markjw Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 1992 Legacy Auto Wagon 180K Cured with a simple drain and refill, three times with fresh tranny fluid. I know it's been said a million times to change out the fluid to possibly cure Torque Bind, but I just wanted to ad my two cents. And it was pretty bad TB. Completely gone now. I went with the cheap, house brand fluid at O'Reilly's. Sold in 1 gal jugs for about $15. Coincidentally, a single "drain" drains about a gallon so that was pretty handy to drain a gallon, add a gallon. The last two 4eat's I messed with, I used a much more expensive brand of fluid. Seems the Board Advice is, that's not necessary. Man I love these early Legacy wagon's. For the money, I just don't think there is a better car on the road. Good thing they'r so Ugly, else everybody would want one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 1992 Legacy Auto Wagon 180K Cured with a simple drain and refill, three times with fresh tranny fluid. I know it's been said a million times to change out the fluid to possibly cure Torque Bind, but I just wanted to ad my two cents. And it was pretty bad TB. Completely gone now. I went with the cheap, house brand fluid at O'Reilly's. Sold in 1 gal jugs for about $15. Coincidentally, a single "drain" drains about a gallon so that was pretty handy to drain a gallon, add a gallon. The last two 4eat's I messed with, I used a much more expensive brand of fluid. Seems the Board Advice is, that's not necessary. Man I love these early Legacy wagon's. For the money, I just don't think there is a better car on the road. Good thing they'r so Ugly, else everybody would want one. Steven Likes this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 I found a fluid change like that to definitely alleviate TB and other binding issues like that in a 4EAT. Also try some of that Lucas stuff...with the one I used to own (high miles) the more of that stuff the merrier.... --Damien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Thats always the first step on any sooby tranny issue where the car still moves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) 2001 Forester 108k miles. Manual Tranny. I am getting torque bind now when the car is warm, not when cold. Exactly which fluid should I be changing where? Exactly what is the fluid called I should use? thx. Edited August 1, 2011 by unibrook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 2001 Forester 108k miles. Manual Tranny.I am getting torque bind now when the car is warm, not when cold. Exactly which fluid should I be changing where? Exactly what is the fluid called I should use? thx. fluid change doesn't apply to you, you have to fix the trans by replacing the VC. in a manual transmission the center viscous differential fluid is in a sealed, non-serviceable unit and the fluid is not replaceable. the fluid you drain from the trans has nothing to do with the fluid in the center diff. the auto's and manuals work *completely* differently, they are not related in any way at all. so what applies to auto's does not apply to manuals. in your case there is no cure for torque bind except to replace the center diff with a used or new unit. or wait until it completely fails to permanent locked and remove the rear driveshaft and run it in FWD. or wait until winter...maybe it'll be less noticeable in the cold, or won't matter when the white stuff starts flying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 fluid change doesn't apply to you, you have to fix the trans by replacing the VC. in a manual transmission the center viscous differential fluid is in a sealed, non-serviceable unit and the fluid is not replaceable. the fluid you drain from the trans has nothing to do with the fluid in the center diff. the auto's and manuals work *completely* differently, they are not related in any way at all. so what applies to auto's does not apply to manuals. in your case there is no cure for torque bind except to replace the center diff with a used or new unit. or wait until it completely fails to permanent locked and remove the rear driveshaft and run it in FWD. or wait until winter...maybe it'll be less noticeable in the cold, or won't matter when the white stuff starts flying! Ok, thx for clearing that up for me. Given the expense of replacing the center VLSD, I will probably wait until it gets really irritating, then go this route: "or wait until it completely fails to permanent locked and remove the rear driveshaft and run it in FWD." Is that really doable with no ill side effects? Cuz, I really do not need the 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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