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Just bought an '81 gl wagon


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A friend of a friend of a friend offered to sell me his 81 gl wagon since I had mentioned I was looking for a car, so I searched online, found these forums read a few months worth of posts and realized the value in these vehicles, so I went ahead and purchased it. I paid about $500 for it..

 

Its in rough shape, but the odometer reads only 175,000 miles and the PO says that a rebuilt engine went in and its only at about 60,000 i think, and from what I've read on these forums that's not a whole lot.

Anyway, pics:

[i edited the pics so they don't stretch the page sorry about that, if you click them they will get bigger. Horizontal scrolling is of the devil!]

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qRU8il.jpg

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LP5bYl.jpg

 

I've never owned a Subaru before, but I really find the concept of off-road cars to be awesome. I've owned a few Volvo 740's, they are fun off road but no 4-wheel drive like this thing.

 

Anyway, like I said I have read a lot on these forums so I know a bit about the car now, but would appreciate any advice anyone here could offer to a first time owner of this type of vehicle. I'm a bit mechanically knowledgeable, plus I have a lot of my own tools so I'm not a total nub to this game.

 

By the way the engine runs great, idles like ************ though, and could have a little more power, but it needs a tune up etc. Also the PO said it was only getting about 12 mpg so I should really look into that because from my understanding it should be getting about 20+.

 

Can't wait to get this thing wheelin'.

 

PS sorry about the page stretch these forums don't have spoiler tags IDK what to do to fix it :(

Edited by SCREEAAAWWWWWW
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First things first, do some research on here..

 

The blue thing in the engine bay... Toss it ( after you read up on a Weber swap and get that going :banana: )

 

The weber gives pretty good performance values, not so much economical, but I see over 25mpg with my weber swap.

 

Doesnt look that bad though :) look forward to seeing what you wanna do to it.

 

You got a lift/tire size in mind?

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Yeah, unfortunately I don't think it will pass smog with a weber, however I am interested in doing an SPFI conversion, I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the carb anyway, the PO says he took it to a carb shop and they said it was cracked but I don't know about that.

 

I haven't yet decided if I want to put a lift on it or not but I am definitely going to get new tires for it tomorrow, as well as give it an oil change and tune-up and run seafoam through the fuel system.

 

I think I'm going to keep it mostly stock, because I really like the way the car is designed.

 

 

Oh yeah one more thing, nub question but, where the hell is the oil dipstick on this thing?? I swear I can't find it anywhere...

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Tire size info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117919

 

Oil dipstick: Should be to the right of your distributor IIRC... Like in the front of the engine.

 

As for dual range transmission and passing light. The "Cyclops" eye is really awesome, keep it if you like it :) its pretty awesome.

Dual range is pretty amazing too, probably a 4 speed though... Might wanna have the 5 speed dual range swap if you like the extra gear (its weird for me driving a 4 speed)

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TomRHere is correct, sorry, I was thinking of my EA82 I think, because I swear its up front...

 

Heres the best I can do for a general direction...

 

This is my old EA81... From the front... the left side (when looking AT the engine) is where youll find the dipstick (which might be a little silver or black circular object that has a tube on it if the handle is broken.

 

So itll be on the passenger side of the vehicle as stated... Lets hope this works for ya :banana:

 

 

EA81.jpg

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A couple things:

 

If you don't have time to do the SPFI swap before you need to get it through emissions, a professional reman Hitachi with a new EGR will probably get you through for the time being. You will want to plug the all the vac hoses [Edit-except for the hoses going to the evap canister] for the emissions stuff and leave it in place as a dummy set-up so it looks stock under the hood.

 

The '81 has an external voltage regulator instead of an internally regulated alternator. I highly recommend deleting the external VM and installing a cut-off relay to the fuel pump for when the engine isn't running. There is a thread on the subject posted by RennaisanceMan (if I remember correctly), but I don't have time to locate it right now. Once you do that you can upgrade your alternator and the car will run better.

Edited by ferox
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Tire size info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117919

 

Oil dipstick: Should be to the right of your distributor IIRC... Like in the front of the engine.

 

As for dual range transmission and passing light. The "Cyclops" eye is really awesome, keep it if you like it :) its pretty awesome.

