RavenTBK Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Right. I've decided that even though I'm broke and almost homeless, it is time to make the oil leaks go away. Hell, if I end up getting evicted, I can live in the newly leak free roo right? Kay.. got me an oil pump install kit on order.. $4.88 from Advance. Supposedly includes new gasket and some random o-rings. Hopefully will be just what I need to kill the slow leak from the gasket and two of the bolt holes there. Putting in for a front main seal tonight.. $12.25 from AutoZone. Both the install kit and main seal should arrive by tomorrow, and should have it all put in and operational by Friday at the latest. The question is this: is changing this thing out as easy as I think its gonna be? 22mm crank bolt; pull pulleys; use small flathead screwdriver to pry out old seal; lube, and press new seal in place; replace pulleys; and 22mm back on till its nice and tight. Sound about right? Is there anything else important I should know about or check while I'm curled up underneath the front end doing this stuff? Cheers Raven --- 1979 GL Wagon... stock and slow.... wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 might want to do the cam covers also , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted March 9, 2004 Author Share Posted March 9, 2004 cam covers... aka valve cover gaskets, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 yes valve covers. Also, it might be a good idea to replace your oil pan gasket if it has oil leaks from there also. I know mine did and it has 375,000 miles on it:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Becareful taking the oil pump out. Part# 10 in the picture is know to brake when taking the pump out of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Yes - rotate the pump while removeing it rather than prying. Be careful..... the crank pulley is 22mm, also a 13/16" will do the trick. I seccond the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. If you gonna be in there - might want to do a valve adjustment too. Pretty easy, and should be done every 15k anyway. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted March 12, 2004 Author Share Posted March 12, 2004 Woohoo! I accomplished all this from 7:30 till 12:30a last night. I took my time and went slow, to make sure I didnt miss anything, and sho'nuff - theres no puddles under the car today, and the oil level is still at the full mark! The crank seal.. it was so farked up. Completely missing the inner lip. The pump gasket was intact, but old and hard. I didnt disassemble the pump, as both screws that hold it together were stripped out, so I installed the new pickup o-ring and gasket and popped it all back together. I'm actually amazed at how easy it was to do all of this. Handful of hand tools, and some towels to clean myself up with every 3 seconds from all the oil slung everywhere in the engine compartment. I bumped the starter to loosen the crank pulley bolt... worked flawlessly... and I put the car in 3rd, and rocked it backwards to torque it back down when I was done. Totally nifty. I'll have to get some degreaser or somethin to clean up under the hood soon before a crapload of dirt starts to stick to all the oil under the hood. Thanks you guys for your help and suggestions! All thats left now is getting the front axles taken care of. Both are popping now.. :-\ Cheers Raven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Just a quick Q on doing the oil pump reseal - is there a specified torque for the pump mounting bolts??? Just did this job on an 88 GL wagon and couldnt find anything about torqueing the bolts when remounting it (haynes and childrens manuals - no FSM yet ) Pump is back in, going to be doing the cam seals as well, as soon as we get the parts, so the front is still torn apart - pump bolts are just snugged down at this time, but if they need to be at a specific torque it can still be done. BTW - Raven, how did you get the pump install kit for $4.88??? was $24.88 at the Advance Auto near me!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted March 15, 2004 Author Share Posted March 15, 2004 Originally posted by heartless Just a quick Q on doing the oil pump reseal - is there a specified torque for the pump mounting bolts??? ... ... BTW - Raven, how did you get the pump install kit for $4.88??? was $24.88 at the Advance Auto near me!!! Torque.. I couldnt find any specific information either. I remembered about how snug it felt when I took it off, so I tightened them down enough that I felt comfortable with it. Not enough to strip the aluminum mind you, but snug enough to where I know it wouldnt fall off the block on its own anytime soon. As for the install kit; its listed at $4.88 for my 79. I havent been around Subarus long enough to know the differences, but I do know you've got something other than an EA71 in your 88, and I dont believe the oil pumps would be the same. To confirm my price, go to Advance Auto Parts, click on Shop online, and search for 0396289. Its a Beck/Arnley part number. Thats the kit which was necessary for my project. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 well, duh...didnt even look at your sig....that explains a lot!! guess those ea71's are even cheaper to maintain than the ea82's are! Thanks for the reply on the torque thing....I did about what you did, and tightened them to what i felt was enough. with any luck it will stay put. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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