011 Thanks! I knew I could find the right answers! I will try the steel wool first as I dont have razor blades handy and hopefully that does the trick. I will use the goof off method first so theres no risk of losing paint with droplets or anything. If that doesnt get it off, then I will use the chemical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I use the razor blade to get overspray off... hasn't scratched once! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Sweet, Yea my brother had a 240sx and he had razor blades in it that I found, so I can use the razor blade idea as well, we will see what works the best for this stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I think you misunderstood me. The MEK I recomended for removing the paint off the glass or chrome areas ONLY!!! It will take the paint right off around the tail light opening and probably not touch the silicone. Do not get that stuff on the paint!!! You may be better off just forgetting I mentioned it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 have used the razor blade method many many times on glass - I always scrape the the glass before attempting to do window film (tint) to make sure there is no stuck on dirt, fly speck, or anything else that could affect the way the film lays down - scrape thoroughly, then clean thoroughly with a good glass cleaner, then clean again with vinegar/water solution. Goof-off is great for getting rid of sticky residues - from old stickers, decals, etc - should also work well on the old tail-light sealant - but seriously, get as much off before hand as you can cause it will spread it around some before fully removing - the less there is to spread around, the faster it will come clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 I think you misunderstood me. The MEK I recomended for removing the paint off the glass or chrome areas ONLY!!! It will take the paint right off around the tail light opening and probably not touch the silicone. Do not get that stuff on the paint!!! You may be better off just forgetting I mentioned it. Ohh, yea I totally thought it was for the silicone lol. Do you think that stuff will take the rusty looking stuff off chrome wheels? I have a set Im trying to sell, and it would be amazing if they were in perfect condition for whoever bought them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 have used the razor blade method many many times on glass - I always scrape the the glass before attempting to do window film (tint) to make sure there is no stuck on dirt, fly speck, or anything else that could affect the way the film lays down - scrape thoroughly, then clean thoroughly with a good glass cleaner, then clean again with vinegar/water solution. Goof-off is great for getting rid of sticky residues - from old stickers, decals, etc - should also work well on the old tail-light sealant - but seriously, get as much off before hand as you can cause it will spread it around some before fully removing - the less there is to spread around, the faster it will come clean. I will attempt this soon, I have a few bottles of Goof Off hanging around, I just havent gone out to the garage yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Try Naval Jelly on the rusty chrome wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Steel wool worked great on the paint over spray, the back window is incredibly clear. I used a dish soap afterwards to clean it all up, then powerwashed for a rinse... dumb idea... with open tail-light holes (doh) But I began cleaning up the silicone and will hopefully have the new lights in this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Ohh, yea I totally thought it was for the silicone lol. Do you think that stuff will take the rusty looking stuff off chrome wheels? I have a set Im trying to sell, and it would be amazing if they were in perfect condition for whoever bought them? No it wouldn't touch the rust. The Naval jelly and steel wool is you best bet with the wheels I would think. Mek is an industrial solvent. Very powerful at removing grease and such. If you had some on a rag it would have wiped the paint right off the window. I shouldn't have mentioned it though, it's highly flamable and not to be used without the proper care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Is that like lacquer thinner? Ive used that before to remove grease and stuff... Used it on motors that were out of the car to clean them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Here is some info from the manufacturer. Forget about this stuff. View Label (English/Español) View CPSIA Certificate View MSDS View Regulatory Data Sheet M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) (Discontinued) Klean-Strip 100% pure Methyl Ethyl Ketone is a thinner and remover for specified coatings, including polyester and epoxy resins, ink, adhesives and contact cement. It is recommended for use when a rate of evaporation slower than acetone is desired. Not intended for sale or use in California. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Product Number / Size QME71 - Quart GME71 - Gallon CME71 - 5 Gallon Directions for use Follow the coating manufacturer’s instructions for the proper amount of M.E.K. required; do not use more than recommended. IMPORTANT: Carefully read all directions, notes and cautions prior to use. Only use this product as directed on the label. Do not use as a fuel. Do not use for any other purpose. Do not spread this product over large surface areas because fire and health safety risks will increase dramatically. Protect eyes with chemical splash goggles and avoid prolonged skin contact. HELPFUL TIPS: Use only as specified by the coating, adhesive or hobby product manufacturer. Do not use as a general purpose cleaner. M.E.K. may soften or damage plastics, synthetics and many other finishes. Use only where specified, and test an inconspicuous area before application Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I would not use steel wool on the wheels (if they are chrome) I tried that on my calmasters and it kinda scratched them a bit. It DID get the rust off though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Here is some info from the manufacturer. Forget about this stuff. View Label (English/Español) View CPSIA Certificate View MSDS View Regulatory Data Sheet M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) (Discontinued) Klean-Strip 100% pure Methyl Ethyl Ketone is a thinner and remover for specified coatings, including polyester and epoxy resins, ink, adhesives and contact cement. It is recommended for use when a rate of evaporation slower than acetone is desired. Not intended for sale or use in California. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Product Number / Size QME71 - Quart GME71 - Gallon CME71 - 5 Gallon Directions for use Follow the coating manufacturer’s instructions for the proper amount of M.E.K. required; do not use more than recommended. IMPORTANT: Carefully read all directions, notes and cautions prior to use. Only use this product as directed on the label. Do not use as a fuel. Do not use for any other purpose. Do not spread this product over large surface areas because fire and health safety risks will increase dramatically. Protect eyes with chemical splash goggles and avoid prolonged skin contact. HELPFUL TIPS: Use only as specified by the coating, adhesive or hobby product manufacturer. Do not use as a general purpose cleaner. M.E.K. may soften or damage plastics, synthetics and many other finishes. Use only where specified, and test an inconspicuous area before application MEK is some amazing stuff and you can still find it available for sale fairly easily. Be very careful when using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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