Dual range is pretty amazing too, probably a 4 speed though... Might wanna have the 5 speed dual range swap if you like the extra gear (its weird for me driving a 4 speed)

Yes it is the 4 speed, however I have never swapped a tranny before, but it seems like it should be pretty straight forward on this car, not sure if I'm up for it yet though.

Also my passing light doesn't open up, and I haven't got around to checking if it is vaccuum or electrically operated, but I will definitely need to get that in working order, even though my brush bar kind of blocks it :mad:

EA81 oil dipstick is on the Left rear of engine as you look at it. Just behind the airfilter.

I don't see it in the above pic, so thinking the handle has broke off.

 

TomRHere is correct, sorry, I was thinking of my EA82 I think, because I swear its up front...

 

Heres the best I can do for a general direction...

 

This is my old EA81... From the front... the left side (when looking AT the engine) is where youll find the dipstick (which might be a little silver or black circular object that has a tube on it if the handle is broken.

 

So itll be on the passenger side of the vehicle as stated... Lets hope this works for ya :banana:

 

 

EA81.jpg

Yeah I found it, apparently the original one broke or something because the one on there was just a rubber plug instead of a handle and teh tube was bent off to the side, I thought it was some sort of breather at first until I saw the tube was metal. I even managed to break off the dipstick inside somehow so I had to pull the tube out :( WTB new dipstick

A couple things:

 

If you don't have time to do the SPFI swap before you need to get it through emissions, a professional reman Hitachi with a new EGR will probably get you through for the time being. You will want to plug the all the vac hoses for the emissions stuff and leave it in place as a dummy set-up so it looks stock under the hood.

Yeah my carb definitely has something wrong with it, looks like the flapper for the second barrel is broken, because it just sort of hangs there. Also last night a drove up the mountain to do a little wheeling (at night in a car I don't know too well yet, I'm smart:-\) and all went well until I was heading back and coasting downhill, the engine died even after I restarted it several times and would constantly do this until I gave it gas. I'd really like to buy a re-manufactured carb or at least a rebuild kit but have been looking for a few hours now and can't find anything, if someone could point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

 

The '81 has an external voltage regulator instead of an internally regulated alternator. I highly recommend deleting the external VM and installing a cut-off relay to the fuel pump for when the engine isn't running. There is a thread on the subject posted by RennaisanceMan (if I remember correctly), but I don't have time to locate it right now. Once you do that you can upgrade your alternator and the car will run better.

 

There is already a killswitch installed in the car underneath the dash that cuts off the fuel pump (it is in the worst place though I accidently flick it all the time and wonder why the car is not starting...)as well as a brand new alternator

 

 

 

Also I have one more question, when I am driving anywhere above like 45-50 mph and turn the wheel even slightly it sounds like my front tires are rubbing or something, but they aren't, and I am baffled by what this might be, the alignment seems good and I just put new tires on the front (just swapped them to the back but it didn't make a difference) so :confused::confused:

 

It's a sweet rump roast car overall I'd have to say, I think I have become a subaru lunatic like everyone else here haha.

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There is already a killswitch installed in the car underneath the dash that cuts off the fuel pump (it is in the worst place though I accidently flick it all the time and wonder why the car is not starting...)as well as a brand new alternator.

 

I don't think you are getting my point, but do some research and you will eventually figure it out.

 

The passing lamp is electric, and the solder points on the front of the electric motor probably need to be re-soldered, particularly the green one. Make sure you disconnect your battery first.

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I don't think you are getting my point, but do some research and you will eventually figure it out.

 

The stock alternator isn't on the car, there is a brand new one, and there is a killswitch for the fuel pump installed is that different than a cutoff relay?

I am trying to find the thread you are talking about, I really need to read it because I am unfamiliar with some of these things.

The passing lamp is electric, and the solder points on the front of the electric motor probably need to be re-soldered, particularly the green one. Make sure you disconnect your battery first.

 

I tore into it today and found the green wire, but I can't take the unit out to solder it without taking off the bar and the bumper I think I will do that tomorrow. Also the brush bar on the front blocks the passing lamp so I am going to have to do something about that too.

 

Today I tried to take apart the shifter mechanism and pull the bushing to see if I could find/fab some new ones since the shifter is so damn sloppy, but I couldn't for the life of me get the nut & bolt that holds together with the bushings to break free. I tried spraying some penetrating lubricant on it and I cranked on it but it started to round the nut and the bold head so I stopped, is there some trick to getting that off?

