mayesdl Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I need help with my 1993 Loyale. Sometimes it will not start, just clicks like a weak battery. It seems to be getting worst. 1) I checked the wiring and cleaned the battery cables. Removed the cables to the starter and cleaned and checked. Made no difference. 2) I removed the starter and replaced both contacters and the center plunger. No difference. 3) I replaced the bottom side, the electrical part of the ignition, I thought for sure this would be the fix. Same problem. The starter seems not to be getting enough amps to start??? If I keep clicking usually in a couple of minutes it will start find. The battery is strong. I do not know where to look next. Anyboby have any ideas????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 maybe your ignition switch at the column. I know the contacts in the switch can wear out. Also, check the harness connection at the ignition for corrosion or bad wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 The Starter has a Set of Carbon Contacts inside that Wear by Normal Use, once those gets very Worn, they make the Problem you Have: The Starter Clicks Few Times and Gets Worse. I Kindly Suggest you to Take out the Starter and send it to a Service Shop to do its Needed Maintenance, wich includes a New Carbon Contacts' Set and Grease the Bearing. ...or Try to do the Maintenance by yourself: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/engine-starter-repair-how-to-fix-the-carbon-contacts Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 The main battery cable to the starter may have internal corrosion. Try bypassing the wire using a jumper cable to see if that changes things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for your help. I have replaced the electrical side of the ignition switch. Checked all the cables for corrision and making sure they are tight. I have not replaced the cables. I have replaced the starter contacts. No difference in starting. Is there a safety switch between the key switch and the starter? It just seems like something is wearing out like a electrical switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 There is a safety switch used and it depends which type transmission is used. If you think the safety switch is the cause then check the voltage on the small wire running to the starter solenoid. It should have 12 volts on it when the key is in the start mode. You can also bypass the lead with another one and touch it to 12 volts to see if that makes the starter work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 I checked the small wire going to the starter. It does not have 12 volts about 1 volt. That means it is back up foward the ignition switch. How do I check the neutral switch? Can I bypass this switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 You can bypass the switch to confirm that is the trouble but I wouldn't run it that way since it is a safety feature. Usually just cleaning the switch contacts or adjusting it fixes the trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 Just wanted to update on the subaru. The transmission is not shifting so I have it parked in the front yard under a tree. Trying to find parts to put it back on the road. Once I get it going I will pickup with the starting problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Do you mean the shifter won't come out of the PARK position? If so then there is a manual override you can use to release it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 The shifter moves find, it does not shift in drive or 3rd when in drive. Manually or in drive it will shift from 1st to 2nd but not 3rd. This is a 3AT. I did a separate post on this problem. It also just clicks when trying to start. Checked all wiring and cleaned, replaced the contacts in the starter, replaced the ignition switch. Checked the neutral safety switch and seems ok. Getting voltage accross when starting wires on the switch. I just run a wire from the battery to the starter solenoid and starts evertime. I know I can add a relay and a push button switch to start but I would like to find the problem and fix it right so I can start by turning the key. It has to be a senser or wire somewhere that is telling it not to start. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 Went back out this morning while ccol to see the old subaru would start. Just click! I checked the voltage on the connector going to the solenoid and get 10+ volts. I next wired around this plastic connector to see if it could be in the connector. Just click! I decided to turn the engine a little to see if that made a difference. Just click! I just can't understand why it starts when I apply 12v from the battery directly to the soleniod and will not start when 12 v are applied by way of the connector? It would seem if a switch or something like the neutral safety switch would stop the voltage to the stater. It does not! The best I can tell the distributor clicks when I try to start in the normal way. Could there be something in the distributor that is keeping it from starting sometimes? Sometimes it will start right up the normal way(key not using wire from battery). May be the distributor stops in a certain place? I don't know! I am ready to sale!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeryst Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 I'm having this same exact issue with starting. I replaced the starter and something a little different happened. I drove it around for pretty much a whole day after I replaced the starter, and it started okay. Then, it did the same exact thing, and I couldnt get it to start at all. I left the car sit overnight, and when I went out in the morning, it started right up. It seems to have something to do with heat, since it wouldnt start when hot, but started right up when cool. Surely someone knows exactly what this is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 I did a test yesterday with a volt meter. I checked to see if the starter had any voltage on the solenoid with it unplugged and turning the key to start. It did not. That rules out a starter problem. Next I ran a wire between the starter soleniod and the plastic connector going to the starter solenoid so I could measure the amps easier. The most I get when trying to start with the key is about 142 - 150 amps. When I unplug from the plastic connector and touch this wire to the positive battery post and start I get about 198 amps and it starts right up. I am going to have my battrery checked today. Then I can rule that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 ... Could there be something in the distributor that is keeping it from starting sometimes? ... I Believe Not, but if the "Click" Sounds came from around That Area, let me ask This: Have you Checked for Worn Fusible Links? Also there could be (Hiding Around) a Worn Relay, Did your subie has had an Alarm? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayesdl Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 starting clicking problem solved. I can hardly believe this but it was the battery. The battery was only holding about 200 amps. So, when I applied directly from the battery post to the solenoid it would start. When I ran through the key switch and other switches and relays the amps would drop to around 145 to 150, not enough to kick the starter in. The battery tested bad! The guy at Sears said the battery dropped to 7 volts. Put a new battery in and it starts right up everytime. I have never had a battery do this belore. This was a new one on me. I guess we learn something new everyday. Many thanks to all you that made suggestions and helped. I would not have found it without you. This is a great website!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superbrat84 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 hey if it happens again replace you're battery terminals i had the exact same problem. I had terminals where they dumped hot solder in the hole then just stuck the wire in the hole. well there was a lot of corrosion deep inside the negative terminal that you couldn't even see. so i replaced it and it fixed it. oh and autozone claimed the battery was bad too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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