subinewby Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 So my 83 coupe is hard to shift into gear sometime and I tighten the clutch cable and it seems to help for an hour or so but my pedal is getting pretty tight the gear oil level is fine, and more and more lateley when i start my car it seems to want to keep turning over but not starting right away, any suggestions? Thanks. Also are turbo brat springs a little bit bigger than regular EA81 stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I tighten the clutch cable and it seems to help for an hour or so Sounds like its stretching and its about to go... Mine was doing something similar, I had to keep adjusting it once a month till it popped. Another thought is that you are not tightening the adjustment lock nut enough, or its just missing... when i start my car it seems to want to keep turning over but not starting right away This could be a choke issue, when its still cold, set it and check to see its closed. Also if your leaking fuel from the float bowl and its bout empty when you go to start it it wont fire till it gets some fuel in it. You might look under the bowl for leaks and check the fuel level in the sight glass while you check the choke (Hitachi). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subinewby Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I always make sure the lock nut is tight but ya I was tinkin the cable might go soon, and I've got a webber where exactly should I look. Excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge lol. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I dont know which Weber/choke you have but Im sure they adjust the same unless its a manual. If its a manual choke it should be real easy to figure out. Still need to check it while cold 1st make sure its closing. Youll need to pop the top to check the fuel level in the bowl, if its pretty low after sitting its leaking. One other thought for you is your starting procedure, now that the weather is warmer you may be pumping the pedal a couple times and its flooding it a little? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 You need a new clutch cable NOW. It will break and if you don't know how to drive it without the clutch you will be towing it home. The carb issue is probably a choke issue. Turbo springs are not much different - little bit stiffer perhaps but almost unoticeable. If you want to drop in sometime I can advise on these little issues. I have a shop in West Linn - just south of Portland. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subinewby Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) Thanks GD I might take you up on that ,and ya I had a cable go out on an 84 sedan I had years ago and it wasnt fun but I figured out just when to shift n start it in gear from stoplights n stuff. I think Ill replace that today. Wasn't sure if the turbo springs might give me another inch of lift but doesnt sound like it would make a difference. Edited July 10, 2011 by subinewby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 When you replace the cable: 1. Get it from the dealer - they are much higher quality 2. Route it under BOTH the steering shaft and the heater core hoses. 3. '83 is a cross-over year for clutch cable type. Make sure you know which one you have. The older style has a clamp with a single bolt to secure the sheath on the pedal end while the newer style has the same type of setup on the pedal side as it does on the transmission end - using a horseshoe clip to secure the sheath. It is important that you buy the right cable - if you have the older style ask for a cable for an '82. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Let's hope its the cable guys. I also know that of the pivot ball for the clutch fork will eventually wear through the fork causing it to crack, which makes it seem like a cable too. I went through the trouble a few years ago replacing the cable and it didn't fix the issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subinewby Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Thanks guys I'll make sure its the right one I dont have much money right now Ill have to wait till next weekend to get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subinewby Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) [/img][/img] so I dont see a metal sheath at the end in the engine does it look like the older one? There is one bolt on the back of the pedal and there is a clamp at the engine end. Edited July 10, 2011 by subinewby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Yes - that's the older style. You need a cable for an '82. Your cable is improperly routed over the steering shaft and the heater core hoses. That's the reason for it's failure. Someone didn't know what they were doing. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Yes - that's the older style. You need a cable for an '82. Your cable is improperly routed over the steering shaft and the heater core hoses. That's the reason for it's failure. Someone didn't know what they were doing. GD Would the routing possibly be the way it is (incorrect) because the car is lifted?? I ask because I'll be most likely helping with the new cable install. I think the engine crossmember is spaced 3". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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