 

Only other real problem I'm having with the car is that the engine stalls when coasting downhill, unless I give it gas constantly but uphill it does fine. It sometimes dies when idling on level ground as well. I'm pretty sure it is the carburetor but I think the timing is off as well because it diesels a little bit every time I shut it off. Why can't I put a weber on in california, this is making me seriously consider moving...

 

 

Here is an pic of the best side of the car in my driveway. I cleaned and sanded the rims, then painted them with flat black rustoleum, everything went better than expected. I plan on painting the brush bar with the same color. Also new tires on the back.

t4pMjl.jpg

 

 

Also does anyone have a passenger side headlight moulding thing that goes around the headlight and has the blinker + running light on it, the silver thing? I would like to buy one. I also need a dipstick since mine snapped off.

 

And the plastic things that go around the interior door handles, I would really like to buy some new ones as well, mine are rotted away (or are they all like that?)

 

Probably a bunch more stuff I can't think of right now.

Edited by SCREEAAAWWWWWW
thought of more stuff I need
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The stock alternator isn't on the car, there is a brand new one, and there is a killswitch for the fuel pump installed is that different than a cutoff relay?

I am trying to find the thread you are talking about, I really need to read it because I am unfamiliar with some of these things.

If nothing has been done to upgrade your charging system then the stock alternator is still the one you have, not the original but the stock alternator. The external voltage regulator will eventually give you problems, but if you have a new alt on there right now you should focus on the carb and take some time to learn about the charging and electrical system before you attempt mods on them. Don't limit yourself to this forum to learn about alternators and automotive electrical. There is a lot of good info on the internet, bad info too, but if you stick with the basics and look at several sources of consistent info, chances are you're learning good info.

 

The fuel cut off switch is not the same as a relay tied to an engine running condition. If you get in an accident and get knocked unconscious, then you won't be able to switch off the fuel pump and gas could be spewing out of a fuel line. The fuel pump will empty your gas tank, most likely under you and the vehicle, and may even supply the ignition spark.

 

 

I tore into it today and found the green wire, but I can't take the unit out to solder it without taking off the bar and the bumper I think I will do that tomorrow. Also the brush bar on the front blocks the passing lamp so I am going to have to do something about that too.
I resoldered mine on the car. In fact I really just re-melted the existing solder. I may have added a little solder, but not much. Just disconnect the battery and you don't have to pull the motor unit to re-solder.

 

 

I'm pretty sure it is the carburetor but I think the timing is off as well because it diesels a little bit every time I shut it off. Why can't I put a weber on in california, this is making me seriously consider moving...
The timimg could easily be off and would contribute to your poor mileage and engine run-on. The anti-dieseling solenoid in the carb could also be faulty (assuming a carter has one). Definitely learn how to check and adjust your timing. It's super easy and super important.

 

The Weber carb upgrade is difficult to tune in to pass emissions in places that allow it, but the Weber is just straight-up illegal in Cali. It doesn't mean you can't use a Hitachi to pass and put the Weber on afterwards. The SPFI swap will fix the issue as well. You will need a different intake manifold either way. Having just acquired the vehicle, the Hitachi swap is probably the easiest option in the near term. After you have learned more about the car, the rest will become more clear.

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Congrats on the subie im sure in time you can get her running well these old beat are fun to work on and we have so much valuable info on the forums! I have been building my 80 wagon for 2 years its been a fun hobby for me. Check all your vac lines when you do a tune up and check tohe timing and ditsy. You should correct the rough iddle. Good luck and welcome to our fam.

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PS sorry about the page stretch these forums don't have spoiler tags IDK what to do to fix it :(

 

edit original post - remove pics, resize them to 800x600 or smaller, and repost them.

 

btw - decent looking old Subie - hope you get the carb issues sorted out and enjoy her for many years to come. :)

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Check all your vac lines when you do a tune up...

 

Excellent point-don't just check them, replace them. For a twenty bucks you can replace all your hoses, just do it one at a time so you don't mess them up. I don't know about the carter carb, but the Hitachi has a small brass pellet in the choke vacuum pull off that needs to be put back into the replacement hose, so check vac hoses from the carb for those pellets (orifice restrictors).

