coolskaterkid Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 So today on way home from work smelled oil burning got home at it was dripping pretty good from the timing belt cover front left side of motor if looking at it from the front of car. Is this the oil pump going south or possibly cam seals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 oil pump is near the center - oil filter attaches to it... if it is off to one side, it is probably a seal gone kaput. Pull the outer covers off to try to get a better look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Cam seal. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 does the timing belt usually get affected when oil gets on it, should i just replace everything while im in there, i think it has around 50k on this belt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 if the belt is saturated with oil (as it sounds like it might be) then YES change the belt, and all other seals in that area - in fact, do a full timing service and be good for many miles. there are some decent timing kits on ebay with everything you will you need including water pump, idler pulleys, seals - get a kit, do the service and run worry free for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 i took of the passenger side cover belt is dry and it looks like its coming more from the middle and was seeping to that side, belt looked dry from there i need to get something so i can take the crank pulley off and get to the rest of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Belt is usually fine - the oil runs down behind the covers. Cam seal, crank seal, or PS pump. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 if the belt is saturated with oil (as it sounds like it might be) then YES change the belt, and all other seals in that area - in fact, do a full timing service and be good for many miles. there are some decent timing kits on ebay with everything you will you need including water pump, idler pulleys, seals - get a kit, do the service and run worry free for a while. Speaking of those ebay timing kits... i'm buying mine in the morning Now I did one for my EJ22 and I had no issues at all.. but with the DOHC should I use the belt with the kit? I know I have to go get a water pump gasket tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 The ebay belts are fine for the DOHC. Use Anaerobic for the water pump - throw the gasket away. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 The ebay belts are fine for the DOHC. Use Anaerobic for the water pump - throw the gasket away. GD No gasket at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Did I stutter? . NO GASKET. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 check to see of the oil pressure sensor under the alternator is leaking all over the place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Did I stutter? . NO GASKET. GD :-\ sorry I asked to be 100% sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 so it is running down behind the passenger side cam, belt is dry and in good shape. Will be replacing soon thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Question for GD: The Permatex instructions say it will fill gaps of up to .050" or so when used with a primer ("activator"). Any idea how/if it works on large gaps without the primer? Not that it applies to the water pump (nice machining there), but I can see some places where the surface may not be that flat (i.e. oil pan). BTW: I was really considering using the nice gasket that came with my Aisin water pump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) You don't need the primer. That's just a copper spray.... .050" is a HUGE gap..... questionable to even use parts that fit that poorly..... think SBC oil pan . For a water pump you are talking about a machined flange against another machined flange. There should be .001" or less gap to fill unless one of the robots was drunk or on strike that day. For the oil pan..... well I hear you on the gap being probably larger there. Probably not much more than .005" in any one place though. I recently used Anaerobic on a Nissan 30DE (300 ZX) oil pan and I've been under it way too much and the oil pan (and everything else for that matter) is perfectly dry. . I would not hessitate to use the anaerobic sealant for an EJ oil pan. I use it for oil seperator plates and such all the time. I have actually completely replaced 100% of the liquid gasket needs on Subaru's with it and it has not failed me yet. I like it because it has an infinite shelf life and won't dry up if you leave the cap off. Plus cleanup is less messy, and it is just generally a friendlier product to use. GD Edited July 22, 2011 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 :-\ sorry I asked to be 100% sure... "throw the gasket away" wasn't clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) "throw the gasket away" wasn't clear? That's my definition of 300%... if you ask the same thing several times and you get the same answer each time And I do it very often GeneralDisorder (corrected!): that was exactly the answer I wanted to hear... I already have most parts to start the rebuilding and a tube of ultragray, but I was waiting for someone to convince me to go with the anaerobic Edited July 23, 2011 by jarl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 I have a tube of ultra grey seems pretty pointless now that I have the anaerobic stuff.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 I see a lot more power steering pumps needing reseal than cam seals leaking. Also, I use the grey metalic gasket that comes with most good quality water pumps or the factory water pump gasket. I see no need to use a silicone here this gasket works great and is a lot easier to change out when its time for a new water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 my cam seals on my Ej22 were leaking bad and so was my PS pump.. it would never hold the right level cold or hot. oddly as it is my EJ25 does hold the right level at both temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 yea mine is defiantly the cam seal, in the timing belt kit it looks like it comes with 4 cam seals. Is this for the rear seals on the back side of the engine or am i missing somthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 yea mine is defiantly the cam seal, in the timing belt kit it looks like it comes with 4 cam seals. Is this for the rear seals on the back side of the engine or am i missing somthing lol no the rear seal on the back of the engine is like 4 times larger and if it's not leaking then no need to touch it since it hardly ever leaks.. it's really the rear oil separator plate cover that tends to leak. but in a timing belt kit depending on the kit and your motor a DOHC kit should at least have 4 cam seals and at leak one crank seal that goes where the crank pulley is.. just take it easy and don't gouge the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 If you are looking at the Misumoauto timing kits, they come with 4 seals indeed, even for the SOHC engines. People around here will suggest you to discard them and use OEM seals, though. They are quite cheap at 1stSubaruParts anyway. Rockauto carries a kit to re-seal the power steering pump. I got mine from them and although I have not installed it yet the components seem to be of decent quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Rockauto carries a kit to re-seal the power steering pump. I got mine from them and although I have not installed it yet the components seem to be of decent quality. nice I was too chicken to think I would be the first to buy them and find that they would of been too cheap. nice to know if I ever need them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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