What do I do with Sabrina the Subaru? (my 99 Legacy)

[Runfrompenguins]

I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy Brighton, 2.2L. 165k miles Shes pretty beat up and some might consider it a hunk of junk. But I am still in love with my station wagon.

 

Here is the problem. We took her on a trip that involved driving over a mountain pass. After about 10 miles of driving straight up hill I noticed sluggishness, I look down and the temp is all the way over the H. Ever since this incident the car will overheat after about 20 miles of driving.

 

We all suspect it's the head gasket, however the oil looks fine. The coolant reservoir is very stained, but any old car looks like that. It has a new radiator and water pump as of a year ago.

 

The car is really thrashed and I don't even know if it's worth the cost of redoing the head gasket. My questions for you

 

1) Is this 99 Legacy 2.2L the engine with the infamous head gasket problem?

2) How much is a junker 99 legacy worth in parts?

3) Should I rebuild or get an imported replacement engine?

 

Thoughts? This engine has overheated probably 5 times in the past year, so i'm even hesitant on a rebuild.

[Runfrompenguins]

Oh and my last question. Is there any EASY way to really know 100% if it's the head gasket thats causing the problem? The oil looks fine, no coolant in the oil.

[idosubaru]

subaru's don't typically mix oil and coolant when the headgaskets blow so that doesn't mean much.

 

NO, the EJ22 does not have headgasket issues - that's the EJ25.

 

are there any coolant leaks?

has the thermostat ever been replaced?

is it a subaru thermostat?

maybe the thermostat is bad (one board member has a new Subaru thermostat fail last year - themoneypit is his username).

 

if you have to pay a mechanic to do the work then it's probably not worth it. with new headgaskets and a timing component kit (pulleys and tensioner) the car could be good for another 50,000-100,000 miles of inexpensive maintenance - that's a pretty good deal if it's a good fit for you. if you're paying someone to replace the headgasktes then it might not be worth it.

[Rooster2]

The EJ22 can and will blow a head gasket. I had a 91 EJ22 that blew a head gasket. The EJ25 is more likely to blow a head gasket. When the head gasket blows, it allows exhaust gas to enter the cooling system, thus the over heating. It does not break by letting coolant and oil mix.

 

It will idle all day in your driveway without over heating, but drive 10 miles +, and it will over heat.

 

It is hard to say if, or how much damage has been done to your engine by repeated over heating. At 165K miles, I would question the worth of just replacing the head gaskets. You may have warped heads, and main bearing damage. All that is a big question mark. Since you say the car is really trashed, I think I would be reluctant to rebuild.

[Runfrompenguins]

Yes that is a good point I should not do a rebuild there could be more damage to this engine. What do you think about an engine swap from an imported engine?

 

are there any coolant leaks? Well not that I know of but I put water in from time to time, so a very slow one yes.

has the thermostat ever been replaced? about a year ago.

is it a subaru thermostat? not sure

 

I do know before it would overheat when going up hills, but was fine on flat ground. Now it is worse.

 

It's got a new clutch and I like the car a lot. Most subarus in the pacific NW cost 4k just for an old 120+ mileage one!!! So it's not like I can just get another one without many problems for a good price.

[Ricearu]

ask around here for a mechanic that could do it for you. don't take it to a shop.

 

first change the thermostat with a DEALER thermostat and have a look. also autozone rents out a "block test" kit that you only have to buy test strips for. it just tests the coolant for combustion gases. they give you back the money when you return it. you may also be low on coolant, so research "burping" the system and do so. soon.

[uniberp]

It's your chance to be a real do-it-yourselfer.

 

If you can arrange another car for a couple of weeks, and a have a decent selection of standard sockets and hand tools, you can replace the headgaskets in the car, leaving each day's work under a closed hood and parts in a box in the back.

 

The critical thing, of course is getting a good seal on the gasket and tight torque on the bolts. ANd keeping grit out of everything.

 

Set yourself daily goals. Remove timing parts, drop exhaust, and lift manifold day one. Day two remove heads and take them to a shop for opinion/resurfacing. and buy the parts. Take day 3 off. Day four double check clean surfaces and reassemble one side and torque. Day five reassemble the other side and torque. Day six double check your torques and consider what you've done. Don't overtorque. Day 7 devote to the timing gear stuff. Day 8 manifolds, accessory belts, get it back on the road.

