1-3-2-4 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 When lifting it tends to tilt forward right? I'm sure I can find something to hook around it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 When lifting it tends to tilt forward right? I'm sure I can find something to hook around it A lot of that depends on how you hook onto it. If you use a chain to attach to the motor, you can hook the engine lift hook onto a certain link and get the right "balance" But again, it really isn't that big of a deal, you can move the motor around pretty easily by hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 No need for a leveler anyway. These motors are relatively light. There are a couple spots on the motor that are actually meant for lifting points. I personally wouldn't lift from the intake manifold, but that's just me I Yeah I don't want to lift from that area too I think someone posted where the lifting points were before I'd have to check a little later.. head is pounding.. I also know some people say to take the intake manifold off before you take it out and some people lift by it... So anyone know about the shins for the exhaust valves? More like how do you measure and find out the replacement shim you need? Is it subtracting the gap and the current installed shim? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 A lot of that depends on how you hook onto it. If you use a chain to attach to the motor, you can hook the engine lift hook onto a certain link and get the right "balance" But again, it really isn't that big of a deal, you can move the motor around pretty easily by hand Hopefully my late uncle has something in the basement he was a linesmen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 I was looking in the haynes manual last night, now people say the shims falls right out but haynes says you need a tool to push down on the bucket to remove the shim but turning it? Also anyone that has the haynes manual can someone tell me what's on page 2A-7 & 2A-8 since someone ripped it out when i got the book new. The way haynes says to find the new shim is a little confusing.. they say Exhaust valve S= (V +T) - 0.010 inch T = Thickness of the old shim V = Valve clearance measured S = Thickness of the new shim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 The lower nut on the starter (or bolt for 99+) can be a pain though usually is no trouble with a deep socket and 6" extension. Just get far enough back to clear the body of the starter. The biggest pain is the driver's side lower bell-housing nut. They are often REDICULOUSLY tight and are directly in front of the axle. Often I have to use 24" of extension, a wobbly (or wobbly socket), reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" and a 1/2" breaker bar to get them loose. GD I was reading over at 2.5RS and they have a topic on removing the engine but someone made a good point, and I figure I would ask you.. would removing the driver's axle off the transmission stub help any? If everything is still the same one is a nut and the other is a bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 I was looking in the haynes manual last night, now people say the shims falls right out but haynes says you need a tool to push down on the bucket to remove the shim but turning it? Also anyone that has the haynes manual can someone tell me what's on page 2A-7 & 2A-8 since someone ripped it out when i got the book new. The way haynes says to find the new shim is a little confusing.. they say Exhaust valve S= (V +T) - 0.010 inch T = Thickness of the old shim V = Valve clearance measured S = Thickness of the new shim that makes perfect sense to me add actual measured clearance and the old shim together then subtract the 0.01 in (recommended clearance?) to get the required thickness of the new shim... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 yeah I slept on it and woke up this morning and I understand now, I forgot to pick up a micrometer last time I was out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 How much does a thermostat run at the dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 would removing the driver's axle off the transmission stub help any? If everything is still the same one is a nut and the other is a bolt?yes it helps a little bit. give it a try first. if it's not rust-welded in place it'll come out with normal tools and a tiny bit of patience. levelers are helpful but not necessary. more helpful on installing than removing so you can get the perfect angle and line everything up. thermostats are $8-$12 at the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 I think someone said a wobble socket helps too but I will check when I get to that point.. I gotta go out and buy the chain this morning.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 i've done them without wobble sockets more than with, but they do help. you know what you're doing, you'll figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 I'm I'm sure it will be easy.. speaking of bolts has anyone ever used Koil? having said that it seems like all these timing belt kits all come from CA lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) Time for the rock auto order... New plug wires, front oxygen sensor, gaskets came around $168 Decent kit.. at least it has markings on the timing belt.. Next week I will get the oxygen sensor and spark plug wires.. the shipping costs where getting just too high coming from 3 different locations.. I did buy a new flywheel. Edited August 5, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 seems good nice they include a thermostat gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) 21 lbs Edited August 6, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 for those that ordered the amazon KSB04 clutch kit is the shipping time really 5-8 days? might be a good time to try amazon prime.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I just wrapped up this job. Valve adj is not hard at all. Label everything! With the heads off measure valve clearance. Use a good micrometer and measure the installed shim. My ships still had the size marked on them. Subtract or add the diff. The Haynes manual has a listing of shims with subaru numbers. Order your shims put in new shims and double check cleara-ce. Not hard. i had two tight exh valves and one sloppy intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 yeah I was reading over your thread and I'm sure it will be easy enough when I have the motor in front of me to look at. I printed out the whole FSM so I should be well covered on specs and what to seal.. only thing that has me a tad confused is the cam caps the arrows they point to is it just a single thin line horizontal top and bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 That got me too. As with any engine, arrows always point to the engine front. Shims pop out of bucket with a pick or tweezers. If your shims are still marked, write numbers down THEN wipe them off. Those numbers wipe right off. Most of my intake were .009 one was .010. The exhaust were all right on except for two, they were both .008. I couldn't believe the cap bolts took such little torque 90 in lbs. They are! I still tweaked the inside bolts a little more. It was alot of measuring, checking and double checking, but not hard. Hell, if you exhaust is measuring .008. Spec calls for .010. And the shim is a .025. Then you need a .023. Simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Oh man what I men to say/add in was the sealant for the caps they say not to add to much to block the oil passageways. in the FSM it's depicted as this unless the line is showing going straight then going around the hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 As I understand, and did, the sealer goes outside the cap. I put a blob down in that valley where the cap meets the valve cover. That's where the old stuff was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Ah ok, Wed my valve cover gasket and slave cylinder and intake manifold gaskets should be here. I'm right now trying to find a torque wrench that measures in in pounds I think the lowest one of mine goes down to is 5 Ft pounds. besides I don't think most Tq wrenches are really that on point at a low setting like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Interesting today I could not get the clutch to slip much at all today only a tiny bit when going WOT in 3rd it slipped for about a second.. I hope all that massive slipping is not what I think it is.. as far as it being the seal on the transmission since I don't want to put too much into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 (edited) hey the valve clearance for the EJ25D is: Intake: 0.20 Exhaust: 0.25 Is that right? That number above sounds very large.. I'm looking in my FSM under On car services under engine specifications. *edit haha forget it forgot that's in mm Edited August 8, 2011 by 1-3-2-4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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