bstone Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I think I have a leak coming from the intake manifold or the manifold gasket, so I got another from a local boneyard that also includes an EGR, throttle body and 2 fuel injectors for $75. Not a bad deal! I have gotten everything removed and the intake is loose, but there is a singular bolt that holds on a metal line going from the EGR back to the engine and it just won't budge! I first used a 17mm open wrench but it just succeeded in rounding it. So I banged on a 16mm and it's doing the same. Here's a picture of it: I am about to push it to a shop a few blocks away that is known as a great Subaru shop, but want to see if you all have any ideas first. I've already soaked it in liquid wrench but it just ain't budging. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Clamp onto it with the biggest vice-grips you can and hammer on it with a 4lb drilling hammer. Those are always tight.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Clamp onto it with the biggest vice-grips you can and hammer on it with a 4lb drilling hammer. Those are always tight.... GD Leave it up to GD to provide excellent advice in record time. Why aren't we paying him? I tried that with the vice grips and hammer. Still didn't budge. I'll try again. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Heat it up as much as you can and shock it while hot with penetrant - should break the rust bond. Then clamp the vice grips on so tight it hurts your eyeballs and smack it with the heaviest thing you can find ........ GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 did you try to tap it the other way for just a jolt. Sometimes if you give it a whack the opposite way it will cut your penantrant just a little better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Heat it up as much as you can and shock it while hot with penetrant - should break the rust bond. Then clamp the vice grips on so tight it hurts your eyeballs and smack it with the heaviest thing you can find ........ GD No torch. I'll try to squeeze on the vice like you described and hit it with a hammer. What size nut is that? I guess I should replace it when I finally get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 You can't easily replace the ferrule on those EGR tubes since the tubing is crimped on the end.... you would have to replace the whole tube. I would just clean it up with a file and keep using it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 What about using PB blaster? I find it better than WD-40 or liquid wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 What about using PB blaster? I find it better than WD-40 or liquid wrench. Yeild is the best. PB Blaster is like water by comparison. WD-40 is for Water Displacement - it's no good for corrosion. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Yeild is the best. PB Blaster is like water by comparison. WD-40 is for Water Displacement - it's no good for corrosion. GD GD, what's your favorite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Yield - I use it all the time. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Yield - I use it all the time. GD Link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 It's not easy to procure. I don't know of any retailer that sells it. When I need it I buy it by the case from a former employer of mine that buys it directly from Chemsearch.... it's about $160 a case (12 cans). A while back I did a group buy on the stuff and bought three cases for board members. http://www.chemsearch.com/productDetail.asp?country=USA&language=English&language_id=4&countryName=United+States&pLetter=Y&pName=Yield%C2%AE%C2%A0%0D%0A GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 It's not easy to procure. I don't know of any retailer that sells it. When I need it I buy it by the case from a former employer of mine that buys it directly from Chemsearch.... it's about $160 a case (12 cans). A while back I did a group buy on the stuff and bought three cases for board members. http://www.chemsearch.com/productDetail.asp?country=USA&language=English&language_id=4&countryName=United+States&pLetter=Y&pName=Yield%C2%AE%C2%A0%0D%0A GD Wow, that looks incredible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) OK folks. I tried until I went insane and still couldn't get it. So I pushed her a few blocks over to a shop that does a LOT of Subarus. They tried with blow torches and everything but it's still stuck. The metal line simply won't come out of either the intake or the head. It's simply stuck. The options at this point aren't good. They are: 1) Cut the line and try to weld it together or clamp it together or 2) Take the head off and try to get it out of the head or 3) Replace the head (I have another one in the basement) and the intake (have another in the back of the car) Your thoughts and suggestions, please! Edited July 7, 2011 by bstone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Cut the line so you can work on it on the bench. Find someone with a welder that can weld a large nut to it for turning..... find someone that's studdied in the art of rusty nut/bolt/whatever removal. It will come out - trust me. If you were around here I would have that sucker off in 20 minutes or less. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Cut the line so you can work on it on the bench. Find someone with a welder that can weld a large nut to it for turning..... find someone that's studdied in the art of rusty nut/bolt/whatever removal. It will come out - trust me. If you were around here I would have that sucker off in 20 minutes or less. GD Believe me, GD, I've thought of making a trip up to you many times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Last one I dealt with did the same thing that happened to you. rounded the nut. And I ended up squeezing it so hard with vicegrips I squashed what was left and broke it so there wasn't anything to grab onto anymore... So I cut the pipe in half. Then I slid a big nut over the pipe and welded it to the part that was stuck in the intake. Then I could also use a box end wrench on it, finally that got it loose. Same deal for the head end. Fortunately I had a spare EGR tube laying around that I actually managed in getting off without destroying, but otherwise I'd just have welded the tube back together and called it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 So the underlying issue to this entire event has been a high pitch squeak/hiss, in the form of a vacuum leak. I sprayed so much carb cleaner around the engine to make an elephant die, but I still couldn't find the leak. When I pulled the vacuum line off one of the valve covers the hiss would go away immediately. It seemed to be coming from the area of the passenger side of the intake, so maybe it was a manifold gasket or the intake itself was bad. Instead of paying for the shop to smoke the engine I figured I would just replace the intake and the gaskets and call it a day. No such luck. The shop is going to put the intake back on and then smoke the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 You mean you're just going to bolt it back on without putting new gaskets in? It will definitely leak in that case. Even with the EGR tube on, I bet there's enough wiggle room you could slide new gaskets in. Although, no way really to clean the mating surfaces. And it will probably leak... At this point you really have to replace the gaskets. If you don't care about the egr, the other option is to cut the pipe and just crime the ends off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 You mean you're just going to bolt it back on without putting new gaskets in? It will definitely leak in that case. Even with the EGR tube on, I bet there's enough wiggle room you could slide new gaskets in. Although, no way really to clean the mating surfaces. And it will probably leak... At this point you really have to replace the gaskets. If you don't care about the egr, the other option is to cut the pipe and just crime the ends off. Oh, definitely putting the new intake gaskets on, tho I think the problem might be in the intake itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 Put it all back together, smoked the engine, replaced the leaky hoses and now it's all good. Splendid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 but what happened to the EGR nut / pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 but what happened to the EGR nut / pipe? Nothing. Still stuck. Will deal with it in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 A good flare nut wrench should get that loose. I bought a $35 Matco flare nut wrench just for that fitting on my wagon after I rounded off two sides with a crescent wrench. Cleaned it up with a file and slid the flare wrench on, quick tap with a 3lb hammer and it cracked loose immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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