 

 

If you're a newbie, each of these tasks will seem formidable, and the nagging doubt that you're doing it right or that you've forgotten something wil haunt you. The Haynes manual will provide perhaps excess detail and confusion, but is necessary. Buy a "click" torque wrench (craftsman is $80).

 

 

[Ricearu]

what he said, just use dealer headgaskets. I have never used fel-pro on a ej at all, and I never will.

[phxmotorelectri]

I've had ALOT of Subaru's and it's always the headgasket.

It's just NOT ALL THAT HARD to fix this.

I have no idea why people make a head gasket repair more complicated than it has to be.

#1 Are there bubbles coming from the radiator when the cap is off and the engine is running? (top it off w/ water until it is at the very top... wait to see if the bibbles keep coming... they will... this is a bad head gasket... DON'T FREAK OUT!

#2 on NA engines you do NOT have to remove the intake manifold. Just remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold each side of the I-M down. Have an extendable magnet ready to help if one drops down.

#3 if it is a SOHC 2.2 or SOHC 2.5 you are in luck. The DOHC meand removing the cams ... all the cams... to reach the head bolts. The SOHC engines are sooooo much easier to do a H-G job.

#4 assuming it's a sohc continue with the following.

#5 after removing the 8 12mm small bolts that hold the intake manifold get under the car and remove the exhaust manifold bolts (leave one on to hold up the exh pipe up untio the o2 sensor is disconnected) and the 14mm bolt that holds the exhaust pipe up. This bolt is about 3 ft downwind of the "y pipe".

#6 disconnect the o2 sensor connector.

#7 let the exh pipe drop out of the way.

#8 remove radiator

#9 use a 22mm socket and a breaker bar to loosen the main pully. Use this proceedure: Lay breaker bar on the metal where the radiator once was... on the DRIVERS SIDE...

#10 disconnect the plug wires from the coil pack.

#11 turn starter motor with the key for ONE QUARTER SECOND... the main pully nut will come right off.

#12 remove the belt covers... remove tensioner and bottom pass-side timing belt pully... remove belt PLEASE MARK IT 1st w/ fingernail polish or whatever you like... new belts come with nice white lines to help reinstall it correctally. If the belt is good there is nothing wrong in reusing it.

Now is the time to look for oil leaks. If there are leaks replace all the seals AND the O-RING inside the oil pump. It comes off easily and the o-ring is easy to replace. If it is leaking and the seals all look good this o-ring is the cause. I ALWAYS replace it because it always leaks eventually.

#12 remove the 6 head bolts with a "deep 14mm 12 point 1/2" drove socket. If you don't have one... buy one! At this point only one or two head bolts will slide all the way out. Keep the other bolts in place and let the head drop out the bottom. It sometimes takes some wiggling but it always come out the bottom without trouble. Even the DOHC heads come out with just a bit of wiggiling.

TAKE THE HEAD TO BE MACHINED. 20-40 dollars for each side is a fair price.

 

It will take LONGER to take the heads to be machined than it takes for the entire job!

 

#13 clean the block surface with emery cloth and brake-parts cleaner. The intake manifold gaskets are very high quality. They do not need to be replaced. Maybe your will need to be but I've done this job over 100 times and I've never needed to replace the I-M gaskets once.

 

#14 If the heads have adjustable rockers then make sure the exh valves are not too tight. The DOHC head is a problem because only with the right bucket shims can the valves be adjusted. It's hard to do this adjustment w/o an array of shims in front of you.

 

Subaru heads are normally well made and do NOT need a total valve job done to them. I've seen 300k miles on original heads. But shops will insist you need new seals and etcetcetc.

Just make sure the valves are adusted right espetially the exh valves. Hint: if a piece of paper can pass between the valve and the rocker then there is enough room. It will work fine for years.

 

#15 Put the head back on. Do it this way:

put the head bolts back into the head

put the head gasket in place

slip it into place from under the car.

it helps to have a person help with this step

after it is in place tighten it in 4 passes.

very gently tighten it more and more with each pass. Start in the middle and use a X pattern working outward.

 

If the belt is new and the waterpump is new (no "play" in the bushing means it's fine).