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I didn't get a lot of time to work on it today but I put a new radiator cap on because the original one was old and cracked and I had removed it to flush the radiator and knocked a piece of the old dried rubber seal off of it and when I took it to the lake the day before the radiator was just spewing out through the cap.

I also changed the fuel filter which I had intended to do much earlier and it was a very good thing I had done so because when I removed the old one, it looked super old and had some brown sludge running out of one side. unfortunately it wasn't a transparent one like the new one I put on so I couldn't see how clogged it was but I'm assuming its pretty bad based on what came out of it. I've never seen such a dirty fuel filter before:mad:

 

 

If nothing has been done to upgrade your charging system then the stock alternator is still the one you have, not the original but the stock alternator. The external voltage regulator will eventually give you problems, but if you have a new alt on there right now you should focus on the carb and take some time to learn about the charging and electrical system before you attempt mods on them. Don't limit yourself to this forum to learn about alternators and automotive electrical. There is a lot of good info on the internet, bad info too, but if you stick with the basics and look at several sources of consistent info, chances are you're learning good info.

 

The fuel cut off switch is not the same as a relay tied to an engine running condition. If you get in an accident and get knocked unconscious, then you won't be able to switch off the fuel pump and gas could be spewing out of a fuel line. The fuel pump will empty your gas tank, most likely under you and the vehicle, and may even supply the ignition spark.

I understand what you mean now, that is a good idea and it will be added to "the list" :)

 

I resoldered mine on the car. In fact I really just re-melted the existing solder. I may have added a little solder, but not much. Just disconnect the battery and you don't have to pull the motor unit to re-solder.

I couldn't seem to find a very good angle to solder it at, I also can't get to it underneath because there is a skid plate there.

The timimg could easily be off and would contribute to your poor mileage and engine run-on. The anti-dieseling solenoid in the carb could also be faulty (assuming a carter has one). Definitely learn how to check and adjust your timing. It's super easy and super important.

I'm pretty sure my carb is the hitachi because it has the hexagonal finger-sized anti-dieseling valve pointing towards the drivers side headlight on it, which I listened for the click and it seems to make one so I assume it is in good working order.

The Weber carb upgrade is difficult to tune in to pass emissions in places that allow it, but the Weber is just straight-up illegal in Cali. It doesn't mean you can't use a Hitachi to pass and put the Weber on afterwards. The SPFI swap will fix the issue as well. You will need a different intake manifold either way. Having just acquired the vehicle, the Hitachi swap is probably the easiest option in the near term. After you have learned more about the car, the rest will become more clear.

I'm planning on buying another hitachi from someone on here, one that is in working order, to pass smog. I'll probably switch to a weber after that although the SPFI sounds nice too, just a little more work.

Congrats on the subie im sure in time you can get her running well these old beat are fun to work on and we have so much valuable info on the forums! I have been building my 80 wagon for 2 years its been a fun hobby for me. Check all your vac lines when you do a tune up and check tohe timing and ditsy. You should correct the rough iddle. Good luck and welcome to our fam.

I will do the lines and the timing they are next on "the list." How do I check if my distributor is working correctly? Also thanks :)

edit original post - remove pics, resize them to 800x600 or smaller, and repost them.

 

btw - decent looking old Subie - hope you get the carb issues sorted out and enjoy her for many years to come. :)

Me too!:banana:

Excellent point-don't just check them, replace them. For a twenty bucks you can replace all your hoses, just do it one at a time so you don't mess them up. I don't know about the carter carb, but the Hitachi has a small brass pellet in the choke vacuum pull off that needs to be put back into the replacement hose, so check vac hoses from the carb for those pellets (orifice restrictors).

Really do I just ask at the auto parts store for a set of vaccuum lines or do I have to buy different lengths and width lines and cut them to size?

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most (not all) places sell vacuum line by the foot...if you need more than one size, then buy some of each, doesnt hurt to have extra around. ;)

 

it is sometimes helpful to take "samples" with you so you can match up sizes - bear in mind that the end that is hooked up to something will be stretched slightly larger than the actual size you need.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Cooler than mine? hardly! Your body style is way better... more nimble and less things to go wrong. And you have dual range... I have pushbutton awd. I'm pretty sure your project trumps mine. lol.

 

lets race!

 

 

(lol @ old subarus racing that sure would be boring)

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