Rpm90001 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Got a question on rear brakes on a 2000 legacy sedan. I have a problem with both sides. Both sides the outer pad no longer contact the rotor. The outer surface is rusted from no contact. Both sides are the same way. The inside surface shows normal ware. I have them all apart now, the slides were very smooth and grease was clean. No binding. The pade were tight in the clips, but I still think they should of moved with the pressure of of the system. The only thing I did notice was there was no shims, just pads. I did read some other post and got my manual out and it does show shims used on the back of the pads. Could this be a issue? I'm sure they were not the oem pads and rotors. Any suggestions? George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Hrmm.. did the caliper itself move freely when you put it back together without the pads on it? the pins may look clean, but how did the inside of the caliper where the pins go in look. Since you have to replace the pads (you are doing that right.......) get a good set of pads, I go to autozone and by the best, and check for clearance. Since the pads are self cenetring (brake calipers float, as it is like a vice, the piston pushes out and pulls in the other side at the same time hance the term floating) it really should not matter. I say the calipers are seized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) Nipper, I have not put them back together yet, I'm hitting everything with a brass wheel to clean them up and then going to paint them black to try to keep them from rusting..I live in the north east and NY loves to salt the roads. Pins were bright gold in color, and when I cleaned the old grease out of the caliper bracket also smooth and clean. The pins moved very freely when I took them apart. My first thought was they were sized also, but I don't see how, all the pins were free and clean. I have done many brake jobs, and never seen the slide pins that were different. The Subaru pins were 2different pins. 1was a solid pin and the other was a solid pin with a black plastic bushing on the tip. When I took them apart I did not pay attention to the orientation because they are normally the same pin. Do you happen to know if the pin with the bushing goes on the top or bottom? I will add some pictures of the rotors tomorrow, I think I'm missing something.. Should I have the shims that the manual shows? I don't think that is the problem, but you never know.. Mine did not have any shims This is my first Subaru. Thanks Geo Update.. I found out what pin goes where, the one with the rubber bushing goes on bottom. Found it here on USMB. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82176 Edited July 10, 2011 by Rpm90001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 The slider is one bolt, then there is another slider at the bottom. Remeber a pin goes into a hole. The hole needs to be cleaned out. First use brake cleaner get out all the grease. Then use fine sandpaper, rip some off, roll it up, and clean the hjole untill everything slides very easily. This is where they usually get hung up when the pin looks fine. I live on Long Island so i KNOW what salt is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Everything is surgically clean. Brake clean, then long electronic q tips. They are spotless.. Boots were in good condition, also cleaned. Brass wheel cleaned them up pretty good, I have always used black high temp gas grill paint to protect them a little, works well. Just not pretty. Got to love NY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Ive done all that, you need emery paper to get in the hole, that usually clears it up for good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 When I got my 98 I had a similar thing. The slides are fine, the caliper isn't frozen. But the pads were so tightly stuck in the slides I had to pound them out with a BFH, completely destroying the slides. I had to get the slide kit from NAPA with is stupid expensive for little pieces of bent metal Just be sure to use a good synthetic brake grease where the pads slide, where the piston contacts the pad, and where the other side of the bracket contacts the outer pad. I usually pull my brakes apart once a year after winter and re-grease them. Living in Maine I get terrible salt, it freezes everything up something wicked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I found out the hard way mine were frozen when towing a trailer. Made for really scary hard stops. The pads dragged just enough to keep the rust off the rotors. Thats my ritual tooI rotate the tires once a year, in the spring, and go around lubriating the pins and all the hinges etc that were exposed to winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 thanks, i do think the pads were a little tight. I too had to pry them out. I just bought rotors and thurma quiet pand and a large jug of fluid and caliper grease. I got everything for 94 bucks! Used a promo code i found on line and got 40 dollars off 100. And picked them up in the store 20 minutes later. I will post how i made out when i get done. Im out in the middle of a lake now enjoying the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 thanks, i do think the pads were a little tight. I too had to pry them out. I just bought rotors and thurma quiet pand and a large jug of fluid and caliper grease. I got everything for 94 bucks! Used a promo code i found on line and got 40 dollars off 100. And picked them up in the store 20 minutes later. I will post how i made out when i get done. Im out in the middle of a lake now enjoying the day. Isnt life grand. With modern technology you ordered all that stuff in the middle of a lake. I wonder if they have a fish finder app? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Every set of pads for my subie have needed grinding to slide freely in the holders. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 actualy ordered on line from home, picked them up on the way to the cottage. Still pretty cool to sit here on the dock and keep up with usmb! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Every set of pads for my subie have needed grinding to slide freely in the holders. Dave I agree... I think the rust that develops on the caliper brackets actually decreases the clearance available for the pads. I used to try to clean the slots, etc on the caliper, but then I wised up and just took a grinding wheel to the ends of the metal tabs on the pads. Some brake grease on them helps them slide really nice. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Well I got 1 side finished, new pads were very tight. Took a very fine file and cleaned the edges of the tabs on the pad. Got them so there was some light drag, but solid in the clips. I could not finish the passenger side due to a defect in the rotor. There was a large chunk out of the inside lip of the rotor. How this could get past quality control is beyond me. I will have to finish it up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hmm, interesting. I've never had a problem on subarus getting the pads to slide freely. I always take the slides off, clean the bracket itself until it's shiny, clean the slides up very well, and put grease on everything. Yes, that means between the slides and the bracket too. Never had an issue with them not sliding. If for some reason they don't your slides are bent or something. I had that once, straightened them out, and they were fine. You should never have to grind the pads. I have had to pull the shims off on some brands to make them work though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rpm90001 Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 No shims with the new pads, I used a brass wheel on the the caliper bracket, super cleaned the hardware seat area, used new hardware kit and pads were very tight. There was crappy castiing marks that cleaned up with the file. Had the same problem with my truck. I used thurma quiet pads on both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I am not sure about you guys, but here in central /eastern NY, I could never get the bracket anywhere close to shiny using wire brush, chemicals, etc. The clips, I could always get nice and clean, but the whole caliper and bracket assembly develops a nice thick brown rust texture to it. Also, over time, the somewhat thin backing plate splash shield behind the rotor rots away, usually in stages... Oh, the joys of salt and snow.... Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 i took apart the rears on my most recent project, 98 obw ej22 swap, and the pads were a little tight and rusty. so i lubed the slide pins and put the pads on the bench grinder, wire brush only, on the edges of the steel plate. when i put them back together they seemed a little loose. are loose pads a problem?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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