 

#16 I ALWAYS check each and every timing belt pully. Take it off and spin it. Listen for silence (means its perfect... if it sounds dry then oil it w/ a few drops of oil and keep spinning it until it gets quiet. If it feels rough and/or makes a dry rough sound then PLEASE replace it. I always pick up a hand full of these pullies when at the wrecking yard. If they sound and feel right they will last for years. You do not have to always buy a costly pully kit if you inow how to check the sound and feel of them.

 

Often the head gasket goes within a year or two of having a complete timing belt and water pump job done. In this case just replace the headgaskets and reuse all the parts. I like the Felpro gaskets. To use a multi layered steel gasket is fine but the thicker Felpro will give you better sealing if the machine shop hasn't left a perfect "mirror finish".

 

I always use ehx gasket sealing paste on the exh manifold gasket when reassembling the exhaust pipe. It assures you will have a quiet engine.

 

One last point: if the valve cover gasket isnt soft now is the time to replace it. Bit the bullet and pay the 35 dollars. You will be happy when there are no oil leaks. And the new v-c gaskets last about 10 years.

 

A head gasket job on all sohc Subaru's is actually very easy after you do it once. You do not have to make it into a costly major production. Paying more money does not get you a longer lasting car. And a head gasket job is always simple, cheap and looooong lasting if you do it inthe manner described.

 

Many shops will violently disagree with this method. They are wrong. It does not have to be complicated or costly. Subaru made it easy to do this repair. Why make into a big costly production?

BTW: every car I've ever done this to is still on the road and doing fine. (actually there were a few that got into accidents years after the repair was done... these cars are not still on the road... but doing a H-G job this way works well and its quick and it saves money)

 

I've yet to see a cracked head or a cracked or warped block. Don't fall for shop's scare tactics.

Just replace the gasket,

machine the head,

check for valve adjustment - (mainly the exh valves will get too tight

every 100k mi. but check them all to be sure)

check the pullies for sound and feel

replace the tensioner if it has never been replaced

AND... don't worry... the engine will last and last and last... with just this simple repair.

#7

[Subruise]

wow man, thats a heck of a first post. welcome to usmb! i like the write up, esp. sizes of tools to use etc. whens the book coming out? keep em coming

 

 

 

RV

[Fairtax4me]

Head gasket problems are not as common on the Ej22 as they are on the Ej25, but they can and do fail from time to time. I have one that has a failed head gasket.

 

Check other simpler things like the coolant level, radiator cap, thermostat before condemning the head gaskets.

[Runfrompenguins]

I've had ALOT of Subaru's and it's always the headgasket.

It's just NOT ALL THAT HARD to fix this.

I have no idea why people make a head gasket repair more complicated than it has to be.

#1 Are there bubbles coming from the radiator when the cap is off and the engine is running? (top it off w/ water until it is at the very top... wait to see if the bibbles keep coming... they will... this is a bad head gasket... DON'T FREAK OUT!

#2 on NA engines you do NOT have to remove the intake manifold. Just remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold each side of the I-M down. Have an extendable magnet ready to help if one drops down.

#3 if it is a SOHC 2.2 or SOHC 2.5 you are in luck. The DOHC meand removing the cams ... all the cams... to reach the head bolts. The SOHC engines are sooooo much easier to do a H-G job.

#4 assuming it's a sohc continue with the following.

#5 after removing the 8 12mm small bolts that hold the intake manifold get under the car and remove the exhaust manifold bolts (leave one on to hold up the exh pipe up untio the o2 sensor is disconnected) and the 14mm bolt that holds the exhaust pipe up. This bolt is about 3 ft downwind of the "y pipe".

#6 disconnect the o2 sensor connector.

#7 let the exh pipe drop out of the way.

#8 remove radiator

#9 use a 22mm socket and a breaker bar to loosen the main pully. Use this proceedure: Lay breaker bar on the metal where the radiator once was... on the DRIVERS SIDE...

#10 disconnect the plug wires from the coil pack.

#11 turn starter motor with the key for ONE QUARTER SECOND... the main pully nut will come right off.

#12 remove the belt covers... remove tensioner and bottom pass-side timing belt pully... remove belt PLEASE MARK IT 1st w/ fingernail polish or whatever you like... new belts come with nice white lines to help reinstall it correctally. If the belt is good there is nothing wrong in reusing it.

Now is the time to look for oil leaks. If there are leaks replace all the seals AND the O-RING inside the oil pump. It comes off easily and the o-ring is easy to replace. If it is leaking and the seals all look good this o-ring is the cause. I ALWAYS replace it because it always leaks eventually.

