nbrown Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Ok, new guy needs some help. So here I was, just trying to toubleshoot a cooling problem I've been having and I noticed that on of my CV boots was torn and grease was everywhere. I decided I should probably fix that. I followed my Haynes manual until I got stuck at removing the steering knuckle. I read a few threads on here about it including ed rach's tech manual. There was a lot of info there and I followed most of it but I'm relatively inexperienced and felt some photos would have been nice in order to follow the procedures. Here is a picture of where I'm at: So what do I need to do to get the axel off from here? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 the original axles generally last a really long time. i've put 50,000 miles on broken boot and clicking front axles. i don't recommend it, i'm just saying it's not an emergency. stay out of sand and coal dust though, that will chew them up quick. not all old gen stuff is the same, so tell us what vehicle you got/what you're working on. most likely an EA and it's been a long time for me since they've all rusted away around here , so i'm going to let someone else comment on the particulars of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbrown Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 ha! don't I feel like an idiot. Its a 91 Loyale. Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Let me Kindly Suggest you This Writeup, it Might Help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118248 Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbrown Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thanks for the info. That will be helpful after I am able to get the axel out. I am just trying to remove the steering knuckle. Does it just slide off the shock? (Let me see if I can post this picture) Thats what I'm looking at. Where to go from here? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbrown Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Ugh. I can't get the picture to work. But if you right click it and say Open in New Tab you can see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 No, the Pic isn't Working... Try copy the Pic in its Site / Paste it Here. Or Copy / paste the Entire IMG Code. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbrown Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) Lets see of this works. http://www.flickr.com/photos/65117564@N05/5932561476/ I should also mention that I think I've started to understand my next step. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I need to slide the knuckle off the shock tube. Problem is, its not budging. Suggestions? Corrections? Thanks. Edited July 13, 2011 by nbrown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 ok, have you popped the knuckle off the lower ball joint? do that then get out your favorite implement of persuasion, spread the pinch gap open a little and tap it off. good luck, RV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 You do not need to take the strut out of the knuckle. Take the bolts out of the control arm where it bolts to the frame. I take of the sway bar bolt to. Loosen but do not remove the strut tower nuts under the hood. Put a good piece of wood against the axle and hit it with a hammer. Then you can pull out on the knuckle assembly to pull the axle out of it. You do not need to take the control arm off the lower ball joint if you do it the way I described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbrown Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 RV, that's what I was doing this morning with no success. It moved a little and I mean A LITTLE. Millimeters. Couldn't find a way to get any leverage so I was just banging on it with a mallet. I'll give it some more tomorrow. Desert, I'll try that. The axel can almost come out all the way from the transmission and I was trying to arrange the pieces to be able to get that last little bit. I'll try your method and see how it goes. Thanks to you both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 I ended up using a Tie Rod puller to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. tried a fork tool, BFH, and anything else I could find in the toolbox. the tie rod puller worked great. like this one LINK Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superbrat84 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 for all the expense and trouble to replace the boot you might as well replace entire axle autozone has for 60 dollars and boots will cost at least 40-50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 for all the expense and trouble to replace the boot you might as well replace entire axle autozone has for 60 dollars and boots will cost at least 40-50. Where in the world are you buying your axles boots? $40-50 for some rubber boots, clamps, and some grease, that's NUTZ! Rockauto.com has them for about $8 + shipping. WAY cheaper than a new axle. Also, autozone, well most reman axles, suck. So if you have a good working axle that just needs a boot, it's way better to reboot what you know is ok than than take a risk and get a bum axle, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 I get the EMPI boots for $12 each locally. So $24 for a single axle - $48 for both front axles vs. about $130 for two brand new EMPI axles. I don't reboot them very often unless they it's obviously a recent failure and the axle is otherwise sound. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbrown Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Thats what my situation was. Recent tear in the boot so I figured I could spend $10 on a boot rather than replace the whole axle. I got it all in there and put the clips they included on. Sort of. Tight as I could get them without some special tool or whatever I need to get them on there super tight. I am gonna try the zip tie method now. Thanks everybody for the suggestions and assistance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Hose clamps although more expensive then zip ties work well to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phxmotorelectri Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 replace the whole half shaft... do NOT just put a new boot on. In 6 months you will see why. OR better yet do what the otherguy said: just grease it everymonthor two until it begins to make noise while turning. HEN replacethe half shaft. Replacing only the boot and it will still start"clicking"within 6 months. I would put it off until it "clicks"... grease it w/o fixingthe boot will makeit last 6mo ... a year... maybe 2 years. dont worry about it if you grease it and it does not click yet. Dont fix it if it isnt broken yet. And a bad boot is just as hard to fix as replacing the whole half shaft. relax its not serious until it clicks...and even after it starts tyo click it will take 6mo to a year until it gets bad enuff to have to replace... then do both sides and NEVER worry about it again for the life of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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