#12 remove the 6 head bolts with a "deep 14mm 12 point 1/2" drove socket. If you don't have one... buy one! At this point only one or two head bolts will slide all the way out. Keep the other bolts in place and let the head drop out the bottom. It sometimes takes some wiggling but it always come out the bottom without trouble. Even the DOHC heads come out with just a bit of wiggiling.

TAKE THE HEAD TO BE MACHINED. 20-40 dollars for each side is a fair price.

 

It will take LONGER to take the heads to be machined than it takes for the entire job!

 

#13 clean the block surface with emery cloth and brake-parts cleaner. The intake manifold gaskets are very high quality. They do not need to be replaced. Maybe your will need to be but I've done this job over 100 times and I've never needed to replace the I-M gaskets once.

 

#14 If the heads have adjustable rockers then make sure the exh valves are not too tight. The DOHC head is a problem because only with the right bucket shims can the valves be adjusted. It's hard to do this adjustment w/o an array of shims in front of you.

 

Subaru heads are normally well made and do NOT need a total valve job done to them. I've seen 300k miles on original heads. But shops will insist you need new seals and etcetcetc.

Just make sure the valves are adusted right espetially the exh valves. Hint: if a piece of paper can pass between the valve and the rocker then there is enough room. It will work fine for years.

 

#15 Put the head back on. Do it this way:

put the head bolts back into the head

put the head gasket in place

slip it into place from under the car.

it helps to have a person help with this step

after it is in place tighten it in 4 passes.

very gently tighten it more and more with each pass. Start in the middle and use a X pattern working outward.

 

If the belt is new and the waterpump is new (no "play" in the bushing means it's fine).

 

#16 I ALWAYS check each and every timing belt pully. Take it off and spin it. Listen for silence (means its perfect... if it sounds dry then oil it w/ a few drops of oil and keep spinning it until it gets quiet. If it feels rough and/or makes a dry rough sound then PLEASE replace it. I always pick up a hand full of these pullies when at the wrecking yard. If they sound and feel right they will last for years. You do not have to always buy a costly pully kit if you inow how to check the sound and feel of them.

 

Often the head gasket goes within a year or two of having a complete timing belt and water pump job done. In this case just replace the headgaskets and reuse all the parts. I like the Felpro gaskets. To use a multi layered steel gasket is fine but the thicker Felpro will give you better sealing if the machine shop hasn't left a perfect "mirror finish".

 

I always use ehx gasket sealing paste on the exh manifold gasket when reassembling the exhaust pipe. It assures you will have a quiet engine.

 

One last point: if the valve cover gasket isnt soft now is the time to replace it. Bit the bullet and pay the 35 dollars. You will be happy when there are no oil leaks. And the new v-c gaskets last about 10 years.

 

A head gasket job on all sohc Subaru's is actually very easy after you do it once. You do not have to make it into a costly major production. Paying more money does not get you a longer lasting car. And a head gasket job is always simple, cheap and looooong lasting if you do it inthe manner described.

 

Many shops will violently disagree with this method. They are wrong. It does not have to be complicated or costly. Subaru made it easy to do this repair. Why make into a big costly production?

BTW: every car I've ever done this to is still on the road and doing fine. (actually there were a few that got into accidents years after the repair was done... these cars are not still on the road... but doing a H-G job this way works well and its quick and it saves money)

 

I've yet to see a cracked head or a cracked or warped block. Don't fall for shop's scare tactics.

Just replace the gasket,

machine the head,

check for valve adjustment - (mainly the exh valves will get too tight

every 100k mi. but check them all to be sure)

check the pullies for sound and feel

replace the tensioner if it has never been replaced

AND... don't worry... the engine will last and last and last... with just this simple repair.

#7

 

Wow thanks for an amazing post. I am bookmarking this thread so that someday I might attempt this. I have done quite a few DIY projects in the past and the thing that always limits me is tools and the frustration of hard to reach bolts. I love working on cars but someday I dream of having my own lift

[Runfrompenguins]

How do I know if it's a SOHC 2.2? My manual says the 2.2 Liter model is either the EJ221, or the EJ223. I really hate non specific manuals

[Fairtax4me]

All 2.2 engines this side of the big pond are SOHC iirc. The engine code isn't really all that important.